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Old 03-03-2012, 02:51 AM #1
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Post Sound Deadening Tutroial & Body Panel Removal for 3rd Gen 4runner.

Hey guys!
New to the forums, but have been lurking for a little while.
Just recently picked up a 2000 4Runner Limited about 4 months ago with 136k miles for $6600.

Absolutely LOVE this thing, especially coming from an 96' Ford Ranger.
Anyways, I decided to go all out, and strip the entire interior, sans the dash, to add sound deadening and sound barrier material (closed cell foam, as well as MLV). And at the same time, I installed a new sound system.

Since I have found TONS of info and tutorials on here, I figured I'd give back to the community, and try to help some with this mini tutorial.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
By following this tutorial, I take no responsibility if you break anything on your vehicle.
This is here solely as a guide, and by following it, you're doing so at your own risk.


WORK IN PROGRESS

To start, I used RAMMaudio products: RAAMmat BXT II, and their Ensolite closed-cell foam. On top of this, albeit going a bit overboard, I also bought some MLV (mass loaded vinyl) to apply to all of the floor sections (will dive in a bit further about this later).

Go check out RAAMaudios products:
RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products

Rick over there is absolutely fantastic, and thanks to him, made the process of this modification much easier. He even sent me a step by step guide for each panel area specific to the 4 runner, which I will share with you.

Items needed for ONLY the doors:
- 1 pack of BXT II Sound Deadening Material (or equivalent material) (RAAMmat BXT II - RAAMaudio Inc.)
- 2 yards of Ensolite Closed-Cell Foam (or equivalent material) (Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick - RAAMaudio Inc. OR Ensolite IUO - RAAMaudio Inc.)
- 1 can of V&S Spray Adhesive if you buy the NON PEEL AND STICK TYPE (V&S Spray Adhesive - RAAMaudio Inc.)

Items needed for ENTIRE vehicle (including doors):
- 2.5 pack of BXT II Sound Deadening Material (or equivalent material) (RAAMmat BXT II - RAAMaudio Inc.)
- 8 yards of Ensolite Closed-Cell Foam (or equivalent material) (Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick - RAAMaudio Inc. OR Ensolite IUO - RAAMaudio Inc.)
- 3 cans of V&S Spray Adhesive if you buy the NON PEEL AND STICK TYPE (V&S Spray Adhesive - RAAMaudio Inc.)

Optional for entire vehicle:
- 6 feet of Mass Loaded Vinyl (Mass Loaded Vinyl 4'W (per foot)-Super Soundproofing, Co.)
I bought from Super Soundproofing, because their price was cheaper than others, and they actually had a store within 20 minutes from me (main reason). But you can purchase this from anywhere.
This is just one extra step to help further sound proof the car. I figured if I already had my cars interior apart, I mind as well go all out.

Tools/Supplies:
- Screw Drivers (phillips and flathead)
- Utility Knife (any will do, this is used to cut the BXT II and MLV)
- Scissors (to cut the Ensolite foam)
- Roller (to help apply the BXT II) I used this one: Amazon.com: MARSHALLTOWN The Premier Line E54D 2-Inch Flat Commercial Grade Solid Rubber Seam Roller with DuraSoft Handle: Home Improvement
- Ziplock Bags (to place loose screws in)
- Sharpie (to label said bags)
- Packing or Masking Tape (to tape bags to the actual interior panel)

If you plan on doing more than just the doors you'll also need:
- Socket Wrench and Sockets (10, 12, and 14)
- 12mm Wrench
- Patience. Lots of it.

Just to give a heads up, this took me six straight 12+ hour days to complete (including new sound system installation). I did it all at once, and it was extremely tiring. I'd suggest breaking it up over a couple of weekends. This was my first time pulling the interior apart and installing sound deadening material, so I'm sure I'd be a bit quicker my 2nd time, but still takes longer than you think.
Also the doors take the LONGEST. First door took me 4 hours to install everything, and I was able to shave an hour off the passenger front door. Rear doors are a little easier to do since they're smaller.

Okay, to start, you need to decide if you'll be doing only the doors, or if you'll be doing the entire vehicle (I had great results by the way doing my entire 4runner! Very quiet cabin now). I'll start with the doors, since if you'll be doing this, this is a must not only for road noise, but to improve the sound quality from your speakers.

Door Removal:
Step 1: To remove the doors, there are 3 screws, and two fasteners.
One screw at the door handle, and the other two under the arm rest.
Simply give a tug up on the arm rest, and it will unsnap, revealing the two screws.
Remove these 3 screws.




The two circular fasteners are on the top edges of each door.
Push in the center circle, and then pull them out.
Pushing the center circle in, releases the fastener.


Step 2: Now, remove the black tweeter bezel/enclosure near the side mirror.
Pull from the top point, and it'll snap out.

Step 3: Then, starting at the very bottom of the panel, give a tug around all of the edges and this will release all of the clips holding it in place.

Step 4: Now slide the door handle FORWARD towards the front of the car, to release it from being snapped in place.
Lift the panel upwards gently, so that it clears itself from the window frame.
Instead of removing the door handle, just turn the door almost 90 degrees, and slide the handle through the opening.
Keep in mind there are 2 to 3 connections still attached to the door! So be gentle.

Step 5: After you get the door handle free, set the door panel on the window frame to hold it in place, while you reach underneath and disconnect all of the connectors (windows, locks, etc).

Once the connectors are removed, you can now put the door panel aside.
What I did was laid out the entire inside of my vehicle in my garage, in the same positions they belong.
This makes it easier when reassembling.

Ignore the mess, that's my ghetto paint booth. Just finished up priming another project.


With the Door Panel off and Speaker pulled out.

Coverage:
This is coming straight from Rick over at RAAMaudio for his recommended coverage for a 4runner.
I will post his instructions, along with the photos I took of my installation.
My personal notes are in GREEN.


1) Rear floor, 100% covered with BXT II and then PS Ensolite, go back and add a second layer of BXT II over the ensolite, middle of the floor, two sheets will do, then one more PS Ensolite over it. It is horribly resonant, worst floor I have ever worked on besides the rear of a Vette.
The rear hatch carpet is attached to the rear seats. In order to take the carpet out, you have to remove the rear hatch step panel (end of carper) and then unbolt the rear seats.There was a piece of sound barrier material under the carpet in mine, but I just tossed it.



2) Rear wheel wells, 100% coverage with both products.
I tried two different methods in installing the sound deadening over the wheel wells. One where I took a whole sheet and laid it completely over it, and the other way, cutting pieces to go on it. One a half circle/oval to go on the side, and then a long piece to cover the top. Cutting of the pieces worked better IMO.



3) Rear sides, middle of larger surface areas(outer skin) with BXT II, 50% coverage is fine. 100% coverage of every single surface you can get to with the PS Ensolite, this is a critical step.
To remove the rear sides, you actually need to unbolt the rear seat belts, and then snap off the panel where the seat belt comes through. Pull the seat belt THROUGH that panel (it's tight, but it'll fit) and then you have to remove the back panel across the roof that the dome light is mounted to. This requires removing the dome light (pop the panel, and then unscrew it from the roof) and pulling the roof panel off. There is then a screw going into the roof for each side panel.

You can now pull the side panel off. Lot's of work just to get behind there, but it is critical to cover this area.






4) Tailgate, on the back of the trim panel, 50% coverage, middle sections covered, edges not needed, BXT II and then every section with PS Ensolite.
I put minimal amounts of sound deadening on the tailgate itself, as it wasn't resonate at all. The parts that were (the black panels) I did put some on. However, I covered the entire backside of the actual hatch panel with PS Ensolite. I removed the stock foam first, put TWO layers down, and then put the foam back on.


5) Doors, per the HOW TO guide but 50-60% BXT II focused behind speakers, sealing up access holes, middle of the the outer sheet metal(door skins), PS only a small patch behind each speaker the the rest of the door per the guide including some work on the door panels.
These are the BIGGEST hassle to do. First door took me 2 hours to completely cover with both materials, 2nd door I shaved a half hour off. The rear doors I did in an hour for each one. I suggest doing a door, and then working on another area. Don't do all doors at once, or you'll wear yourself out. Put an ENTIRE layer of sound deadening on the outer shell. Then cover as much as you can on the inner shell, without interfering with anything. Place a square/rectangular piece of PS Ensolite directly behind the speaker as noted aboce. Only one layer! Now cover the entire inner shell with PS Ensolite. Also cover the backside of the door panel with PS Ensolite. Everywhere you can get it. This probably overkill, but provides double protection.


6) Rest of the floor, 50-60% coverage with BXT II, on the softer more resonate areas, hard areas do not need it. 100% with PS.
The front and rear seat floor already had sound deadening material in place. Don't waste any of the material here. Place it in areas where resonate (the transmission tunnel, etc). Place pieces of cut MLV like "Floor Mats" on top of everything for both the front and rear seat floors.

7) Firewall, kick panels, as the floor, and seal up the access holes in the kick panels with both products.
My vehicle already had sound barrier (MLV?) material against the firewall. I only put sound deadening where it was resonate, and then layered as much as I possible could with PS Ensolite. When you pull the kick panels off, you'll notice theres a piece of yellowish foam stuffed in the body panel. Pull this out, and replace with as much PS Ensolite as you can. Shove it upwards too, as it's kind of a "tunnel" there. Also on the backside of the kick panel, layer it with PS Ensolite.

8) Line all you can under the dash with PS.
I couldn't get any up in my dash, as the space that I had, I installed my crossovers there. But if you find somewhere where there's space, be my guest to place some there!

9) Get a dash mat, try some towels laid out nicely and hear the difference in the audio and road noise, dash mats are great
No dash mat for me, but feel free to use one if you'd like.

10) Inside dash, wad up some regular ensolite, loosely so many surface areas, stuff around inside the dash, not too tight, allow air to flow, etc, helps with engine noise, etc.....
Again, didn't have room for this unfortunately!

Other Areas:
- For the jack stand area, I used as much sound deadening material in there as I could, and then I used layers and layers of PS Ensolite and MLV to fill in the void and help give the carpet some structure.

- The roof. I wouldn't bother pulling the roof panel off. The clips in the back have a HUGE tendency to break, and there is already padding/foam from the factory. You also have to pull the top sun roof storage/mirror down and remove the sun roof trim. The only time you'd notice a difference (I think) is when it's raining. The rain drops wouldn't be as loud from the sound deadening. Way too much work for not much of a result.


Continued below...
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:51 AM #2
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SIDE NOTE: For any of the panels that came off, and there was space to place PS Enolite, I put as many layers as I could (most could only take one, but some areas I could roll some up and glue it down there).


Rear Hatch Side Panels


Rear Hatch Panel.

Advice:
- Use a piece of unsued wood (at least a foot wide) to cut the sound deadening material on. I suppose cardboard would work too, just not as sturdy and will be cut through.
- Use your finger nail to mark the sound deadening material when needing to cut the material. Hold it up to the are that you need to cut for, then mark the sound deadening foil with your nail. Now you can cut it to fit, without guessing.
- If you use the PS Ensolite that has to be sprayed on, WEAR GLOVES! That stuff it sticky and messy.

There's still more to be added!!
But I have been promising this to a handful of people, so wanted to get it up.
Please VIEW THIS PHOTO ALBUM. I have ALL of the photos I took in there for you to view.

Also, if any of you want me to take a video on how to remove a certain body panel, or how I cut/installed the sound deadening material, just let me know! I'd be happy to do so.

ASK AS MANY QUESTIONS AS YOU WANT TOO!
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:55 AM #3
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Thank you!
Your efforts are amazing. I hope it sounds as good as it looks.

How many hours into the whole project?

Makes my dynamat effort look like a hack job.

Nice work.
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:24 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 004runnerLtd View Post
Just to give a heads up, this took me six straight 12+ hour days to complete (including new sound system installation). I did it all at once, and it was extremely tiring.
Ive been thinking about this for a while now. How much of a difference is there now? did you just hop into a top of the line Mercedes or does it leave something more to be desired? I know its still a 4Runner but am curious how you feel about the amount of effort vs the outcome.
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:17 AM #5
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Quote:
How much of a difference is there now?
Have you ever ridden a Mercedes? Imagine that, now 3x quieter! This is sound deadening overkill! I thought I had gone crazy in my Focus with sound deadener! Sound deadening the doors makes a 100% improvement in the sound of the stereo. The sound stays in the vehicle, instead of blasting out to the world. I loved it because I would turn it up loud enough to hurt your ears, and you could barely hear it outside the car from 10 feet away.

I did sound deadening on the outer body panel, with a double layer of the mat ( didn't use any foam for mine) behind th speaker. Then I filled in all the access holes, including the giant one. This makes the door act like a speaker box for your door speakers, and really improves the depth of sound that you can get out of a set of amped compenent speakers. You should try popping the door panels off again and adding another layer to the inner metal part of the door.

Great write-up. Please keep us updated on the stereo install.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:43 AM #6
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Been waiting for this tutorial for a long time. Thank you so much. 6x 12 hour days??? HOLY CRAP! Lol. And then a tutorial on top of it? You rock, sir.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:07 PM #7
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thats is great and would love to do this because mine it loud on the highway. how much did all the stuff set you back?
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:18 AM #8
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Wow, awesome write up! Kudos to you.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:49 AM #9
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Great writeup! I plan on doing the doors when I install speakers, and whatever panels are needed to get rid of any squeaks/rattles that remain. Won't be going to this extent, but greatly appreciate the writeup, thanks!
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:02 PM #10
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Great write up! How did you do the firewall? Did you take out the dash?
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:16 PM #11
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Great write up. I did this mod in 2007 based on a thread @ YotaTech.

I just used cheap roofing material but I like what you have done.

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Old 03-12-2012, 02:58 PM #12
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Sorry for the delay in responding to this!! Life has been hectic.
But thanks for the positive response everyone! Makes writing this up worth it.

Keep asking the questions!
As I said in my other post, I'd gladly take extra photos or even a video if someone has questions about a certain coverage area.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearded Cabbage View Post
Thank you!
Your efforts are amazing. I hope it sounds as good as it looks.

How many hours into the whole project?

Makes my dynamat effort look like a hack job.

Nice work.
Thank you! Appreciate it.
It took roughly six 12+ hour days. But that's including a new sound system, with amp. Lots and lots of work, so I'd recommend splitting it up over a few weekends.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWRunner View Post
Ive been thinking about this for a while now. How much of a difference is there now? did you just hop into a top of the line Mercedes or does it leave something more to be desired? I know its still a 4Runner but am curious how you feel about the amount of effort vs the outcome.
HUGE difference! It's pretty ridiculous. Of course, there's still road noise, but at 70+ mph you can still whisper. I mean, a loud whisper, but still pretty darn quite. Don't expect it to be dead silent! You have single pane windows, and still areas where noise can creep in. But it really did help out a lot. And for the cost, it was well worth it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow247 View Post
Great write-up. Please keep us updated on the stereo install.
Will do! Perhaps I'll make another mini-tutorial for my stereo install at some point. I installed Polk Audio 6.5in component MMs front and and 5in. MM coaxials in the back, juiced by a Alpine amp. All 4 doors required some modification, including the tweeter area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by absalom View Post
Been waiting for this tutorial for a long time. Thank you so much. 6x 12 hour days??? HOLY CRAP! Lol. And then a tutorial on top of it? You rock, sir.
Thank you.
Yeah, I was completely worn out by the end of this. But now when I drive around, I can't decide if I want to drive in silence, or blast my new sound system. What a tough life.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thorridder View Post
thats is great and would love to do this because mine it loud on the highway. how much did all the stuff set you back?
Meant to include this in the post!
It was roughly $350 for everything form RAAMaudio (including cans of spray adhesive if you get the non peel and stick Ensolite. Shipping included in that estimate). Another $50 for 6 feet of MLV. Overkill, but still an option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobiker View Post
Great write up! How did you do the firewall? Did you take out the dash?
I didn't pull the dash out, as that seems like a ridiculous amount of work, since there's already sound barrier material on the firewall from the factory, and also putting the whole dash back together afterwards, stuff just wouldn't fit the same (i.e. worried something wouldn't work properly).
What I did was pulled the carpet out, then stuck sound deadening material where needed on the firewall behind the rubber barrier there, then shoved Ensolite everywhere I could behind the barrier as well. Just watch out for the gas pedal, don't stick too much material there otherwise you'll limit the full-throttle capacity.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:02 PM #13
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Can you post a video of the decibel levels at 60 and 75mph on the freeway?

I know android and apple have several free apps.

I did this mod and I am curious to know how much quieter your install is.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:27 PM #14
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This is freakin awesome. You definitely need to make a tutorial now on installing your sound system and then post a video of how it sounds. I'm jelly that's for sure. How much additional weight do you think all this stuff added if you had to guess? Do you think added weight to the doors will make them sag over time? Also, would sticking this stuff to the inside of the interior panels make the clips that secure them to the body more prone to breaking and thus panels coming loose?

I want to ride in your 4runner!
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Last edited by madbomber08; 03-12-2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:31 PM #15
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When you did the doors I saw that you removed the factory plastic between the door and panel.

Are you worried about water getting through the window weather stripping and possibly getting on the inside of the particle board door panel?

Or did you re-install the plastic over the material?
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