3.4 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (part#s n pics)

My valve covers have been leaking since I bought the 4Runner at 333K miles and I was able to get by with tightening the accessible bolts every few months. Now at 344K and a long road trip ahead of me, it's time to fix them.

My leaks were at the back of both heads at the cam plugs. The cam plugs are circular metal plugs (similar to freeze plugs) with a rubber coating. There is one in each head. But these are NO simple matter to replace unless you are mechanically inclined. The upper/center intake manifold must be removed to gain access to the driver's side which includes disconnection of several vacuum, electrical and coolant lines. I'm not trying to scare you, I encourage everyone to do their own maintenance.

Required Parts
2-Valve cover gaskets Buy Felpro Valve Cover Gasket Set VS 50422 R at Advance Auto Parts
6-Spark Plug Grommets (included in above kit)
16-Washer seals (Toyota pn 90210-05007)
2-Camshaft Plugs (Toyota pn 11188-62010)
The 4 half moon pieces are aluminum and should not require replacement, only removal and reseal. If you need them (Toyota pn 11183-62010)
PCV Valve Buy Beck/Arnley PCV Valve 045-0297 at Advance Auto Parts
PCV Valve grommet Buy Beck/Arnley PCV Valve Grommet 039-6428 at Advance Auto Parts
The intake gaskets are reusable.



I started by draining the coolant.

Then removed the hood for easy access. Takes 2 minutes


Take a few pics before dis-assembly



Remove intake hose from air box to throttle body

Remove all hoses, cables and wires from intake manifold

Remove 6 bolts securing upper manifold to center manifold


Remove 5 bolts securing center manifold (one more on driver side bracket)


Now you can remove the 16 valve cover bolts on both valve covers



To remove the cam shaft plugs located at rear of both intake cams, remove two 10mm bolts and gently remove bridge with pliers.


Locate the 4 half moon pieces, one on front and rear of both heads, remove with pliers.

Clean all sealing surfaces and be sure to remove all debris.

Now to concentrate on the valve covers.

Remove 6 spark plug grommets, valve cover gaskets and PCV valve and grommet. Clean them up with some Purple Power.

Reassemble with new parts and be sure to use sealant on cam seals and half moons.

Not bad looking for 344,000 miles! Royal Purple FTW! Been running it for the past 11k miles.

PCV valve was pretty shady as you can tell from the oil film in the intake manifold.


Here's the menacing cam plug removed


Install tomorrow

looks great for 344k! i hope mine looks that good at 243k, my gaskets are starting to seep too. thanks for the writeup!

Good progress on your how-to!

It's all back together and so far, so good.

I let my valve covers soak in Purple Power then pressure washed them off. Considered painting them but decided I like the factory look. And it would add another day to this project.

The spark plug grommets got hammered in with a 34mm socket. Note the small tab that needs to be bent back for removal, knock them back down after install.


I used a generous amount of High Temp Copper RTV on the cam plugs and half moons. And a lil dab on the corners of the outer bearing caps (12 ft-lbs).

After the valve covers get negotiated into position you'll notice it doesn't sit down all the way. It's caught on the spark plug grommets. Simply run your finger around the inside of the grommet while slightly pressing down on the cover. Once in place snug all 8 bolts to where they just do touch the cover. Working from the center outwards, bring them all down a few threads at a time until it's sitting flat and all bolts are at 52 in-lbs (hand tight). Should see a gap like this

The intake manifold install is revers of removal. Be sure to clean the mating surfaces. I had quite a bit of oil on the gaskets. Torque to 13ft-lbs and reconnect everything. Refill coolant and run engine to operating temp. Look and listen for leaks. If none, then good job. Enjoy the lack of burnt oil smell!arty:

Great write up. Thanks

Very nice DIY write up there. Time, more than anything, can be one's enemy on this job.

To make the new spark plug seals seat easier, just put a dab of grease on the inner lip.

Cool write up! I referenced it but let the dealer do it.

Awesome write-up! Just bookmarked for future use... Thanks!

Just thought I'd follow up after a few days of driving. Still no leaks. Now I'm down to the one leak at my T-case. My wife's Forester XT also had a slight oil leak. I removed and cleaned the PCV valve and lines and gave em a good cleaning. If it's not that then it's time for a new turbo. Anyone got a spare VF34 STi turbo laying around?

Just bought a 1999 4runner with leaky valve covers

Just to see if the bolts were LOOOOOOSE....I tightened the ones I could get access to and was turning, and turning, and....

So, this weekend, guess what I'll be doing? :rtfm:

Thanks for the GREAT write up and I'll post again, after the job is done.
Yes, replace the plugs also, if you doing this job.

- chuck

1999 Toyota 4runner Limited 152,000 when "new"
1999 Isuzu Rodeo, totaled Replaced by the 4runner

Drivefastandswerve said:

Just to see if the bolts were LOOOOOOSE....I tightened the ones I could get access to and was turning, and turning, and....

So, this weekend, guess what I'll be doing? :rtfm:

Thanks for the GREAT write up and I'll post again, after the job is done.
Yes, replace the plugs also, if you doing this job.

- chuck

Click to expand...

how did it go?

So what all truly needs to be replaced when doing this. I realize alot of the extra stuff you did was just for reassurance for possible future failure. Do the camshaft plugs really need to be replaced?

Thanks a ton for this! Mine have started leaking at 106K miles, so I'm gonna be doing this soon with a friend! Much appreciated!

Question: Should I try and get OEM valve gasket seals or are the ones from any auto shop "good enough"? I would prefer all OEM parts, but if it doesn't matter much, then I won't.

Anyone have a part #, perchance, for the OEM seals, to compare costs?

farmerjon said:

Thanks a ton for this! Mine have started leaking at 106K miles, so I'm gonna be doing this soon with a friend! Much appreciated!

Question: Should I try and get OEM valve gasket seals or are the ones from any auto shop "good enough"? I would prefer all OEM parts, but if it doesn't matter much, then I won't.

Anyone have a part #, perchance, for the OEM seals, to compare costs?

Click to expand...

Here's the PN for the 2 OEM valve cover gaskets, 11213-62020. I paid $25 for both at the dealer.

Looks like Jon already has the PN's for the other needed gaskets.

4RUN0326 said:

So what all truly needs to be replaced when doing this. I realize alot of the extra stuff you did was just for reassurance for possible future failure. Do the camshaft plugs really need to be replaced?

Click to expand...

x2, i need to replace my gaskets as well but living on my own means i have a very limited budget. Not trying to cut corners but If i can just replace the valve cover gaskets and no other gaskets ill be good. That is if it takes care of the weeping...

Great work and thanks for supplying the part numbers.

Same engine and 344 K miles? Does it burn oil?

Stockwell45 said:

Here's the PN for the 2 OEM valve cover gaskets, 11213-62020. I paid $25 for both at the dealer.

Looks like Jon already has the PN's for the other needed gaskets.

Click to expand...

Thanks Stockwell45! Much appreciated! I'll probably go with OEM, just because I prefer it. :juggle:

Does buying one of the above part number get you TWO gaskets? For example, here:

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~gasket~cylinder~head~cover~no~2~11213-62020.html

I can't tell if I get 1 or 2? I'm guessing, based on what you paid from the dealer, that you do...

farmerjon said:

Thanks Stockwell45! Much appreciated! I'll probably go with OEM, just because I prefer it. :juggle:

Does buying one of the above part number get you TWO gaskets? For example, here:

11213-62020 - OEM Toyota GASKET, CYLINDER HEA

I can't tell if I get 1 or 2? I'm guessing, based on what you paid from the dealer, that you do...

Click to expand...

No, that is just for one. Both left and right are the same gasket, same PN.

Actually after looking at my receipt, looks like they were $18 each, so $36 for both.

Stockwell45 said:

No, that is just for one. Both left and right are the same gasket, same PN.

Actually after looking at my receipt, looks like they were $18 each, so $36 for both.

Click to expand...

ahh, okay. That makes sense then. Gonna check the price at the dealer, the parts website I linked wants $12 to ship ONE gasket. Crazy. Thanks Matt!