What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
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Simpleman74
New member
got my Apex Overland Cargo rack from the group buy
LawnDart
Senior Member
got my Apex Overland Cargo rack from the group buy
Interested to see what you think of them.
lipek
New member
got my Apex Overland Cargo rack from the group buy
At first I thought hmm that looks awfully close to orange boxx fab then I realized it's because it is but it's being sold by apex lol
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Ocala National Forest today. Found enough trails and wash outs to have a little fun. Saw the Navy A10 Warthogs make a strafing run on the bombing range. Can't see the targets but it's cool stuff anyway. Also saw a Juvenile Black Bear. And no I couldn't get a pic because we all surprised each other and he did 4.0 flat 40 on out of there.
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Diver Deuce
New member
Bam finished making my fuse panel bracket!
NoOneBetter
Member
Rear Molle Racks:
Driver side:
Passenger side:
NOCO AC Plug:
Driver side:
Passenger side:
NOCO AC Plug:
reidbailey
New member
NOCO AC Plug:
What charger are you using to what battery, if you don't mind me asking?
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Simpleman74
New member
you digging them? Feels a bit heavy so I'll see once I get it painted and installed
LOL ah, you are right.... there is an Orange Boxx Fab Sticker in the box
got my Apex Overland Cargo rack from the group buy
I like!
I also want to put a cargo box beneath one of these, could you measure how much space there is from the bottom of the rack to the deck of the cargo area? Hopefully 13 or more inches?
Thanks,
Simpleman74
New member
I wont be installing until this weekend but I will measure if you haven't gotten your answer before then. I have 3rd row though so you'll have add about 5" to whatever measurement I have...
NoOneBetter
Member
NOCO GEN1 onboard charger with a X2Power 31M Battery.
Yakima Megawarrior Delete
I removed my Yakima Megawarrior, Corebars, and Timberline towers due to the howling at 60+ mph. For the cost of the system, I could have a Gobi instead which would be more aero, quieter, and look better.
While I like the Gobi Stealth, I'm considering a custom build tailored to my needs. The accessory mounts look wonky and I'm not sure I'd trust my bike racks & bikes to them.
I removed my Yakima Megawarrior, Corebars, and Timberline towers due to the howling at 60+ mph. For the cost of the system, I could have a Gobi instead which would be more aero, quieter, and look better.
While I like the Gobi Stealth, I'm considering a custom build tailored to my needs. The accessory mounts look wonky and I'm not sure I'd trust my bike racks & bikes to them.
LawnDart
Senior Member
Despite signing up for the group buy I wasn't alerted to the group buy process.
So I missed out. I find that my goose gear setup holds all the stuff I want, and I like having those windows be unobstructed. I really like the concept of these, but I'm a tad afraid of putting anything beyond light pouches on them due to the fear of turning gear into missiles in case of a crash.
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Installed Billies on the front. Set at 1.75" (3rd notch). Leveled the truck out nicely. $210 with shipping on Amazon, installed them myself which only took 2 hours, then $80 for an alignment.
Used the non-spring-compressor method. For those interested:
-jack front end up on stands
-undo front bumper cover/skid plate to have better assess to LCA cam/bolts
-remove tire
-take note of spring orientation (I took a picture for reference)
-place stand on rear frame opposite the tire you are working on
-jack up LCA to apply pressure to strut
-undo strut retainer on top of strut
-undo lower ball joint bolts (2)
-Mark position of LCA alignment cams
-loosen LCA bolts
-allow pressure out of jack so spring decompresses (carefully)
-remove lower strut bolt
-remove strut/coil out of the bottom
-assemble and install new strut replicating spring location and orientation that was previously on the truck
-do all of above steps in reverse to reassemble
-**apply red LocTite or equivalent to lower ball joint bolts when putting everything back together**
-go get alignment
I was skeptical about this method. When I let the pressure out of the jack holding up the loaded piston I was actually hiding behind my garbage can in case something went horrible wrong. But everything went amazingly smooth. The only snafu I had was when I was trying to giggle the LCA down, my had was grabbing the UCA and the spring came unseated and jammed my finger between it and the UCA. Other than that, happy with my now leveled out T4R.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Used the non-spring-compressor method. For those interested:
-jack front end up on stands
-undo front bumper cover/skid plate to have better assess to LCA cam/bolts
-remove tire
-take note of spring orientation (I took a picture for reference)
-place stand on rear frame opposite the tire you are working on
-jack up LCA to apply pressure to strut
-undo strut retainer on top of strut
-undo lower ball joint bolts (2)
-Mark position of LCA alignment cams
-loosen LCA bolts
-allow pressure out of jack so spring decompresses (carefully)
-remove lower strut bolt
-remove strut/coil out of the bottom
-assemble and install new strut replicating spring location and orientation that was previously on the truck
-do all of above steps in reverse to reassemble
-**apply red LocTite or equivalent to lower ball joint bolts when putting everything back together**
-go get alignment
I was skeptical about this method. When I let the pressure out of the jack holding up the loaded piston I was actually hiding behind my garbage can in case something went horrible wrong. But everything went amazingly smooth. The only snafu I had was when I was trying to giggle the LCA down, my had was grabbing the UCA and the spring came unseated and jammed my finger between it and the UCA. Other than that, happy with my now leveled out T4R.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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jrandom
New member
I think they are a great idea, if just to keep the dog from licking the window. :biggrin1:
How much do they each weigh? It would seem something as heavy as steel in an application such as this would out of the question for me too personally. I have the same thought about in cabin projectiles, if it did break loose I would want it to flex or fail on impact instead of lacerating anything it came in contact with.
It would be great to see one either thermo molded or waterjet cut from some carbon fiber reinforced plastic type material.
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codyHTX
Member
if you do decide you want to order, the GB turned into a discount code found on page 1 of that thread, and is extended thru the end of September, code is: evan
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