StreetCreeper's Thread About StreetCreeper Stuff and Other Weird/Random Shit

StreetCreeper

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Everyone has a build thread — but I'm too poor (not really...we'll ok, a smidge) to build up my truck into a big ol' beast...so no build thread for me anytime soon.

But then I figured I would have a build thread where I just talked about how I wasn't going to have a build thread.

Exciting huh...

But of course that would be a very shitty thread. So in order to make my "not-a-build-thread" a little less shitty — I'll also talk about whatever 4Runner related thoughts cross my mind.

Exciting huh...

For instance, how the hell is that when you eyeball your air filter — it looks decent? Not great, but decent; like it could go a good while yet.

But when you actually set it beside the new one, you suddenly realize it was much grungier than it first appeared.

Is it magic — or magic mushrooms?

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My kind of build thread! Maybe you can fill it out with a debate about wether to get a bumper sticker or a TRD sticker?
 
I changed my filter last week. I dont think the PO every changed it. It looked like someone spray painted it black.
 
Is that your road sploof?

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That's a pretty filter you got there!!

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My kind of build thread! Maybe you can fill it out with a debate about wether to get a bumper sticker or a TRD sticker?

Is it still a bumper sticker if I put it on someone's butt, or would it be a butt sticker? And would it be awkward if said butt sticker was a TRD butt sticker?

In other news, I have the same NGK wires in my 4Runner.

:party:

How crazy is that! I bet they are blue too!

It's totally the 'shrooms put that grungy filter back in!

I knew it!

TRD Stickers make it go faster! Everyone knows that.

Except if you drive a 5th gen 4Runner since all the Plasti-dip mods negate the extra TRD horsepower...

I changed my filter last week. I dont think the PO every changed it. It looked like someone spray painted it black.

I'm guessing there was a noticeable performance improvement afterwards?

Buckle up ladies and gentlemen, it's gonna be a wild ride.

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Congratulations !

I really hope I can keep the rust at bay long enough to see that on this 4runner.
('97 was condemned at 265k)
 
Now that summer is upon us, I'm preparing to overhaul the cooling system.

Since getting a Scangauge a few weeks ago, I've noticed that my cooling system is bordering on failure. I would never have know this however, if it weren't for the ScanGauge.

So thanks ScanGauge!

Since the factory in-dash temp gauge doesn't even move until the coolant is at least in the 230* range (maybe higher), it's literally impossible to even notice that your system could be failing until you have a more serious problem.

Once I acquired my ScanGauge, I took note of the coolant temp at various times, conditions and loads.

I noticed that my truck ran around at 191-193* when the A/C was off. It really didn't matter the outside air temp, or if I was in stop & go traffic.

Crank up the air conditioner and the coolant temp is fine at freeway speeds. However, once you slow down to city traffic pace or just sit idling somewhere — the temps start to rise.

I experimented a little and sat in the sun on a 100 degree day with the A/C on max for exactly 15 minutes. I wanted to see how hot the coolant would get.

I started at 4pm & 193*.

​

Fifteen minutes later I was at 218 and climbing.

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I'd seen enough — so I drove off to cool the truck down.

While driving around cooling off the truck, I got to thinking about the cooling system as a whole.

I had no idea when the radiator, coolant, thermostat, hoses, fan clutch and water pump were changed...if ever. The PO didn't keep records.

What I did know was that the temps I was seeing made feel like I was getting a good look into the future of the cooling system. So I took the readings as an early warning sign of impending failure.

Now I just had to figure out what the problem was.

One thing that everyone talks about on here is the jiggle valve, but I quickly ruled that out as I could see the truck naturally wanted to be in the upper 180s to lower 190s. Only when the system was under stress, did the temps rise. So I knew the valve was oriented properly.

The fan clutch was my next thought, and I tested it while it was engaged and was unable to stop it with a rolled up newspaper. However, I'd never really heard the fan engage or disengage. So maybe bad maybe good.

The radiator was a suspect too ... well just because we always think it's the radiator.

Since I didn't know the radiators history, it was doubly suspect to me. Visually it looked ok. The fluid also looked ok (not great) but I knew it needed changing.

The water pump is scheduled to be changed next month with the timing belt, so I focused elsewhere even though I knew it could be the culprit as well.

After some thought, I've decided to just replace everything and not play games. I often have my little kids in the truck, so I really don't want to overheat because I'm being a cheap-ass.

So starting with the coolant which didn't look that bad to me when I popped the cap, turned out looking pretty nasty once I drained it.



​

I dumped in a bottle of Prestone flush and refilled with distilled water. I let that run for about a day or so and then drained it this morning.

After draining out the flush chemicals, I refilled it again. I left the cap off to burp the system and noticed white foamy stuff oozing very slowly out of the radiator. In the foam was little specks of crap.

​

So I decided to flush again but without the chems. Just wanted to get the last crap out before installing the new radiator with new coolant.

After refilling with straight distilled water, I noticed that the temps were a little better. Not by much, but enough to see that the Prestone flush did actually work as advertised.

So anyway, since I didn't feel like waiting for the coolant to cool off enough to swap radiators, I decided to just swap the fan clutch today and radiator tomorrow.

As some of you may have saw, I screwed myself on the clutch removal by not using any penetrating oil beforehand and not using a 6 point wrench. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/220714-need-ideas-i-rounded-off-one-fan-clutch-nuts.html

3 nuts brook loose easy, the 4th (bottom nut I could not really see) nut felt like it was breaking loose — but turned out I was just making a nice shiny circle out of it.

Finally got the nut off and put the new clutch on.

The old clutch was the original and made it 20 years an 400,016 miles.
You can be damn sure I replaced it with another Aisin clutch!

​

So before the clutch replacement, I tested the coolant temp on a 100* day and saw 24* increase to 218* in 15 minutes.

After I installed the new clutch, I took it out for a drive and got it all warmed up. I then checked the coolant temp and made sure all the previous conditions were the same.

99* outside air temp ( not 100 I know — but hey ), A/C on full blast and truck sitting in the open sun.

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Starting temp was 188*

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After 5 minutes I had seen enough.

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Ending temp actually went down to 186* after sitting in 99* heat with A/C cranked up to max. A/C exit temp was a frosty 40* the whole time too...

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Tomorrow it's day 2 of the cooling system overhaul; the radiator, thermostat and hoses.
 
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I am disappointed. I was expecting a thread with weird/random shit and instead I get one with practical real world applications backed up with hard numbers and pics. All on the cheap. Sigh
 
Good work Woody, swapping your rad will be a breeze after yesterday's fan clutch fiasco.

Hardest part is not drinking too much waiting on it to drain
 
I am disappointed. I was expecting a thread with weird/random shit and instead I get one with practical real world applications backed up with hard numbers and pics. All on the cheap. Sigh

Just wait till I'm totally baked at 2am some night — I'm sure "weird/random" will be covered... :D

Good work Woody, swapping your rad will be a breeze after yesterday's fan clutch fiasco.

Hardest part is not drinking too much waiting on it to drain

Well I don't drink, but since nothing will be on jackstands or safety critical, I might have a toke or two while it drains...

​
 
Well kinda weird

Ok grab your tinfoil everyone — its jiggle valve conspiracy time...

We've all read the threads about jiggle valves and how they need to be oriented in the 6 o'clock position. Otherwise your truck will run hot. Jiggle valve at 6 o'clock temps are 188* — 191* all day long. Jiggle valve at 12 o'clock and temps are 203* — 207* all day long.

Haynes manual says 12 o'clock and FSM says 6 o'clock. Countless members have verified that the FSM is correct.

I just pulled the thermostat on my 1997 Ltd.. Since the new fan clutch, the truck runs 188* all day long. One could assume that means the jiggle valve is properly
oriented....

Well....

Low n' behold, it's the original thermostat. 20 years old and 400,000 miles on it. And it still works. The kicker is that it was positioned at about 1-1:30 o'clock — at the factory.


Following pic is of the thermostat just as I found it when I removed the housing.


 
Low n' behold, it's the original thermostat. 20 years old and 400,000 miles on it. And it still works. The kicker is that it was positioned at about 1-1:30 o'clock — at the factory.

That's weird... My first timing belt change was done at the dealership, before I owned the truck; I don't know if the factory tstat was changed. I recently changed out my tstat and my jiggle pin was at about 1-130 just like yours. I don't have a Scangauge so I don't know what the temps were.
 
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That's weird... My first timing belt change was done at the dealership, before I owned the truck; I don't know if the factory tstat was changed. I recently changed out my tstat and my jiggle pin was at about 1-130 just like yours. I don't have a Scangauge so I don't know what the temps were.

I also recently changed my thermostat, but like Shooter, I don't know if the factory thermostat was changed when the previous owners paid to get the timing belt and water pump replaced. However, mine was at around the 3 o'clock position when I removed it. I was monitoring my coolant temps before and after the thermostat change and I can attest there is no difference in my coolant temps due to the different jiggle valve positions, 3 o'clock vs 6 o'clock.

The jiggle valve doesn't look like much of an engineering marvel and I'm wondering how the position of it could alter the coolant temps anyway. It would be cool if somebody has a technical explanation how the jiggle valve does it's thing.
 
Ok grab your tinfoil everyone — its jiggle valve conspiracy time...

We've all read the threads about jiggle valves and how they need to be oriented in the 6 o'clock position. Otherwise your truck will run hot. Jiggle valve at 6 o'clock temps are 188* — 191* all day long. Jiggle valve at 12 o'clock and temps are 203* — 207* all day long.

Haynes manual says 12 o'clock and FSM says 6 o'clock. Countless members have verified that the FSM is correct.

I just pulled the thermostat on my 1997 Ltd.. Since the new fan clutch, the truck runs 188* all day long. One could assume that means the jiggle valve is properly
oriented....

Well....

Low n' behold, it's the original thermostat. 20 years old and 400,000 miles on it. And it still works. The kicker is that it was positioned at about 1-1:30 o'clock — at the factory.

Dammit Jim, I left my tin foil hat at the cleaners! This is something close to my heart! I've only done one of these when I did the timing belt on my wife's Tacoma. I didn't pay attention to where it was when it came out, but I put it back at 12:00 because that is conventional wisdom. It did overheat once, when the radiator cracked, but it doesn't run hot now. So of course I am not convinced either way. Boy do I need that hat!

:ranger:
 

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