Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

Ditto - Thanks for the guide Antman! Made my first oil change painless. I followed your gospel and ground off the skid-plate tabs and used Anti-Seize on all screws (but the drain plug). I can already foresee the benefits of these on the next change!

The factory oil plug gasket seemed stuck to the oil pan - even trying to nudge it off with a screwdriver didn't budge it. I left it on and re-used it - so far no leaks...

On the topic - I have a '13 SR5 4x4. I changed the factory oil @ 3700 Miles (after the initial break-in), and noticed the oil was rather dark for only 3700 Total Miles. Not black, but way darker that I'd suspect Full-Synthetic should be on a brand-new motor with 3700 Miles. I babied it for the first 500 miles (per the manual), and I have been somewhat hard on it after the first 1000 Miles.

This is my first brand-new vehicle (thus my first brand-new oil-change "post break-in") - is this normal for a new motor? Does Toyota add some break-in additive from the factory?

Thanks for settling any concerns I might have :lookout:
 
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Randyman... said:
Ditto - Thanks for the guide Antman! Made my first oil change painless. I followed your gospel and ground off the skid-plate tabs and used Anti-Seize on all screws (but the drain plug). I can already foresee the benefits of these on the next change!

The factory oil plug gasket seemed stuck to the oil pan - even trying to nudge it off with a screwdriver didn't budge it. I left it on and re-used it - so far no leaks...

On the topic - I have a '13 SR5 4x4. I changed the factory oil @ 3700 Miles (after the initial break-in), and noticed the oil was rather dark for only 3700 Total Miles. Not black, but way darker that I'd suspect Full-Synthetic should be on a brand-new motor with 3700 Miles. I babied it for the first 500 miles (per the manual), and I have been somewhat hard on it after the first 1000 Miles.

This is my first brand-new vehicle (thus my first brand-new oil-change "post break-in") - is this normal for a new motor? Does Toyota add some break-in additive from the factory?

Thanks for settling any concerns I might have :lookout:
Click to expand...

Here ya go Randyman:

Toyota runs and cycles all engines before initial installation with a specific type of oil. It is then checked, drained, flushed and refilled with the regular Toyota synthetic. It is already "broke in", whatever that means.
Oil color does not mean anything nowadays. Now, if it had water in it that is a different story.
Changing at 3,700 miles is a waste of time and money even for the most severe duty. I have already pulled a 4,400 lb trailer 2K and my truck has 3K. I will change at 10K per manual. I put 60K+ on my 2011 SR5 and had no issues with 10K changes. Filter change is most important.

Rest assured that unless you are a world class chemical engineer or you are racing the thing through the Baja the manual should be trusted. Most people second guess the OEM engineers on oil because it is the only thing left they remotely understand about modern engines.

Good luck and if you want to know more go to bobistheoilguy website.
 
Thanks 1E - I knew my desire to change the factory oil @ 3700 miles was a bit over-zealous - I just wanted the peace of mind knowing whatever remaining break-in remnants were flushed away with this change for the remaining 6300 miles. I do plan on adhering to the 10K OCI from my 10K mile oil change forward.

I was concerned about the color as I've never seen oil quite this color - looked like it had additives in it - not just plain synthetic oil. Not a milk-shake by any means (no water) - but didn't look like traditional carbon blow-by either. I'll take your word this is normal, and check the color again @ 10K (since I now know what color the oil was when I put it in / Mobil1 0-W20 :) ).

As you were :cool:
 
Randyman... said:
Thanks 1E - I knew my desire to change the factory oil @ 3700 miles was a bit over-zealous - I just wanted the peace of mind knowing whatever remaining break-in remnants were flushed away with this change for the remaining 6300 miles. I do plan on adhering to the 10K OCI from my 10K mile oil change forward.

I was concerned about the color as I've never seen oil quite this color - looked like it had additives in it - not just plain synthetic oil. Not a milk-shake by any means (no water) - but didn't look like traditional carbon blow-by either. I'll take your word this is normal, and check the color again @ 10K (since I now know what color the oil was when I put it in / Mobil1 0-W20 :) ).

As you were :cool:
Click to expand...

I did the same thing. I changed mine at 2100 miles and put Castrol Edge 0W-20. I have also attached the oil sample report from the "break-in" oil and of course the wear metals are high but at least I feel better knowing that the contaminates have been removed. I am sure you can run it 10k before your first oil change but I am old school and like to make sure that I do everything I can to prolong the engine. The copper and molybdenum are from parts seating and the silicon and sodium are traces left from the casting process. So We will see over time.
 

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Dad's Toy said:
I did the same thing. I changed mine at 2100 miles and put Castrol Edge 0W-20. I have also attached the oil sample report from the "break-in" oil and of course the wear metals are high but at least I feel better knowing that the contaminates have been removed. I am sure you can run it 10k before your first oil change but I am old school and like to make sure that I do everything I can to prolong the engine. The copper and molybdenum are from parts seating and the silicon and sodium are traces left from the casting process. So We will see over time.
Click to expand...

Likewise....did about the same. 3,000 miles 6 months for first change. 5,000 miles and 6 months for second and last free oil change performed by dealership just completed. The 6 months or xx,xxx miles has me perplexed. The extended miles I could live with. The time/warranty issue is :wtf:
 
Biggcrisp said:
Likewise....did about the same. 3,000 miles 6 months for first change. 5,000 miles and 6 months for second and last free oil change performed by dealership just completed. The 6 months or xx,xxx miles has me perplexed. The extended miles I could live with. The time/warranty issue is :wtf:
Click to expand...

I guess I am missing something. My first service at 5,000 miles only consisted of a fluid check and tire rotation. Is it a dealer dependent thing?
 
Dad's Toy said:
I guess I am missing something. My first service at 5,000 miles only consisted of a fluid check and tire rotation. Is it a dealer dependent thing?
Click to expand...

Rest assured that unless you are a world class chemical engineer or you are racing the thing through the Baja the manual should be trusted. Most people second guess the OEM engineers on oil because it is the only thing left they remotely understand about modern engines. Per 1ENG.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE INFORMATION
It is especially important to both routinely check your vehicle’s engine oil level (once a month) and regularly replace the engine oil and oil filter (see the Maintenance Log section of this booklet to determine how often you should change your vehicle’s oil and filter). Failure to do so can cause oil starvation and or oil gelling, which can result in severe damage to your vehicle and require costly repairs that are not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
• If at six months you have driven less than 5,000 miles, you should obtain maintenance at six months - don’t wait until 5,000 miles
Be sure to keep an eye on your mileage so that you obtain maintenance when recommended. If you are a low-mileage driver, mark your calendar to remind yourself to obtain maintenance every six months
Special Operating Conditions
In addition to standard maintenance items, the maintenance log indicates services that should be performed on vehicles that are driven under especially demanding conditions. These “special operating conditions” and their required maintenance items are clearly indicated in each chart.
Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
Lubricate propeller shaft 3 Re-torque propeller shaft bolt 3
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1. Per the manual.
 
Biggcrisp said:
Rest assured that unless you are a world class chemical engineer or you are racing the thing through the Baja the manual should be trusted. Most people second guess the OEM engineers on oil because it is the only thing left they remotely understand about modern engines. Per 1ENG.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE INFORMATION
It is especially important to both routinely check your vehicle’s engine oil level (once a month) and regularly replace the engine oil and oil filter (see the Maintenance Log section of this booklet to determine how often you should change your vehicle’s oil and filter). Failure to do so can cause oil starvation and or oil gelling, which can result in severe damage to your vehicle and require costly repairs that are not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
• If at six months you have driven less than 5,000 miles, you should obtain maintenance at six months - don’t wait until 5,000 miles
Be sure to keep an eye on your mileage so that you obtain maintenance when recommended. If you are a low-mileage driver, mark your calendar to remind yourself to obtain maintenance every six months
Special Operating Conditions
In addition to standard maintenance items, the maintenance log indicates services that should be performed on vehicles that are driven under especially demanding conditions. These “special operating conditions” and their required maintenance items are clearly indicated in each chart.
Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
Lubricate propeller shaft 3 Re-torque propeller shaft bolt 3
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1. Per the manual.
Click to expand...

Facetious maybe?
 
1engineer said:
Here ya go Randyman:

Toyota runs and cycles all engines before initial installation with a specific type of oil. It is then checked, drained, flushed and refilled with the regular Toyota synthetic. It is already "broke in", whatever that means.
Oil color does not mean anything nowadays. Now, if it had water in it that is a different story.
Changing at 3,700 miles is a waste of time and money even for the most severe duty. I have already pulled a 4,400 lb trailer 2K and my truck has 3K. I will change at 10K per manual. I put 60K+ on my 2011 SR5 and had no issues with 10K changes. Filter change is most important.

Rest assured that unless you are a world class chemical engineer or you are racing the thing through the Baja the manual should be trusted. Most people second guess the OEM engineers on oil because it is the only thing left they remotely understand about modern engines.

Good luck and if you want to know more go to bobistheoilguy website.
Click to expand...

Which maintenance manual? The one that came with the truck when new from Japan in late 09 that said change oil every 5k miles or the revised one Toyota USA sent me later when they started the free 2 year free maintenance plan that said 10k oil changes?

The OEM engineers sure changed their tune on that one.....or was it the bean counters ? :whipping2

Just giving you a hard time!!! lol :pimp:
 
harper7 said:
Which maintenance manual? The one that came with the truck when new from Japan in late 09 that said change oil every 5k miles or the revised one Toyota USA sent me later when they started the free 2 year free maintenance plan that said 10k oil changes?

The OEM engineers sure changed their tune on that one.....or was it the bean counters ? :whipping2

Just giving you a hard time!!! lol :pimp:
Click to expand...

Dude there have been so many people giving me a hard time OSHA is making me install a handrail so they don't get pushed off lol. You knew what was right with no manual lol in fact I think YOU wrote it! Otherwise why would it be so convoluted haha! Good to hear from you your old stomping grounds are cold right now!
 
harper7 said:
Which maintenance manual? The one that came with the truck when new from Japan in late 09 that said change oil every 5k miles or the revised one Toyota USA sent me later when they started the free 2 year free maintenance plan that said 10k oil changes?

The OEM engineers sure changed their tune on that one.....or was it the bean counters ? :whipping2

Just giving you a hard time!!! lol :pimp:
Click to expand...
so true!
 
Thanks!

I was getting ready to do my first oil change today and was laying under my 4Runner... completely baffled as to where everything was. I did some searching and was still pretty lost.

Your post was exactly what I needed! It is now bookmarked so that I can refer to it when my next oil change rolls around.

Thanks, again!

-Joel
 
GreyhoundGuy said:
I was getting ready to do my first oil change today and was laying under my 4Runner... completely baffled as to where everything was. I did some searching and was still pretty lost.

Your post was exactly what I needed! It is now bookmarked so that I can refer to it when my next oil change rolls around.

Thanks, again!

-Joel
Click to expand...

Yep, and with 16 000 kilometers oil changes, you have the time to forget about the steps taken to do the change! I'll take a quick look here before undergoing my second oil change just to be sure.
 
Awesome write up! Thanks for taking time Antman, the pictures were of great help:hatsoff:

Just did my 10k oil change (Dealership did my first change oil at 5k) There is just something different I noticed with my 2012 4runner sr5, it has a 14mm drain plug bolt instead of 15mm (still wondering why its 14mm).

Also noticed metal particles in the oil filter canister

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/25569820@N00/8626047530/" title="DSC03842 by audigy88, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8626047530_27116b53bc_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="DSC03842"></a>

is this normal?
 
audigy88 said:
Awesome write up! Thanks for taking time Antman, the pictures were of great help:hatsoff:

Just did my 10k oil change (Dealership did my first change oil at 5k) There is just something different I noticed with my 2012 4runner sr5, it has a 14mm drain plug bolt instead of 15mm (still wondering why its 14mm).

Also noticed metal particles in the oil filter canister

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/25569820@N00/8626047530/" title="DSC03842 by audigy88, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8626047530_27116b53bc_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="DSC03842"></a>

is this normal?
Click to expand...

New-ish truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about the shavings. Clean them out and look for them in the next oil change. My oil drain plug is 14mm as well.
 
audigy88 said:
Awesome write up! Thanks for taking time Antman, the pictures were of great help:hatsoff:

Just did my 10k oil change (Dealership did my first change oil at 5k) There is just something different I noticed with my 2012 4runner sr5, it has a 14mm drain plug bolt instead of 15mm (still wondering why its 14mm).

Also noticed metal particles in the oil filter canister

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/25569820@N00/8626047530/" title="DSC03842 by audigy88, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8626047530_27116b53bc_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="DSC03842"></a>

is this normal?
Click to expand...

I had those too at my first 5k mile oil change, I cleaned them out and have not had them again since. Just did my 35k mile change a few weeks ago and still no more particles.

My guess is that they were there when your 5k change was done but the dealer just did not take the time to clean them out. probably did not even look in the canister, just popped a new filter in and moved on. Or maybe did not bother to actually change the filter at all.
 
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limamike said:
New-ish truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about the shavings. Clean them out and look for them in the next oil change. My oil drain plug is 14mm as well.
Click to expand...

vicpick58 said:
I had those too at my first 5k mile oil change, I cleaned them out and have not had them again since. Just did my 35k mile change a few weeks ago and still no more particles.

My guess is that they were there when your 5k change was done but the dealer just did not take the time to clean them out. probably did even look in the canister, just popped a new filter in and moved on. Or maybe did not bother to actually change the filter at all.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I will definitely check on the next change oil
 
vicpick58 said:
Or maybe did not bother to actually change the filter at all.
Click to expand...

Yep, I got that same suspicion when I did my first at-home oil change. The filter housing was on there but good; I just about broke it off trying to get it loose. It finally unscrewed, but man, I couldn't believe how hard I had to work to get it off. I suspect it had never been off before. And I also had to literally chisel my drain plug gasket off the oil pan. It had likely never been touched before either. I would be a hundred dollars that my dealer had never gotten under the skid plate at all, just drained the old oil, and put new oil in. Never again...
 
Davemon said:
Yep, I got that same suspicion when I did my first at-home oil change. The filter housing was on there but good; I just about broke it off trying to get it loose. It finally unscrewed, but man, I couldn't believe how hard I had to work to get it off. I suspect it had never been off before. And I also had to literally chisel my drain plug gasket off the oil pan. It had likely never been touched before either. I would be a hundred dollars that my dealer had never gotten under the skid plate at all, just drained the old oil, and put new oil in. Never again...
Click to expand...

Not saying that they did or didn't do the work, but I just did my 50,000 mile oil change ( I change the oil in this 4runner religiously at the 10,000 mile interval) and I had to pry the drain plug gasket off the oil pan, luckily I had just ordered a bag of replacements. Also, my oil filter housing is always tough to get off and it is torqued to specs at every oil change.

I will say this is by far the worst vehicle I have ever owned to change the oil in, Toyota could have done a MUCH better job with the filter placement. Someone please come up with a viable filter relocation kit, that is affordable please!!
 
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