Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Just a suggestion. Check the rotors. I did the tundra swap a year ago and do light driving a few mikes to work. Felt a similar thing you described and it turns out the rotors are warped. It's what I get for for buying from Napa and not toyota
 
calithirteen said:
Just a suggestion. Check the rotors. I did the tundra swap a year ago and do light driving a few mikes to work. Felt a similar thing you described and it turns out the rotors are warped. It's what I get for for buying from Napa and not toyota
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Thanks for the suggestion. I do have Toyota rotors, but maybe I got a bad one. It is possible. I think I'll take them off in and have them turned then.
 
All rotors on our vehicles are known for warping. Even the tundra and 4th gen guys. It kind of sucks but man what can you do. So far so good on my swap.
 
JayRolla said:
All rotors on our vehicles are known for warping. Even the tundra and 4th gen guys. It kind of sucks but man what can you do. So far so good on my swap.
Click to expand...

Even on the Tundras? I thought that was the whole point of doing this swap because the original 4runner rotors were so thin that they were prone to warping!!! Why upgrade to the tundras if its the same thing? I also bed my brakes in as well.
 
This is a really great piece of info. I didn't see it in there, so someone correct me if I am wrong. Is there a list of rims that WILL work vs WILL NOT? I have the SCS SR8 wheels in the 16 inch size. This is on the plate as my next to do, but I don't want to jack my wheels all up.
 
jstim said:
This is a really great piece of info. I didn't see it in there, so someone correct me if I am wrong. Is there a list of rims that WILL work vs WILL NOT? I have the SCS SR8 wheels in the 16 inch size. This is on the plate as my next to do, but I don't want to jack my wheels all up.
Click to expand...

It's at the bottom of the third post. You have to scroll a bit because of the pictures, but there's a pretty good list there.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Yeah, they were bed perfectly. Firm and had the green/blue film on the rotor. That's why I'm kinda baffled on why I'm having issues. I did everything by the book :(
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Try rebedding them. I have to do that on my dad's vette every once in a while because he doesn't drive it hard enough to keep the rotors clean and pad deposits form on the rotor and cause a pulsation in the pedal that feels like a warped rotor.
 
calithirteen said:
Even on the Tundras? I thought that was the whole point of doing this swap because the original 4runner rotors were so thin that they were prone to warping!!! Why upgrade to the tundras if its the same thing? I also bed my brakes in as well.
Click to expand...

All vehicles have the chance to get warped rotors. If you run them hard and hit water a lot they have chance to warp.

I know tundra guys had the issue, its also why toyota went to a larger rotor on even the tundra. But even after that they could still have it happen. My bronco would do it also. My talons/eclipses ive owned could warp.
 
cashmoney said:
Try rebedding them. I have to do that on my dad's vette every once in a while because he doesn't drive it hard enough to keep the rotors clean and pad deposits form on the rotor and cause a pulsation in the pedal that feels like a warped rotor.
Click to expand...

That could be it. I've been driving them a bit harder lately to see if it is the rotors, even riding the brakes down the mountains didn't even make them wiggle a bit. Because of that, I'm almost positive my rotors are not warped.

But the vibration has lessened since I did that.
 
Only thing I can think of is that when you are working the brakes during normal driving and sitting at stop lights pad deposits are attaching to the rotors like they say when you are bedding the pads in which is lots of high heat slow downs and not coming to a complete stop or pad deposits will form on the rotors. Only thing that makes logical sense to me.
 
Yeah, I'm not too worried about it anymore. It has lessened and doesn't even do it when the brakes are cool (first 15 min of driving or so). I can live with this one.

On the flip side, my brakes are immensely better than before. I could hardly come to a stop they wobbled so bad. So, I guess I can live with a small vibration from time to time!
 
Finally got around to doing the 13wl calipers. Went with advance auto after coupon codes calipers where 50-60 each.

Thanks for a great write up.
 
gamefreakgc said:
That could be it. I've been driving them a bit harder lately to see if it is the rotors, even riding the brakes down the mountains didn't even make them wiggle a bit. Because of that, I'm almost positive my rotors are not warped.

But the vibration has lessened since I did that.
Click to expand...

That sounds like deposits for sure. Sometimes you have to heat the rotors up and then really bear down on them a few times to get it cleared off. I'm surprised you got deposits with OEM pads though. That's usually more of an issue with cheap pads, or racing pads that aren't cooled down properly before parking.
 
JayRolla said:
All vehicles have the chance to get warped rotors. If you run them hard and hit water a lot they have chance to warp.



I know tundra guys had the issue, its also why toyota went to a larger rotor on even the tundra. But even after that they could still have it happen. My bronco would do it also. My talons/eclipses ive owned could warp.
Click to expand...


I understand that but I definitely didn't run these hard. I'm pretty sure it was a case of trying to save a buck at the expense of quality in my situation. Pretty sure the new rotors I just purchased from the dealer will last longer!
 
wheel info?

I've sourced some Tundra brake parts and now I want to get down to business. I came across an "answer" in one of my threads about running a 1/4" spacer:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress-7.html#post2015356

This guy didnt seem to have a problem with 1/4" spacer, so I went to order a couple and called Wheelers. Wheelers were helpful, however, the guy I talked to at Wheelers, told me he wasn't sure, but to be cautious and measure the hub "ring" depth to ensure there is enough depth left after the spacer to centre the rim on the hub.... he said most aftermarket rims are wheel centric and the stock rims are hub centric... using a 1/4" spacer may be an issue with stock rims... Wheelers suggested I run 1.25" Spidertrac spacers (torqued correctly he stressed) no stud cutting with no noticeable changes in handling=2.5" wider?? Anyways, I haven't had a chance to pull a tire off yet to measure, but I'm hoping someone can chime in?

As BFAD mentioned at the beginning of his thread, he really wanted to avoid running spacers---- there has been incidents of failures on this forum---- I agree, but I really don't want to have to replace 2 sets of rims. I've really delayed this mod long enough due to this reason!! Any feedback would be appreciated!
 
calithirteen said:
I understand that but I definitely didn't run these hard. I'm pretty sure it was a case of trying to save a buck at the expense of quality in my situation. Pretty sure the new rotors I just purchased from the dealer will last longer!
Click to expand...

Yea they do, the OEM's are what im running with no issues. Make sure to run the expensive OEM pads with the shims. They grab better, last longer and dont leave brake dust on the wheels.
 
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