Passengers side ones I did all from underneath with a lot of extensions and a universal joint or wobbly sockets. even the highest one you can get to, it's just a biatch to reach them

Drivers side was a combination of through the wheel well and underneath with every wrench and socket/extension/universal joint combo I had. They go back in a lot easier than they come out--just make sure to blue loctite them

This is a great write up. I'll be tackling this job soon as I decided to drop a used motor in my '00 and yank the one I started to do the top end rebuild on out.

For those of you that did this job at home, few questions:

1.) Roughly how long did it take you to pull the motor?
2.) Did you already have an engine crane or did you rent one? If so, where from?

I'm leaving next Saturday to go to OBX for a week with the wifey. (Much needed vacation.) Trying to figure out if I should attempt this before I go or not.

Thanks,
PBR

It took me about an hour to pull it, maybe a little more or little less.

I had bought a crane from Harbor Freight for $100 many moons ago.



Mind you that there was no rust or corrosion on any of my bolts. My exhaust manifold bolts were perfect and I left everything on the engine. I unplugged the wire harness from the body, pulled the radiator and I removed my hood.


BTW, I have used the crane countless times and it has paid for itself 10 times over.

I'm so glad you're back! Thanks man. Any tips for getting to the bell housing bolts?

It took me about 1.5 days of work to get it out and about the same putting it back in. I could probably do it in a day if I had to do it again.

Already had a hoist

and got it out in an hour? really?

Yep. The dude that bought my motor was sitting there waiting for me to get out and load it into his 2nd Gen 4runner.



Bell housing bolts. I used a long extenstion with a universal socket. Worked like a champ.





While i was under the 4runner, i removed the wire harness to the transmission and transfer case, torque converter bolts, exhaust manifold bolt and ADD harness.

I think I wasted a few hours trying to get all the transmission wiring harness connectors off. I finally said screw it and just pulled the intake off and took the whole wiring harness off the engine.

Yeah I ordered some impact swivel sockets after taking it out, just to help putting it back together. Pretty sure I would have saved a few hours if I had had them when it was coming out.

yes this is the only thing i've found on 3.4 engine removal. So im ready to rip mine out, everything's loose but I cant seem to get the tranny to break free. Trying to pull motor and leave tranny, any suggestions? Is the dam thing spot welded in there or what?

Registered to say Awesome thread! Pulled out my tired ol 3.4 and installed a reman from oregon engines last week. Just finished yesterday and she's purring beautifully! This was my first auto engine R+R and this thread, basic hand tools, and an engine lift was all I needed. Took about 5 days because as I was dismantling the old engine I cleaned and repainted everything I could. Also took apart and or cleaned everything (IAC, MAF, TB, etc). Threw in a new radiator, hoses to and from tranny and radiator, starter, T belt, oil and water pump, ALL SEALS, and external tranny cooler. The engine is pretty much brand new and runs great. Idle is a little high around 1300, but I'll put a couple miles on her and see if she settles down.

Good job, but why didnt you just disconnect the harness from the ECU and pull it out the firewall? It's a much easier way....

I got stuck at pulling the bolts for the inspection plate to get to the fly wheel bolts. Haven't had time to get back in there.

The upper driver side bolt was a pita! Ended up using 2 universals to snake around and get it. When I was installing it I found you can reach your arm up and around and get at it from the back, unless you have some Gorilla forearms. Good luck!

Got my engine out today - frankly armed with 2 universal sockets and wobbly extensions, the bell housing bolts are very easy.

These are the tools I got specifically for the job and they worked out great:
Amazon.com: Ampro A5591 7 Piece 1/2-Inch Drive Flex Impact Socket Set: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Sunex 2300 1/2-Inch Drive Universal Joint Impact Socket: Home Improvement
Sunex 2504 1/2-Inch Wobble Drive Extensions Impact Set,4 Piece - Amazon.com

The biggest problem I had was getting the engine to separate from the transmission. The input shaft just wouldn't slide out of the clutch. The trans was jacked up and we tried to allow it to match the angle of the raised engine as best as we could, but still getting the two to separate was hard enough to make me uncertain that I'd be able to put them back together.

So - any suggestions on how to deal with the shaft when putting a manual engine back in?

[QUOTE=agloukhoff;1164472]Got my engine out today - frankly armed with 2 universal sockets and wobbly extensions, the bell housing bolts are very easy.

These are the tools I got specifically for the job and they worked out great:
Amazon.com: Ampro A5591 7 Piece 1/2-Inch Drive Flex Impact Socket Set: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Sunex 2300 1/2-Inch Drive Universal Joint Impact Socket: Home Improvement
Sunex 2504 1/2-Inch Wobble Drive Extensions Impact Set,4 Piece - Amazon.com

My JDM engine should be here in a week or so, so I want to get all of the tools etc. together I'll need to do the job! I think I'm going to buy the flexible sockets... everyone that tackled the tranny bolts says it'll make life easier.... I dare say I'll need all the help I can get! Did anyone try and detach the AC compressor and leave it in, when they pulled the engine, or am I just asking for a bunch of aggravation....? Any feedback would be appreciated!!

[QUOTE=poleclimber63;1636783] Leave the compressor in..... Did this swap not two months ago....