Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
thanks bud...have followed you and your input and ideas on this forum for a few years. ( sounds creepy)...thanks for your reply
also i must add...up here...prices are at least 20% more than anything in the lower 48. O rielleys, autozone, napa. I only have one local toy dealer....and the other 300 miles away ....the other dealer is owned by same family group. So toyota parts...at dealer....add 10 to 20%. Funny thing...its owned by the same group in Eugene Oregon...and when I lived in Oregon...they would meet or beat any internet price..Kendal Toyota. And the toyota site that lets you buy parts at a discount...not in alaska or hawaii. And dealers that say free shipping....not to Alaska or Hawaii in small print.
but the fishing and hunting is amazing up here...havent bought red meat or fish in a few years...trade offs I guess
but the fishing and hunting is amazing up here...havent bought red meat or fish in a few years...trade offs I guess
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just checked, outside dimension of tundra rotor 12.5 inch. Inside dimension of flat rate box 12 inches, at least thats the numbers I came up with. As a family member would ship to me from the lower 48 if they would fit. McGeorge wants 156 to ship me two rotors and one set of pads....thats just shipping
Ok. It’s 2022. 20 years since I purchased my 4Runner. 2002 SR5 2 wheel to help you with the math. 
))
Anyway. I finally want to do this. It’s time for me to get my brakes done and feel I should go ahead with this.
There is 80 pages here to go through. Too much to sift through honestly. Can someone help me with the most trouble free way of doing this?
Thank you in advance!
))Anyway. I finally want to do this. It’s time for me to get my brakes done and feel I should go ahead with this.
There is 80 pages here to go through. Too much to sift through honestly. Can someone help me with the most trouble free way of doing this?
Thank you in advance!
The best way would be to read the first 3 posts. It's all covered in there. Part numbers, step by step procedures, all of it.Ok. It’s 2022. 20 years since I purchased my 4Runner. 2002 SR5 2 wheel to help you with the math.
Anyway. I finally want to do this. It’s time for me to get my brakes done and feel I should go ahead with this.
There is 80 pages here to go through. Too much to sift through honestly. Can someone help me with the most trouble free way of doing this?
Thank you in advance!
EDIT: Also be aware that you will have a softer pedal after this. If you don't need the upgraded brakes because you are towing, live in the mountains, or have heavy tires then you don't need this and will likely regret/complain about the softer pedal feel.
brillo_76
Elite Member
From my experience, I use the 199mm calipers as they are only wider then the stock ones. Same brake pads just wider caliper opening and rotor. Feel the same as stock to me on the pedal feel. I personally will only use these ones as my reason for the change was the constant warping of the stock rotors no matter what I did. Others may have different viewpoints.Ok. It’s 2022. 20 years since I purchased my 4Runner. 2002 SR5 2 wheel to help you with the math.
Anyway. I finally want to do this. It’s time for me to get my brakes done and feel I should go ahead with this.
There is 80 pages here to go through. Too much to sift through honestly. Can someone help me with the most trouble free way of doing this?
Thank you in advance!
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
I did the 13WL upgrade this spring. I'd been putting it off, but it was time for a brake job on my 97 SR5. Some (rather long) thoughts:
Toyota has offered a free shipping code for a while now on orders over $75 through their parts center at parts.toyota.com. Looking at pricing from some dealers out of state (like Lewis Toyota in Topeka), the total cost was lower than places I've sourced parts from in the past, like Camelback Toyota or McGeorge Toyota, and after factoring in cost to ship back caliper cores, still lower than local dealers.
Toyota has a reman version of the 13WL 231mm calipers, P/N 47750-0C022-84 for the left and 47730-0C022-84 for the right. Not sure when these became available. Camelback and McGeorge include the reman ones in search results for the non-reman part numbers, but only if the search results aren't filtered for vehicle year and model. There's no vehicle fitment list below the reman caliper description, so if search results are filtered for any year Tundra, the reman part number simply won't show up. The reman part numbers aren't included on the front brake diagram parts list, on any OEM parts site I've looked at.
It was $138 ea on those from Lewis vs $231 ea for new. They're a little less from McGeorge, but no free shipping.
It turned out to be a 6 week backorder on them, though. I don't know what parts availability on new ones would have been.
I replaced the original rubber brake lines with braided stainless ones. StopTech on the fronts, and Wheeler's on the rear. For rubber vacuum caps from Autozone to cap off the hard brake lines, 7/32" turned out to be the best size, though 3/16" and 1/4" sizes worked ok.
I bought a Motive pressure bleeder to use while flushing the old brake fluid. I gave up using the included chain with the j hook hardware, as I had problems getting a good seal with the universal cap on the brake fluid reservoir. I cut a length of stout wire and twisted loops on the ends of it, which fit better under the master cylinder in place of the chain, and allowed the cap to remain centered over the reservoir opening when tightening the hardware.
The bleed screws on the rear drums were plugged with crud, and wouldn't allow brake fluid through. Had to remove them and clean out the bleed screw openings with brake cleaner, a drill bit, and some wire. New rubber caps afterward from the local Toyota dealer were a couple bucks.
When bleeding the rear drums, had a different problem- I kept getting bubbles, no matter how much brake fluid I bled through the lines, on both driver and passenger sides.
The pressure reading on the Motive tank gauge held steady, and I double checked torque on the other brake line connections I'd tightened, so a leak allowing air into the system didn't seem likely. I'd made sure not to let the reservoir run dry, so I didn't think air in the master cylinder was causing it. Though it did make me wonder if air from replacing the rubber brake lines could have worked its way up there.
Posts on a few forums from others with the same symptoms offered some ideas. One was that once the bleed screw is cracked open, air may leak in around the threads as the fluid is bled out, and then be drawn into the fluid at the base of the bleed screw, resulting in the unending stream of small bubbles I was seeing. More so on vehicles with bleed screws like the 4Runner that seal with the flare end, and not with the threads.
I could understand that happening with vacuum bleeders, but less so with pressure bleeders like the Motive. Regardless, that seemed to be the answer. After I backed out a bleed screw partway, applied brake caliper grease to the threads as suggested elsewhere, retightened, and cracked it open again, the bubbles ceased and the brake fluid bled normally.
I'd had the Motive tank pressurized to 15 PSI at first, then 10 PSI, which didn't make a difference. I don't know if using a lower pressure would have changed the bubble situation. Despite my efforts, I couldn't find a spec for pressure bleeding of brake fluid in the FSM.
I'm grateful for the wealth of info posted here over the years. To the OP and others who contributed to this thread, and to the rest of the 3rd gen forum- thanks! I haven't had much to share, but this place has been an invaluable resource.
Toyota has offered a free shipping code for a while now on orders over $75 through their parts center at parts.toyota.com. Looking at pricing from some dealers out of state (like Lewis Toyota in Topeka), the total cost was lower than places I've sourced parts from in the past, like Camelback Toyota or McGeorge Toyota, and after factoring in cost to ship back caliper cores, still lower than local dealers.
Toyota has a reman version of the 13WL 231mm calipers, P/N 47750-0C022-84 for the left and 47730-0C022-84 for the right. Not sure when these became available. Camelback and McGeorge include the reman ones in search results for the non-reman part numbers, but only if the search results aren't filtered for vehicle year and model. There's no vehicle fitment list below the reman caliper description, so if search results are filtered for any year Tundra, the reman part number simply won't show up. The reman part numbers aren't included on the front brake diagram parts list, on any OEM parts site I've looked at.
It was $138 ea on those from Lewis vs $231 ea for new. They're a little less from McGeorge, but no free shipping.
It turned out to be a 6 week backorder on them, though. I don't know what parts availability on new ones would have been.
I replaced the original rubber brake lines with braided stainless ones. StopTech on the fronts, and Wheeler's on the rear. For rubber vacuum caps from Autozone to cap off the hard brake lines, 7/32" turned out to be the best size, though 3/16" and 1/4" sizes worked ok.
I bought a Motive pressure bleeder to use while flushing the old brake fluid. I gave up using the included chain with the j hook hardware, as I had problems getting a good seal with the universal cap on the brake fluid reservoir. I cut a length of stout wire and twisted loops on the ends of it, which fit better under the master cylinder in place of the chain, and allowed the cap to remain centered over the reservoir opening when tightening the hardware.
The bleed screws on the rear drums were plugged with crud, and wouldn't allow brake fluid through. Had to remove them and clean out the bleed screw openings with brake cleaner, a drill bit, and some wire. New rubber caps afterward from the local Toyota dealer were a couple bucks.
When bleeding the rear drums, had a different problem- I kept getting bubbles, no matter how much brake fluid I bled through the lines, on both driver and passenger sides.
The pressure reading on the Motive tank gauge held steady, and I double checked torque on the other brake line connections I'd tightened, so a leak allowing air into the system didn't seem likely. I'd made sure not to let the reservoir run dry, so I didn't think air in the master cylinder was causing it. Though it did make me wonder if air from replacing the rubber brake lines could have worked its way up there.
Posts on a few forums from others with the same symptoms offered some ideas. One was that once the bleed screw is cracked open, air may leak in around the threads as the fluid is bled out, and then be drawn into the fluid at the base of the bleed screw, resulting in the unending stream of small bubbles I was seeing. More so on vehicles with bleed screws like the 4Runner that seal with the flare end, and not with the threads.
I could understand that happening with vacuum bleeders, but less so with pressure bleeders like the Motive. Regardless, that seemed to be the answer. After I backed out a bleed screw partway, applied brake caliper grease to the threads as suggested elsewhere, retightened, and cracked it open again, the bubbles ceased and the brake fluid bled normally.
I'd had the Motive tank pressurized to 15 PSI at first, then 10 PSI, which didn't make a difference. I don't know if using a lower pressure would have changed the bubble situation. Despite my efforts, I couldn't find a spec for pressure bleeding of brake fluid in the FSM.
I'm grateful for the wealth of info posted here over the years. To the OP and others who contributed to this thread, and to the rest of the 3rd gen forum- thanks! I haven't had much to share, but this place has been an invaluable resource.
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The pedal feel doesn't seem much different to me. It's softer, but not to a degree that would be an issue. Though pedal feel is a subjective thing. The brakes do perform better. The vehicle is capable of stopping hard enough to leave rubber on the asphalt, whereas before it had a bad shudder if I tried to stop quickly- it didn't inspire confidence.
But hard to say how much of that is due to larger calipers, and how much is due just to having fresh brakes.
There's been talk in prior posts on this thread of the larger fluid volume of the 13WL calipers, the larger amount of brake fluid required to move the pistons, and the mismatch between that and the smaller capacity of the master cylinder on the 4Runners compared to the Tundras these calipers were made for. In regard to pedal feel, that and another post got me thinking.
Someone in one post described different piston diameters of stock calipers on 3rd gen 4Runners sold with 15 inch and 16 inch wheels. 43mm pistons with the 15's, I think it was stated, compared to 45mm pistons with the 16's. I haven't dug into it to verify those numbers.
But it made me wonder if some of the varying experiences people have reported with soft pedal feel could be due to that- the difference in caliper piston diameter, and slight difference in volume of brake fluid required to move them, going from, in one case, stock calipers on 15 inch wheel rigs with smaller pistons, to the 13WL... versus going from stock calipers on 16 inch wheel rigs to 13WL, where piston diameter was claimed to be the same.
I noticed there are different stock caliper part numbers listed for 1997 4Runners with 15 inch and 16 inch wheels. Haven't looked at other years.
I'll dig into these numbers on piston diameter. I'll edit this post if I find something.
I stand corrected, the rotors will fit in a large flat rate box, if out of their original toyota box
JBurt
Senior Member
I probably should have mentioned that, and if memory serves they barely fit. I'm glad it'll work for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patinthehat View Post
Still new here but I read the whole thread (so no flaming please ) and i just want to double check everything before i start buying parts. please correct anything i have wrong as i am still learning this stuff. i have a '98 Limited so those are the Split 3 spoke wheels which will not clear the 231mm brakes unless you grind the wheels (not recommended at all) or buy a wheel spacer. a 1.25" wheel spacer will work to give you the clearance you need to clear the 231mm brakes. correct?
Yes, the 1.25 spacers will work for ya.
I am currently gathering the parts up to do this upgrade. I want to verify the question and reply I copied and pasted above. I'm not having much luck finding T4r 5 spokes. I have the split 3's. Thanks.
Regards,
CaneCreek
Originally Posted by patinthehat View Post
Still new here but I read the whole thread (so no flaming please ) and i just want to double check everything before i start buying parts. please correct anything i have wrong as i am still learning this stuff. i have a '98 Limited so those are the Split 3 spoke wheels which will not clear the 231mm brakes unless you grind the wheels (not recommended at all) or buy a wheel spacer. a 1.25" wheel spacer will work to give you the clearance you need to clear the 231mm brakes. correct?
Yes, the 1.25 spacers will work for ya.
I am currently gathering the parts up to do this upgrade. I want to verify the question and reply I copied and pasted above. I'm not having much luck finding T4r 5 spokes. I have the split 3's. Thanks.
Regards,
CaneCreek
HeelAndToe85
New member
The split spoke will not clear. I do not like wheel spacers as a permanent solution. You can use a lot of other 16" or 17" OEM Toyota wheels too.
I want to add to the parts list and make a note. One...I just refreshed my TBU that a previous owner did...when at it I replaced my brake hoses. ( stainless) I think anyone should considering adding hoses to your list...these rigs are getting pretty old and a hose can go bad....and actually be bad even if looks good. Some swell when you hit the brakes....i had a rig where the swelling took place inside the hose.....looked totally good....but that one caliper was not bleeding correct.
Are the 231s a scam?
Pulled 199s from local pyp. Bought Centric pads and Rotors. I started to second guess myself and for $150 more I realized I could upgrade to 231s from Napa.
So I ordered the calipers and same line Centric pads from Rock Auto. I was a little shocked when I compared the 199 pads to the 231. They’re the same length (and height) of pad, the backing plates are just longer! Looking at other pictures of 231 pads on rock auto, they all seem to be the same
199 top, 231 bottom.
I’m inclined to ditch the 231s and just use the 199s after seeing this
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm glad someone else posed this question.
It's time for a brake job, and I've been considering the 13WL/231. Fifteen years ago I upgraded to the S13WE/199, but a recent trip across the Sierra Mtns brought back the judder, so wondered if maybe the 13WL will help.
It sure seems the pad contact areas are about the same. Are the 13WLs really better than S13WEs? I pulled the pad images from Toyota dealer, and the drawings from StopTech. I scaled as best I could so HxW is accurate (thickness is off).
I wish the 13WL pads filled the back plate.
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Here's another thread comparing pad sizes: TBU 231mm vs. 199mm Pad Size
I don't think one has an advantage over the other as the brake pad contact surface is roughly the same size, both calipers use the same size pistons, and both calipers use the same thicker rotor. Some people say the S13WE calipers have better clearance when it comes to aftermarket wheels but I can't speak to that.
2000 Limited 4WD 16x7 JJ wheels
Hi all. Any idea if there will be enough room this these wheels for the Tundra upgrade at 231mm? Or will I need a spacer or use the smaller rotor/caliper? Or should I just replace my OEM, factory rotors?
Shared album - Jim Kabage - Google Photos
Thanks in advance!
Jim
Hi all. Any idea if there will be enough room this these wheels for the Tundra upgrade at 231mm? Or will I need a spacer or use the smaller rotor/caliper? Or should I just replace my OEM, factory rotors?
Shared album - Jim Kabage - Google Photos
Thanks in advance!
Jim
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