4Runrrun'n
New member
great! show a pic when you gotr done. Love to see how it turns out...
GROUP BUY - Outpost Off Road – OPOR slider Group BUY
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ARunner
New member
Has anyone tried to install these with aftermarket skids? Specifically, the RCI skid(s) that includes the transfer case skid which requires the cross-member? Either I'm doing it wrong, or to fit both will require some modification to one or both. :-/
The skid cross-member is attached via a bolt through the side of the frame. I'd hate to drop it under the slider, as that would take another 1/2" of ground clearance away, not to mention it wouldn't have a flush fit with the bottom of the frame any longer. <scratches head>
PS - Noticed that in the hardware bag, there is only one large nylon locking nut. I assume there should be two... can someone confirm?
The skid cross-member is attached via a bolt through the side of the frame. I'd hate to drop it under the slider, as that would take another 1/2" of ground clearance away, not to mention it wouldn't have a flush fit with the bottom of the frame any longer. <scratches head>
PS - Noticed that in the hardware bag, there is only one large nylon locking nut. I assume there should be two... can someone confirm?
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Lugboot
New member
I'll have to check that out--thanks--I was also thinking perhaps the Hammered Rustoleum like [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] used. Wish I could get to it this weekend, time's a wastin' before it gets cold over here, but splitting and stacking firewood comes first!
I guess I'm most concerned about properly cleaning them before the primer goes on.
jbjones85
New member
I thought about the hammered one as well but I was concerned that it would be to "glossy" and I wanted a more "matte" finish. Time will tell. Good thing is it only cost me $25 so if I don't like it i'll just sand it down and try something else. Suppose to rain all weekend so looks like it is getting put off until it gets a little nicer.
Still hadn't got my powder coated sliders from the GB and I was higher on the list than some of you. Contacted MetalTech and Jeanne responded with the following...
Good Morning,
The Powder Coated sliders are due to ship out by October 9th. They are at powder coat at this time. Once, they arrive...we will assign a tracking number and send you an invoice with the tracking information.
Regards,
Jeannie Hunt
Good Morning,
The Powder Coated sliders are due to ship out by October 9th. They are at powder coat at this time. Once, they arrive...we will assign a tracking number and send you an invoice with the tracking information.
Regards,
Jeannie Hunt
4Runrrun'n
New member
Has anyone tried to install these with aftermarket skids? Specifically, the RCI skid(s) that includes the transfer case skid which requires the cross-member? Either I'm doing it wrong, or to fit both will require some modification to one or both. :-/
The skid cross-member is attached via a bolt through the side of the frame. I'd hate to drop it under the slider, as that would take another 1/2" of ground clearance away, not to mention it wouldn't have a flush fit with the bottom of the frame any longer. <scratches head>
PS - Noticed that in the hardware bag, there is only one large nylon locking nut. I assume there should be two... can someone confirm?
WOW good to know! I have these skids as well and was going to invest in these sliders. Ugh don't you hate it when your super stoked with a new instal that by all predictions should be super straight forward and you run into something like this...:redbrick:
Let us know if you figure out the solution...
thetechnolust
New member
Got my bare set on the 29th, I think i'm number 44.
ARunner
New member
I spoke with Kendall at MetalTech. The solve for this slider/skid complication is to take off about 2" of the "back" toe / eyelet. The front is the only one that a bolt goes through. This will allow both the slider and the skid crossmember to hang onto their respective sides of the bottom of the frame. I'll try to get some pictures as I get mine finished. The cutting/grinding painting and fitting is complete. Had some challenges with getting the right size bit for one of the river inserts and having trouble getting the other rivet to bite. It just wants to turn in the hole. Anyone have any tricks to keep the insert from spinning?
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jbjones85
New member
I finished painting mine up yesterday and after looking through some install threads should the bracket shown here be included?
http://i.imgur.com/BRQVHGf.jpg
I did not receive this with with mine and am planning to install tomorrow (weather permitting)
http://i.imgur.com/BRQVHGf.jpg
I did not receive this with with mine and am planning to install tomorrow (weather permitting)
jbjones85
New member
I have a 2015 with KDSS.
jbjones85
New member
I have already unwrapped them and primed + painted. All that was received was a bag of about 12 screws and the sliders themselves. "F" i'll have to give them a call tomorrow. Hopefully they can get it out quick I want to get these put on
mattr
New member
I installed mine on my Limited last night. I wasn't in the group buy and paid more than you guys did, but thought I'd share my experience (Long story, but man I wish I had been in the buy....) I did it solo and it took just over 2hrs. I wasn't in a hurry and wanted to make sure I got it right. A few things:
I couldn't find my tap set so I made a tap out of a spare bolt I had and chased it through all of the frame holes first. Mine were full of crap and I'm glad I did it first.
The X-REAS clips on the limited are a pain in the ass. My X-REAS is disconnected but the lines are still there, I was not gentle with them at all and I didn't kink any lines but found a combination of two large flathead screwdrivers works best. I didn't have to loosen the X-REAS pump on either side.
A second set of hands would have been a great help, I used a floor jack to keep things positioned. On the first slider I got it close with the floor jack and then cursed and swore for a while. On the second side I got it exactly where I needed it with the floor jack and then it was super smooth. I would take the extra time, way easier to work with the floor jack then it is to move the slider while you're trying to bolt it.
The brake lines near the rear gusset were really on the fence of going over the gusset or through it. I decided that they would more easily go through the gusset then over it. The instructions didn't make a mention of it so I had to pick.
My front mud flaps are getting smashed up against on both sides, I'm going to have to do something about them. (In Canada they're standard, at least on the limited). The sliders really ride forward quite a bit, I wish they were about and inch more rearward and then everything would fit with lots of room.
There's a bigger gap between the rocker panels and steps then I would like, I used the jack to make sure I have them as close to the body as they would go, but another 1/2" would have been nice for the extra ground clearance. There's no worry of any contact at all at they sit on my truck.
They work pretty well as steps. On the first shipment from MetalTech for me they sent the trail hardware instead of the limited. The sliders were correct type, but the hardware set was wrong. I didn't find this out until I had already pulled by running boards, so after going a month with no running boards now, the sliders make it a dream to get in and out of the truck again.
I couldn't find my tap set so I made a tap out of a spare bolt I had and chased it through all of the frame holes first. Mine were full of crap and I'm glad I did it first.
The X-REAS clips on the limited are a pain in the ass. My X-REAS is disconnected but the lines are still there, I was not gentle with them at all and I didn't kink any lines but found a combination of two large flathead screwdrivers works best. I didn't have to loosen the X-REAS pump on either side.
A second set of hands would have been a great help, I used a floor jack to keep things positioned. On the first slider I got it close with the floor jack and then cursed and swore for a while. On the second side I got it exactly where I needed it with the floor jack and then it was super smooth. I would take the extra time, way easier to work with the floor jack then it is to move the slider while you're trying to bolt it.
The brake lines near the rear gusset were really on the fence of going over the gusset or through it. I decided that they would more easily go through the gusset then over it. The instructions didn't make a mention of it so I had to pick.
My front mud flaps are getting smashed up against on both sides, I'm going to have to do something about them. (In Canada they're standard, at least on the limited). The sliders really ride forward quite a bit, I wish they were about and inch more rearward and then everything would fit with lots of room.
There's a bigger gap between the rocker panels and steps then I would like, I used the jack to make sure I have them as close to the body as they would go, but another 1/2" would have been nice for the extra ground clearance. There's no worry of any contact at all at they sit on my truck.
They work pretty well as steps. On the first shipment from MetalTech for me they sent the trail hardware instead of the limited. The sliders were correct type, but the hardware set was wrong. I didn't find this out until I had already pulled by running boards, so after going a month with no running boards now, the sliders make it a dream to get in and out of the truck again.
clin9383
Member
Thanks Mattr, would it be too much to ask you to post a picture of the install points? I think some of the guys on here are more visual and that would greatly help in addition to your explanation. FYI, Mine are on its way. powered coated and i'm number 29 on the list for those wondering when theirs will ship out.
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mattr
New member
You bet, I'll post some pictures up tonight. There were some great pics in this thread I referenced when I was doing the install:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/142394-opor-sliders-installed-3.html
Thanks for taking time to write up some of your extra tips even though you were not part of the group buy.
I just got my shipping notice last night [finally] for my powder coated sliders. I was 12th on the list. Seems like I had to wait longer than most.
ARunner
New member
I finally wrapped up my install this morning. This was on a 4th gen with RCI skid plates front to back. Here are my impressions:
Specific to RCI Skids:
- You'll need to modify your slider foot that wraps under the frame so that it doesn't interfere with your RCI skid crossmember. See pics below:
-You'll need to modify the rectangular silver bracket used for the center foot for the driver's side to avoid interfering with the RCI skid crossmember. The reason you only have to do it on driver's side is because the brake line position prevents you from being able to rotate it so that the long side is horizontal. Note the pic below is of the passenger side which I didn't have to cut, but I did because I didn't know better at the time. It shows the clearance issue, but again on the passenger side you could rotate it around to make it work and be okay as there are no brake lines interfering.
- You may or may not need to drop the fuel skid plate to get enough clearance to fit the U-Bolt around the back side of the frame. I had to to do so.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
The quality of these seems terrific. I like both the fit and the function these sliders provide and I think at the price they're about the best value out there for my particular needs. No regrets about this purchase whatsoever.
This was much more involved than I imagined it would be. It is officially a bolt on, but it's not as simple as a couple of wrenches and a couple hours in the garage. This included for me 2 or 3 trips to a hardware store, and a trip to a specialty store to find the right size bits. Outside of the painting/prep of the sliders, I probably spent 6+ hours on this install, not counting all the errand trips. The first one took me about 4 hours, the second about 2 taking what I learned on the first go-round. Keep in mind, some of these annoyances are due to running aftermarket skids that cause more hassle with installation.
In the instructions it notes that an 11/16" hole needs to be drilled for the center foot (bolt that goes up through the bottom into bottom of frame into rivet nut). They note you have to install the slider to mark the location. My truck already had a hole here in this location. I'd assume all do, but maybe not. I simply had to enlarge it.
Rivet nuts are a complete headache. Having no experience doing rivet nuts kind of makes it tough to get it right on your first try. As you might imagine, I didn't. When I tried to remove the bolt from the rivet nut installed on the front leg, the rivet nut turned inside the frame. :redbrick:
After some more quality time with the grinder that I got more use out of on this project than I think I have in years, I punched the rivet back through and into the frame and then fished it out. I ended up going another route. I'm not going to recommend it, but I'm pleased with it. I basically used a magnet to pull the bolt from a larger hole within the frame within which it could pass and pulled it through the hole drilled in the frame and then threaded my nut and washers on it from the outside, holding it for tightening with vice grips. Obviously this buggers the threads a bit on the end of the bolt, but I'll consider it a sacrificial bolt if I ever need to remove it. BTW, if you go this route, such a large hole as is needed for the rivet nut isn't necessary. Picture below:
Luckily I had less trouble with the larger rivet nuts, but still don't consider myself proficient at it. I would recommend anyone that is nervous using these rivet nuts to consider buying 2 or 3 practice nuts to use on a piece of steel where you can see and feel what's happening as the rivet crushes into shape. I watched a couple of youtube videos, but still managed to screw up. I suspect on the my first attempt I put too much torque on it and somehow rotated the rivet within the frame and then I was SOL. One other trick I saw online in the event your rivet nut is just spinning in the frame before you can get it to crush in on the back side was to use these little locking washers. You put them between the surface of the rivet and your spacer (oversized nut) to put a bite on the lip of the rivet to keep it from spinning until it begins to crush as you tighten the bolt into the rivet threads. They worked great. Can be found at your local hardware store:
With regard to chasing the factory threads in the front top bolt hole as is recommended in the instructions, I found it wasn't necessary. My truck has never been subjected to any meaningful amount of corrosive material, so if yours has, the instructions should probably be followed. On the first one I did chase the threads. But they didn't seem that dirty and it was a bit of a PITA due to the clearance. So on the next side I simply used some WD40 and the bolt and ran it in and out a couple of times, cleaning the threads each time. By then I could thread by hand. Use discretion and obviously if you feel the bolt not going in smoothly or tightening up, take appropriate precautions.
Tips:
Use jack stands (with blocks to avoid scratching your new paint) to help hold your slider in place if working alone. Depending on the height of your rig, a 5 gallon bucket also may put it pretty close to where you need it.
Don't tighten your bolts until you have them all in and partially threaded. The instructions say to tighten the center large bolt first. Given my uneasiness about the rivet nut, I did thread this in until it started to get some tension, but then tightened my front bolts. Then I went after the rears, then the lower bolt on the center foot and finally the horizontal bolt on the center foot. I used a jack to make sure the slider was positioned where I wanted it while tightening the hardware.
If you take as long as I do with this stuff, put a charger on your battery or you'll run it down listening to the classic rock. :doh:
Good luck!
Specific to RCI Skids:
- You'll need to modify your slider foot that wraps under the frame so that it doesn't interfere with your RCI skid crossmember. See pics below:
-You'll need to modify the rectangular silver bracket used for the center foot for the driver's side to avoid interfering with the RCI skid crossmember. The reason you only have to do it on driver's side is because the brake line position prevents you from being able to rotate it so that the long side is horizontal. Note the pic below is of the passenger side which I didn't have to cut, but I did because I didn't know better at the time. It shows the clearance issue, but again on the passenger side you could rotate it around to make it work and be okay as there are no brake lines interfering.
- You may or may not need to drop the fuel skid plate to get enough clearance to fit the U-Bolt around the back side of the frame. I had to to do so.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
The quality of these seems terrific. I like both the fit and the function these sliders provide and I think at the price they're about the best value out there for my particular needs. No regrets about this purchase whatsoever.
This was much more involved than I imagined it would be. It is officially a bolt on, but it's not as simple as a couple of wrenches and a couple hours in the garage. This included for me 2 or 3 trips to a hardware store, and a trip to a specialty store to find the right size bits. Outside of the painting/prep of the sliders, I probably spent 6+ hours on this install, not counting all the errand trips. The first one took me about 4 hours, the second about 2 taking what I learned on the first go-round. Keep in mind, some of these annoyances are due to running aftermarket skids that cause more hassle with installation.
In the instructions it notes that an 11/16" hole needs to be drilled for the center foot (bolt that goes up through the bottom into bottom of frame into rivet nut). They note you have to install the slider to mark the location. My truck already had a hole here in this location. I'd assume all do, but maybe not. I simply had to enlarge it.
Rivet nuts are a complete headache. Having no experience doing rivet nuts kind of makes it tough to get it right on your first try. As you might imagine, I didn't. When I tried to remove the bolt from the rivet nut installed on the front leg, the rivet nut turned inside the frame. :redbrick:
After some more quality time with the grinder that I got more use out of on this project than I think I have in years, I punched the rivet back through and into the frame and then fished it out. I ended up going another route. I'm not going to recommend it, but I'm pleased with it. I basically used a magnet to pull the bolt from a larger hole within the frame within which it could pass and pulled it through the hole drilled in the frame and then threaded my nut and washers on it from the outside, holding it for tightening with vice grips. Obviously this buggers the threads a bit on the end of the bolt, but I'll consider it a sacrificial bolt if I ever need to remove it. BTW, if you go this route, such a large hole as is needed for the rivet nut isn't necessary. Picture below:
Luckily I had less trouble with the larger rivet nuts, but still don't consider myself proficient at it. I would recommend anyone that is nervous using these rivet nuts to consider buying 2 or 3 practice nuts to use on a piece of steel where you can see and feel what's happening as the rivet crushes into shape. I watched a couple of youtube videos, but still managed to screw up. I suspect on the my first attempt I put too much torque on it and somehow rotated the rivet within the frame and then I was SOL. One other trick I saw online in the event your rivet nut is just spinning in the frame before you can get it to crush in on the back side was to use these little locking washers. You put them between the surface of the rivet and your spacer (oversized nut) to put a bite on the lip of the rivet to keep it from spinning until it begins to crush as you tighten the bolt into the rivet threads. They worked great. Can be found at your local hardware store:
With regard to chasing the factory threads in the front top bolt hole as is recommended in the instructions, I found it wasn't necessary. My truck has never been subjected to any meaningful amount of corrosive material, so if yours has, the instructions should probably be followed. On the first one I did chase the threads. But they didn't seem that dirty and it was a bit of a PITA due to the clearance. So on the next side I simply used some WD40 and the bolt and ran it in and out a couple of times, cleaning the threads each time. By then I could thread by hand. Use discretion and obviously if you feel the bolt not going in smoothly or tightening up, take appropriate precautions.
Tips:
Use jack stands (with blocks to avoid scratching your new paint) to help hold your slider in place if working alone. Depending on the height of your rig, a 5 gallon bucket also may put it pretty close to where you need it.
Don't tighten your bolts until you have them all in and partially threaded. The instructions say to tighten the center large bolt first. Given my uneasiness about the rivet nut, I did thread this in until it started to get some tension, but then tightened my front bolts. Then I went after the rears, then the lower bolt on the center foot and finally the horizontal bolt on the center foot. I used a jack to make sure the slider was positioned where I wanted it while tightening the hardware.
If you take as long as I do with this stuff, put a charger on your battery or you'll run it down listening to the classic rock. :doh:
Good luck!
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