Rock Rat's Imperial Jade Mica "Next Adventure" Build

Rock_Rat · Dec 8, 2015

Wiring Rear Cargo Lights using the Exisiting Switch

Here are the Instructions for wiring your lights using the Existing Rear Cargo Switch. I moved my switch to the drivers side panel because I needed to install a Lumitec Engine Bay light. It took me a couple of months playing with some ideas to really figure out how I wanted to utilize the light and the existing switch.

Installing the New LED light in the existing OEM Location
I needed a trim piece and four sheet metal screws for the new LED light. Found a 4runner in the junk yard with a grey interior. Using my dremel tool and belt sander I made my trim piece. Used a hot glue gun to secure it. Used a dremel tool to cut a hole to specs for the new switch location.

Moving the OEM switch to it's new location

Needed an existing ground preferably.
Wanted to install high enough that I could still install a potential sleep platform.
didn't want to interfere with exisiting ventilation.
Using a dremel tool I cut and sanded to exact dimensions of the switch.
Secured in place with gorilla glue

Instructions for Connector
(NOTE: This is all done after the LED light and trim piece are installed and switch is relocated)

Remove fuse for dome lights (this was the first thing I did before anything - no power)
Remove interior panels including dome light panel
Cut the connector off leaving enough room to splice wires on both the connector and the remaining wires.
Run two 20 gauge wires from existing cut wires to new location for connector.
Run two more wires from existing wires, (Red and black) to passenger side IF you plan on adding more lights and using the existing 15 amp fuse.
Splice connector to new wires.
Run an additional 20ga wire from the switch to the passenger side for "switched" power.
On the ceiling splice the new wires and the red and black wires to the cut wires coming from the fuse.

Running Power to your New LED Light

Run power and ground from your new light to the switch as follows:
You need eight connectors and a two butt splices
Run enough wire with about six extra inches from your new light to the end of the ceiling panel.
Run additional wire from the side panel to the lamp in the switch.
Add connectors on the ceiling wires where the ceiling panel mates with the side panel. thsi allows you to remove the ceiling panel with two disconnects.

Add connectors going to the lamp.
NOTE: The following should be done on your bench.

Solder the positive lead to the positive side of the lamp holder.
Solder the negative lead to the negative side of the lamp holder.

I actually used the bulb.

Getting Switched Power to the Other side

Using the extra 20gauge wire you ran earlier, splice it into the positive side of the wire going from the LAMP. When the lamp is turned off, power will be removed from the wire.

Why run switched power to the passenger side? I plan on adding additional lights on the lift gate. I want to use the existing 15 amp fuse. I will run my power and ground off the dome light directly to a negative/positive bus bar. I'll then run my lights through a switched relay. The switched power will go directly to the relay and the pos/neg from the relay to the bus bar.

Rjsimeon · Dec 9, 2015

sub'd. like the detailed posts.

derpiful · Dec 9, 2015

I love the write ups and pictures- super helpful! I'm sure I'll end up using one of these some day.. Build is looking great!

Rock_Rat · Dec 9, 2015

derpiful said:
I love the write ups and pictures- super helpful! I'm sure I'll end up using one of these some day.. Build is looking great!

Rjsimeon said:
sub'd. like the detailed posts.

Thanks. Just trying to make it easier for folks when looking for information. I find myself in and out of the FSM and bouncing around from one thread to another sometimes or trying to find the magic word sequence in the Google Search field.

Rock_Rat · Dec 19, 2015

Additional Photos of the Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter Dissected

Ok it was time to put the lab coat on, grab the sawzall and dissect the Fuel Filter in half.

Time since Install - Original filter 15 years old
Miles since replaced - ~ 320,000 (First time it was ever replaced)

I used the white paper for color reference. As you can see the paper element is definitely pretty dirty, or should I say discolored? I'm not sure what the filtration micron is on an OEM in-line filter but my guess is it's around 10micron up to 400micron.

Only a true lab would be able to provide the truth on this filters ability to last the rest of the life of the vehicle. I'm sure it would.

As for me, I'll include it in my maintenance schedule as it's only $30 to replace and takes less than 30 minutes.

Let me answer the famous question, "Did you notice a difference in your gas mileage or performance?" No difference at all.

EDIT: Just added an additional photo of the filter after I rubbed it onto the paper.

SilvFx · Dec 20, 2015

Rock Rat...continuing the conversation on Toyota OEM Reman front CV axles. You mentioned that you normally get 20% off, but for some reason these remans are selling at a much larger discount.

Near as i can tell, for 43430-35030-84, the list price is $282.45. TRD Parts 4U is selling for $150. Tere are some others that sell for as low as $137. So....most online parts retailers are selling for something near a 50% discount + shipping + $75 refundable core charge.

For another option on remanufactured axles, contact CVJ who remanufacturers OEM axles right here in Denver, CO. They may have some done they can send to you and refund a core charge when you replace. Here is their website:

CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

Rock_Rat · Dec 21, 2015

SilvFx said:
Rock Rat...continuing the conversation on Toyota OEM Reman front CV axles. You mentioned that you normally get 20% off, but for some reason these remans are selling at a much larger discount.

Near as i can tell, for 43430-35030-84, the list price is $282.45. TRD Parts 4U is selling for $150. Tere are some others that sell for as low as $137. So....most online parts retailers are selling for something near a 50% discount + shipping + $75 refundable core charge.

For another option on remanufactured axles, contact CVJ who remanufacturers OEM axles right here in Denver, CO. They may have some done they can send to you and refund a core charge when you replace. Here is their website:

CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

I have two in the shopping cart at EB Bochtoyota ready to go. I texted my buddy tonight and he's going to look it up for me first thing in the AM. If he can't beat the price I'll go ahead and order them. I've read great reviews about CVJ except there was one where the shaft had a place for two snap rings. There were a few posts where guys were questioning whether or not they were truly OEM. I'm sure they are. They have a great reputation, but I'll go with one of the OEM parts retailers.

Rock_Rat · Dec 21, 2015

Torn CV Boot Repair

After changing my oil, I noticed I had a torn CV Boot on the drivers side. I posted the initial finding in the "What did you do to your 3rd Gen" thread. Here

Field Repair 101 - In the Comfort of your Driveway

Supplies

Paper towels and paper bag
Dawn concentrate
Box of disposable Latex Gloves
Gas, alcohol (not for drinking, that comes later), something to clean the area with
Shoe Goo or Goop
Self-Fusing Silicone Tape
Zip Tie

Cleaning
Spend a good amount of time just wiping all of the grease off with plain paper towels
Once you're ready, get a bucket and Dawn concentrate and begin to clean the area
Rinse it off and do it again
I went through about six pair of gloves and two rolls of paper towels

If possible - Service the CV Joint

I took my grease gun and was able to get it through the tear to the CV joint without incurring anymore damage tot he boot. I "service it" with Mystic Hi-Temp Multi-Purpose Grease (EP) from O-Reilly's

Time for the Field Repair

Jack the axle up as level as possible
Clean the area that's torn with a gasoline doused rag, brake clean if you want (try to avoid), alcohol, WD-40 or other solvent. I would avoid Gunk engine cleaner as it will leave a film and also discolor your under-carriage
Rotate your axle so the bulk of the tear is at the top. Apply a liberal amount of Shoe Goo on the top and wait for it to dry. Avoid getting any Goo on the rest of the bellows.
Once dry, rotate your axle again and apply more Shoe Goo. Continue this process until you've completely surrounded the tear on the boot. If you try and do it all at once, just remember, gravity works and it will take the path of least resistance and you'll have a shoe goo icicle.
Once your satisfied you've covered the torn area well and you have rotated the axle several times and it flexes OK, it's time apply the self-fusing tape.

Applying the Self-Fusing Tape
You want to use self-fusing silicone tape because of it's elasticity and ability to use it anywhere (radiator hoses, vacuum lines, fuel lines etc. The tensile strength is 700psi and it stretches 300%. I picked up a roll at O-Reilly's. I didn't want to use my expensive high temp tape.

Start to wrap in a clockwise direction from the inside of the boot towards the outside. You then want to be able to positively secure the end by running a zip tie on the end of it at the axle. When I was finished, I added more self-fusing tape over the zip tie just in case it had a tendency to nick the boot anywhere.

Remember, this is just a band-aid until you're ready to replace your boot. I wouldn't bother road testing it. Don't put any unnecessary miles on your repair. I need to have a back-up vehicle where I live, just in case we get snow.

Rock_Rat · Dec 21, 2015

Reserved for me

Rock_Rat · Dec 21, 2015

This one is also reserved for me

4Runner4TW · Dec 21, 2015

This is a great build! How does the suspension handle with OME in the rear and Bilsteins up front?
I love the cargo light idea and might steal that one. I found this past year that I need more camp and trail light.

Rock_Rat · Dec 22, 2015

4Runner4TW said:
This is a great build! How does the suspension handle with OME in the rear and Bilsteins up front?
I love the cargo light idea and might steal that one. I found this past year that I need more camp and trail light.

So far I'm real pleased with the ride. Not too stiff and no regrets with the 600# springs even with the Shrockworks bumper. Definitely do the cargo light. What a huge difference! This is by far my favorite mod so far aside from the TBU. If you need any help with it just let me know. I'll be adding my A-series rigid Industries to the cargo door soon. Just had a bit of delay with the CV boot tear.

Rock_Rat · Jan 2, 2016

Rigid Industries D2 Hyperspots and PIAA 520 ATP

Had a little fun this weekend installing my additional lights.

Rigid Industries 50471 D2-Series Hyperspot LED Light
PIAA 5296 520 Clear ATP Black Lamp Kit
T4R3 Ditch Light Brackets from CBI

I still haven't upgraded my engine bay yet with my Blue Sea system. I also haven't upgraded my cockpit yet with new switches. Therefore, I decided to run two PIAA switches which use a 3M peel and stick backing.

I had an extra PIAA switch from my 510 fogs since I wired them directly to the fog light switch

I installed the switches on the interior JB fuse cover. The small switches slide effortlessly through the handhold, and when tiedied up, the extra wire tucks away nicely behind the kick panel.

Rock_Rat · Jan 2, 2016

Reserved for me for lights installation write up.

Unner · Jan 3, 2016

Lookin good!

Rock_Rat · Feb 15, 2016

Replaced Spark Plugs and Wires

Weekend plans and accomplishments

Drop the skids, pull the wheels and inspect the Undercarriage and temporary CV boot repair

Steering rack was solid after the poly bushing installation
Oil pan showed signs of small leakage
The ADD connector is still hanging in there. I have a donor I picked up at the salvage yard.
Exterior CV boots are good but rubber is suspect after 15 years
Inner boots are still hanging in there with the Goop and fusion tape - much to my surprise!
Definitely need new sway bar links.
Transmission is looking good no leaks
Drive shaft is good but a bit gunked up. I think it's from the CV boot tear that slung the grease everywhere when it tore. Wiped it down will inspect later on.

Time to look at the suspension - grrrr

I'm starting to notice grease seapage from my upper ball joint on my LR UCA's. Not much but enough to raise concern. I've got a call into the vendor and sent them photos for evaluation. There's no visible tear.
Inspected the welds as I read in the 4th and 5th gen threads of some catastrophic failures with the LR UCA. I'm not overly concerned.
Also inspected the adjustable cam to see if it was hitting the upper shock strut mount. So far no but it is another area that is suspect with the LR UCA's.
I'm starting to consider a different UCA but will do some serious research first. I will replace the upper ball joints once I modify my spindles with the TC gussetts.
All in all, suspension looks good.

Plugs and Wires
Time for my 30K plug and wire replacement

Went with what's been working for me for years - the double ground K16TR11 - Photo shows a good engine so far for 330k miles
(I know all about the arguments for iridium v. these.) My 4runner - my plugs. I still get a great spark! My next plugs will be the Iridium IK22's.
As for the wires I went with NGK RC-TE66 this time around - I like blue.

If I did my math correctly, this should be about the 11th time I've changed the plugs and wires on my rig.

Photo's are for all the guys on here that might be doing their first plug and wire change.

Rock_Rat · Feb 15, 2016

TRD SuperCharger Install - Happening Soon

TRD SC Installation

Most of items I need to install my TRD SC have arrived. Engine still runs strong. Compression is solid and undercarriage looks good. As recommended by @MTD I will tune according to the pyramid setup with my equalized injectors and stock fuel pump first.

Because I never plan on doing holeshots with a 4x4 I will delay the IPC transmission upgrade for a while. I still might pick up 4.88 gears from ECGS. Undecided.

Picked up the SC locally here in Portland for $700
Replaced the nose cone - PN#PTR29-35042 - Cost:$228
Decided on the AEM F/IC-6 Controller - PN# 30-1910 Cost: $364.61
Boomslang Harness - PN# BF12106 AEM F/IC Cost: $379
Denso ID22 Cooler plugs - Cost: $47.95
Stant 170° T-Stat - PN# 14077 Cost: $11.09
AEM 30-4900 Wideband Failsafe Gauge - Cost: $285.00

This is not a cheap upgrade by any means. Looking forward to getting started on this. Need some quality time in between the other repairs such as replacing my axles and upgrading my UCA's, spindles, and LCA's.

EDIT: Forgot to mention opening up the exhaust. I'm long overdue for a new exhaust system. BJ's Offroad had the DT headers for around $550 at one time. They were going to add them back to their site. I need to follow up with them tomorrow. It's hard to find them now under $700.

Scramble · Feb 16, 2016

The truck is looking awesome!

I think a re-gear is in my future after the SC too. Larger tires & armor has slowed my truck down big time.

SLO_Rob · Feb 16, 2016

Thanks

Thanks for taking the time to share such detail. Very cool of you...

Rock_Rat · Mar 28, 2016

I hit a high mileage mark for me on Friday March 25th 2016

I hit a major milestone on my 4Runner today. It's hard to believe but all of those miles are mine! Hopefully it's broken in now.:bluejump:

arty:

Rock Rat's Imperial Jade Mica "Next Adventure" Build

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