3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
TheDurk
Elite Member
busmup808
New member
Simpler, but more work= more time.Or you could just drop the frame, makes it SO much simpler :bounce:
That picture makes it look easy.
I wish toyota made it like the FJ80/FZJ80. 3 bolts and you can take it off the truck, then take the top nut off!
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theesotericone
New member
The removal was super easy once I gave up on undoing the top nut. After about two minutes I went to the work bench and grabbed my sawzall. I put in a bi-metal blade and cut the old shock right below the bushing. The cut took 20 seconds and the remainder of the shock bolt pushed right up and out.
Tightening the new one was indeed a PIA. Luckily, the ToyTec Boss shocks I got for the rear come with a locking nut for the top. I think I have enough torque on it but knowing that it won't easily back out either way is good piece of mind. So if your rear shocks don't have a locking top nut I'd suggest going to the hardware store and getting one.
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
How long do u think it took u to do this job...
mtbtim
Elite Member
The first time I did it on my truck, it took me quite a while, maybe 8 hours because I was going really slow, labeling everything and taking pictures. I wasn't in any rush. The second time was on [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] rig and it probably took about the same time since we cleaned and painted his valve covers and took extra time to video everything. If you are doing this for the first time, I think it will take anywhere from 5-8 hours. I'm not a fast mechanic because I'm on the anal side of things and want it done right the first time. I really think 5 hours is a reasonable time for someone to do this if they have all the tools and info available to them and there's no guesswork.
theesotericone
New member
I think that's a pretty fair time. It took me 4 hours with a lot of coffee breaks in between. Another 15 minutes to test drive it and another 10 minutes of watching my rear main leak after the drive. I don't know if I've ever looked at an oil leak with such hatred. I was really hoping it was the valve covers. :ybrick:
mtbtim
Elite Member
I was serious about the offer to help pull your trans to do the rear main seal. But, knowing how much work is involved, I guess the oil leak would have to be pretty bad to warrant going in there. However, it would be an awesome DIY video to make.
theesotericone
New member
I was serious about the offer to help pull your trans to do the rear main seal. But, knowing how much work is involved, I guess the oil leak would have to be pretty bad to warrant going in there. However, it would be an awesome DIY video to make.
If I end up doing it I'll let you know. It would make a great how-to. You'd have to edit a lot of it though. Not so much for time but I tend to drop a lot of f-bombs when I'm working. It's really not that bad of a job to do. Just lots of labor. I bet the seal takes all of 5 minutes to press back in. The other 8 hours is pulling the tranny. So for now there's a can of BlueDevil in it and I'll see if that helps.
Next project is the steering rack guide and then a cotter pin in the steering slip joint. I still have this ever so slight vibration at 50-60 that's annoying the shit out of me. Only me though, my wife can't even tell it's there. lol
mtbtim
Elite Member
What about doing the tack weld technique for the steering slip joint? Seems like that might be a better fix for that play.
BTW, I swear a lot too but I've had to control myself when making the videos. We could just shut the camera off and swear like a couple drunk sailors or dudes with a bad case of turrets when something is fighting us and then restart the camera when we've gotten all the frustration out.
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theesotericone
New member
I have a drill and bits. Currently I don't have a welder. I'm pretty sure a 3/16" roll pin will hold it together just fine.
It looks like my next project will be creating a low profile attachment system for my Rola rack. I was gonna go do some wheeling but realized my skids are off cause of this oil leak. Also I just had Amazon drop off a hi-lift and some traction boards. So, I'd like to mount the rack lower then the factory system allows then put those things in it. I had some 7/8" uni-strut laying around and it looks like it creates the perfect height. I'm off to the hardware store to get some stuff to attach it with.
TheDurk
Elite Member
It wasn't a serious post, hence the emoji. Nobody in their right mind would drop the frame to do the shocks.
I was doing a frame swap and made sure to install the shocks before I raised the new frame into place.
busmup808
New member
Yes it would off been crazy if you forgot to install the shocks during the frame swap
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theesotericone
New member
Low pro Rola mounts can now be crossed off the list. Not bad for an hour of my time and 10 bucks in parts. There's about 3/8" clearance from the basket to the roof doing this way. I don't think you can get much lower. I stood in it and shook the vehicle. It's still attached so I'd say the mount points are bomber.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Ok, that sounds better. You originally said cotter pin and I was wondering how the hell that would take any slop out.
I have a tiny bit of play in my steering as well and may do this fix in the future. I guess the downside to a roll pin is maybe the steering won't collapse as designed in a collision where the tack welds will probably give way in a collision.
I was thinking if I did this, I'd just take it to a muffler shop or some other place that welds and ask them to place a coupe tack welds for me. I doubt any place would charge much for this.
mtbtim
Elite Member
CV Axle Reboot w/ Extended Boot Mod and Replacement
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did a CV Axle Reboot of his OEM axles utilizing an Extended Boot Mod we learned online, removed his damaged aftermarket axles and Installed the Rebooted OEM axles.
It's the longest video we've put out yet but it covers the job really well and will hopefully enable you to have the confidence to do it yourself when the time comes.
Here's the video. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did a CV Axle Reboot of his OEM axles utilizing an Extended Boot Mod we learned online, removed his damaged aftermarket axles and Installed the Rebooted OEM axles.
It's the longest video we've put out yet but it covers the job really well and will hopefully enable you to have the confidence to do it yourself when the time comes.
Here's the video. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
theesotericone
New member
Nice man, This vid is so good it gave me the confidence to do it four weeks ago. lol
Just a few things I noticed that I did a little different then you did. I never drained the front diff fluid. I jacked up one side and left the other wheel on the ground. I lost maybe 1/2 ounce of fluid total doing it that way.
Also I never popped the LBJ. I just took out the 4 bolts holding the LBJ to the steering knuckle. I'm not sure which way is better but I didn't have a BJ separator in the garage. So I went the 4 bolt route.
Thanks for taking the time to make all these. They really do give people a very good idea of what they're in for when they decide to tackle certain projects.
mtbtim
Elite Member
We heard of that method of just jacking up one side at a time to save the gear oil but I liked having the whole truck up on stands at one time. Plus, we're not talking a huge waste since it's only a little over 1 quart and it never hurts to have fresh fluid.
I bought that kit of pullers so I try to use them whenever I can but I reckon taking out the 4 ball joint bolts is a bonafide method as well.
theesotericone
New member
I keep thinking of getting a kit like that but I really hope I'm done taking the front end apart for a while now. Plus Oreilly's is at the end of my street and it's hard to beat free specialty tools. lol
mtbtim
Elite Member
Yeah, you're definitely doing it the smarter more economical way but I just like owning tools. Any excuse to buy another tool is a good excuse. Plus, I do like the fact I don't have to visit my local O'Reilly store, wait in line, give them my credit card, take the tool home, use them, clean them up for the next dude, and then return them.
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