01-19-2012, 03:33 PM
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#1
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crankshaft damaged?
Hi, I don't post much, but I really need some help/insight and maybe someone else will find this post useful later down the road too.
98 3.4L 5spd. with 137k.
My runner stalled out while driving. pushed it to the side of the road and popped the hood. I noticed that the crankshaft pulley was cockeyed, leaning to the side, but still hanging on by the belts. got it towed to my house, and upon closer inspection, I was able to remove the bolt that holds the pulley with my HAND. Thats when my stomach sank. So, I got the pulley off, and took a look at it...the channel that runs along the inside of the pulley was not looking good... It isn't straight like it should be. And, on the crankshaft, the piece (Woodruff?) that aligns the crankshaft pulley was no longer there.
I took 3 pics. One of the new and old pulleys and one of the mounting surface on the crankshaft. I fear that since the woodruff is "gone" that I'm SOL and I might have to spring for a new crankshaft.
[IMG] /[/IMG]
[IMG] /[/IMG]
[IMG] /[/IMG]
thoughts? Insight? all is GREATLY appreciated and I thank you in advance
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98 4Runner / 5 spd / 3.4L
98 Civic HX / 5 spd / 1.6L
Last edited by denverunner; 01-19-2012 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: dang photo links not working GRRRR>
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01-19-2012, 03:43 PM
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#2
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Can't see the pics. But you need to know the Woodruff key is 90% under the timing gear and only engages the pulley for maybe a quarter of an inch at the rear. If the loose timing gear slid forward just a little bit, the key could easily be completely hidden by the gear. To evaluate the situation, you need to pull the timing gear and look at the key and its channel. Second, you need to check the crankshaft end for roundness so that a new pulley will sit solidly if the old one is replaced. Third, you need to verify the condition of the threads in the end of the shaft. If all these are good, you can get by with a new key, bolt, and pulley.
EDIT: Now the pics are showing up. Pulley is FUBARED, of course. You do need to pull the timing gear. It may have moved forward or the end may have been sheered at the channel. I can't tell. The key has been eaten at the end by the pulley but the key can be replaced if the channel it sits in is ok. How does the pulley sit on the end of the crank? Is there any wobble? If not, a new key, pulley and bolt might do it. The crank end is scored but still looks round and I see no damage to the threads. Does a bolt go in and out? I'd say it is worth a try if the new pulley has no wobble and the key channel looks ok when you get the gear off.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 01-19-2012 at 03:58 PM.
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01-19-2012, 03:55 PM
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#3
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pics should be visible now....
I will check to see if the timing pulley slid forward and also inspect the channel. The threads on the crankshaft appear to be good, no visual damage. I removed the radiator and fan so I could really get good look.
Updates to follow..... thanks durk!
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98 4Runner / 5 spd / 3.4L
98 Civic HX / 5 spd / 1.6L
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01-19-2012, 04:11 PM
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#4
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I had a similar experience with my harmonic balancer. But it was chewed up was worse than yours was. The woodruff key did look like yours though.
You can replace the wookruff key and the harmonic balancer and it might fix the problem. The woodruff keys aren't to pricey but a new HB is rediculous unless you get one from a part out rig.
To replace the woodruff key you can get a gear puller that will screw into the timing gear/sproket and pull it off the crankshaft. Then the key will just pull out.
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97 4runner limited, Toytec ultimate lift, 285/75 r16 duratrac, ISR mod, deckplate mod, airflow snorkel,1" diff drop, custom roof rack,Dual red top optimas w national luna solenoid, custom tube bumpers Front and rear with tire carrier, smittybuilt xrc 10000lb winch, synthetic rope, Cobra CB w 4' firestick, Rear e-locker retrofit, Manual hubs, Tundra brakes, 99 Console and head lights. Budbuilt ifs skid
Future mods. custom skids, custom sliders, tube doors, quality offroad lights lol...
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01-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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#5
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The same thing happened to me. I had to roll my truck to a shop and have them pull the timing gear. It took the guy 45mins - 1hr. They had to heat up the timing gear with a torch and hit it with a brass hammer to get it to break free. (after flooding it with PB blaster for 24 hours) Once the timing gear and woodruff key came loose i had to buy a new timing gear thru toyota and get a new key. at that point i replaced the timing belt and everything went back together fine.
My woodruff key looked the same
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Last edited by ryankmasuda; 01-19-2012 at 05:54 PM.
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01-20-2012, 02:51 PM
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#6
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Any idea what would cause this to happen?? Just curious.
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01-20-2012, 02:57 PM
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#7
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I think mine was caused by when I hydro locked the engine, But im not sure
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97 4runner limited, Toytec ultimate lift, 285/75 r16 duratrac, ISR mod, deckplate mod, airflow snorkel,1" diff drop, custom roof rack,Dual red top optimas w national luna solenoid, custom tube bumpers Front and rear with tire carrier, smittybuilt xrc 10000lb winch, synthetic rope, Cobra CB w 4' firestick, Rear e-locker retrofit, Manual hubs, Tundra brakes, 99 Console and head lights. Budbuilt ifs skid
Future mods. custom skids, custom sliders, tube doors, quality offroad lights lol...
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01-20-2012, 05:12 PM
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#8
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My crank shaft bolt had come loose and was about half way out allowing the harmonic balancer to back off the woodruff key and basically grind down the woodruff key and gouge the HB. I believe it's from the crank shaft bolt not being torqued to spec. It happened at about 130k so its also possible that it just worked itself loose in that time frame.
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1999 T4R SR5 4WD [Nitro 4.88 Gears][Aussie Lockers Front & Rear][ARB Snorkel][231mm Tundra Brakes][Light Racing Adjustable UCA][Tacoma Manual Locking Hubs][Bilstein 5100/Toytec 650lb Coils][Tokiko FJ80 Shocks/OME 2861 Coils][JDM Field Monitor][AOR Hybrid Rear Bumper][HNC Hybrid Front Bumper][Treadwright 315/70R17 Guard Dog]
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01-20-2012, 06:21 PM
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#9
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Why this happens IMHO:
A: not getting a new crankshaft bolt when replacing the TB/H20 pump. $10~15 dollars saves a lot of headache.
B: not torquing the bolt to 217ft/lbs.
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01-20-2012, 06:35 PM
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#10
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Two things...
1. Digging into this on Sunday, so hope to have it all resolved by sundown. got a new bolt, new key, new pulley, new belts, the whole 9 yards. I wasn't happy about shelling out $280 for a new pulley, but it's a discount compared to the local stealer's price of $400
2. I didn't want to point fingers, but I did some digging through the previous owner's records. Turns out that they had the tbelt done at a firestone service center in littleton. My guess is that the tech didn't replace the crankshaft pulley bolt when swapping the tbelt and I'm thinking that they also didn't torque it correctly. I can't say for sure, but it seems to be the only plausible explanation.
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98 Civic HX / 5 spd / 1.6L
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01-20-2012, 06:42 PM
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#11
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Good luck denverunner. $280 is not a bad price for the HB.
Firestone is good for tires, ok for oil changes and alignments, and not stellar for much else.
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01-21-2012, 02:19 AM
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#12
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$280 is terrible.. you might have to park in the handicap after getting screwed over that bad.. lol only kidding.
Just curious why didn't you get a HB out of a wrecked runner or part out? You could have saved sooo much money.
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97 4runner limited, Toytec ultimate lift, 285/75 r16 duratrac, ISR mod, deckplate mod, airflow snorkel,1" diff drop, custom roof rack,Dual red top optimas w national luna solenoid, custom tube bumpers Front and rear with tire carrier, smittybuilt xrc 10000lb winch, synthetic rope, Cobra CB w 4' firestick, Rear e-locker retrofit, Manual hubs, Tundra brakes, 99 Console and head lights. Budbuilt ifs skid
Future mods. custom skids, custom sliders, tube doors, quality offroad lights lol...
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01-24-2012, 03:40 PM
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#13
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I suppose I could have pulled one from another runner, but.... I dunno. I don't have a whole lotta free time on my hands these days and I plan on keeping this thing as long as I can. I guess I just feel more comfortable buying a new one.
I got mine from www.1sttoyotaparts.com (cheaper than trd4u!)
UPDATE:
I pulled the timing gear and destroyed it in the process of removing it. If you ever have to remove it, be EXTREMELY careful, the larger diameter side of it (facing the engine) bends VERY easily and the little teeth will break off. Also, take care not to damage the crankshaft seal behind the timing gear, when prying off the gear.
I ran outta time this morning before wrappign up to get ready for work, but at this point, all I need to do is remove the old woodruff and put everything back together. crankshaft seems to be okay... thoughts?
just waiting on a new timing gear to show up before I put everything back together
To wrap up, I'm about $500 deep in this with parts/fluids. Thats less than half what the stealer would charge for the work/parts, but it's jus frustrating because something like this SHOULDN'T happen.
MORAL OF THE STORY: Don't cut corners to save a few bux on your timing belt service. Do it yourself or take it to an authorized toyota service center
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98 4Runner / 5 spd / 3.4L
98 Civic HX / 5 spd / 1.6L
Last edited by denverunner; 01-24-2012 at 04:04 PM.
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01-24-2012, 05:34 PM
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#14
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yeah I did the same thing. luckily the timing gear is cheaper than the timing pulley.
There is a tool that pulls it off. It bolts into the timing gear and pushes off the crankshaft to pull the gear off. That was the only way I got mine off.
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97 4runner limited, Toytec ultimate lift, 285/75 r16 duratrac, ISR mod, deckplate mod, airflow snorkel,1" diff drop, custom roof rack,Dual red top optimas w national luna solenoid, custom tube bumpers Front and rear with tire carrier, smittybuilt xrc 10000lb winch, synthetic rope, Cobra CB w 4' firestick, Rear e-locker retrofit, Manual hubs, Tundra brakes, 99 Console and head lights. Budbuilt ifs skid
Future mods. custom skids, custom sliders, tube doors, quality offroad lights lol...
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01-24-2012, 07:58 PM
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#15
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Slightly related - if the dealer did not replace my bolt two years ago is this something I should have done now?
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