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Old 03-17-2013, 08:50 PM #76
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PICTURES BY @mikebontoft









And this is WAYNE'S WORLD!!! That 4R was on 37's and had to winch out!!

Last edited by smkd13; 08-13-2013 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:34 PM #77
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Classic to 3rd Gen...now that's a good bunch. It also looks like a good time you guys had out on the trails.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:30 AM #78
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Great pics man, it looks like you guys had a good day out there.

How did the new locker treat you? (congrats on that upgrade, btw)

It's crazy all the 'wheeling pics that got posted tonight in peoples threads. I guess spring fever is kicking in. I know I can't wait to get outside.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:32 AM #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay View Post
Great pics man, it looks like you guys had a good day out there.

How did the new locker treat you? (congrats on that upgrade, btw)

It's crazy all the 'wheeling pics that got posted tonight in peoples threads. I guess spring fever is kicking in. I know I can't wait to get outside.
funny enough i actually don't have it yet lol I ordered it on friday but should have it in sometime at the beginning of April. Honestly, even without the locker I did pretty well. only got hung up once but that was like the first obstacle we came too. after that i got the hang of my truck and kinda have a better understand of how it will act offroad... with a locker though it would definitely make some harder lines possible

hell yea a lot of people went out this weekend. it was the first day of the year that was actually warm, kicked on the AC for the first time too lol. I haven't had AC in a car since 2007 lol and I cant wait to meet all you guys in MOAB!!!
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:38 AM #80
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and yeah yea i know i double+ post a lot lol



well went and helped my buddy with his truck today. Got to get my weld on and well honestly impressed by the Lincoln 140 w/ flux-core. I just welded the new hanger brackets on my buddies truck for him. not too shabby for self taught but definitely getting better.

sorry they are all cellphone pic as are all of my pictures





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Old 03-18-2013, 06:47 PM #81
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I was reading through your build, the rig is coming along nicely. For the rear you are running the superflex coils and trim packer? Also what is your hub to fender measurement, is there any weight back there? Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:00 PM #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtbike250x View Post
I was reading through your build, the rig is coming along nicely. For the rear you are running the superflex coils and trim packer? Also what is your hub to fender measurement, is there any weight back there? Thanks.
I just ordered the trim packer and i have adjusted the coilovers on the front and have tried adusting them several times and could not get it to level. So thinking about it, I took and using a bottle jack raised the rear from the LCA bracket frameside and raised it up about 3/8" to 1/2" and it leveled out. I strongly think the body is leveled from the rear springs.

as for the hub to fender it is off by and inch driver to passenger.

FL - 22.75
FR - 23.75

RL - 23.25
RR - 24.5

and no there was just the spare tire but now that is removed.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:56 AM #83
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Ok so installed the trim packer today and got all the measurements up by about 3/4 of an inch. This makes it sit almost level just off my 1/4 inch now.


(Yes I know. Rust. I am slowly getting it all off. Just waiting for the summer to pull the axle and do it all.)

And another thing that adds to this is that my frame is out of square. I have an alignment done and I have a setback of almost 1" on the drivers tire. It will be going to a body shop next week to have it measured and then quote to put it back into spec. Gotta get this done before anything else. But locker is still a go and so are sliders. But probably not the bumpers or skids till after Moab. Little speed bump is all this is to me
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:00 AM #84
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Pictures my man! Any at all? It's not a proper build without the progress pics! :
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:09 PM #85
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Well this showed up today so look for a very detail installation tomorrow or the next

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Old 03-23-2013, 05:41 AM #86
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Quote:
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Well this showed up today so look for a very detail installation tomorrow or the next

Gggjwis that for thr rear or front?
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:40 AM #87
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Your welds look clean and solid for flux core, nicely done on those hangers!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mien4x4 View Post
Gggjwis that for thr rear or front?
Its for his rear axle.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:36 PM #88
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Your welds look clean and solid for flux core, nicely done on those hangers!
Thanks bud. Shit is hard cause it is like stick welding and mug all at the same time lol
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:34 AM #89
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Ok, so I spent the better part of the day installing this Lock-Right locker into my truck. Process is easy but time consuming. But here is my write up on how to install it:

The first step that you have to do is to chalk your wheels and jack up the rear (just enough to get the tires off the ground.)

Also drain out your fluid at this time as well.

If you don't chalk then your truck will more than likely start to roll away on you. but after it is chalked the first thing would be to disconnect the driveline.

These are 14mm bolts and are on there TIGHT!!! but after you get them off just use a hammer and tap the flange a bit and it will loosen up. (Troque spec is 54 ft/lbs)



Next if to make life easier when you put it back together use a set of vice-grips to pinch the brake lines (if your sill running OEM).



Next disconnect the e-brake (pinned), brake lines (10mm), and abs sensor (10mm). The ABS sensor is a little hard to get out but just use a flat head screwdriver and ease it out.






You then separate the axle shafts from the housing. They should separate fairly easy. I removed the drums when I did this so that I could check the brakes. Good time to check your bearings as well.



All you really have to do is pull the axle shafts out about 3 - 4 in. but i wanted to bull them all the way out and inspect all the bearings and seals as well. (I don't have any pictures of this but some will get posted later when i do my rear bearings.)

After you pull the shafts out you can then remove the 3rd member. remove all the nuts around the 3rd memeber (12mm). Sometimes the studs will come out when removing the nuts. Good luck finding them. they are a dealer thing. The studs are a M8x1.25 if your wondering and are about 1.74 a piece. They come with a thread locker on them. P/N # 90116-A0018 (NOT A LOT OF DEALERS CARRY THEM SO PROBABLY A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE SOME BEFORE YOU START.)



Using a flat scraper or chisel. lightly separate the 3rd from the housing. Careful cause it is actually kinda heavy and the weight is offset. Once you have it out set it on its side and let the left over gear oil drain out. (use a towel)

Here is some side by side comparisons between the older 3rds and the new 3rds. The first one is out of an 81 IIRC and the second one is out of mine. Notice the difference in the carriers. You will see the bigger difference later on.




Next I cleaned off all the remaining fluid and metal dust. (normal wear). I used brake cleaner to do this. Worked great. Now we can get onto the fun stuff

Mark each adjuster ring on each side so that you know where they are suppose to be at and as well what side they go on. I used a center punch for this but you can use a sharpie or paint pen or whatever. JUST MARK THEM!!!




next remove the clips that hold the adjuster ring in place (12mm)



Then remove the two bolts on the top cover for the carrier bearings (17mm)



I used a shop towel to keep things organized:



To remove the carrier you have to loosen the adjuster rings, this can be done with a screwdriver, punch, or just a 3/8 extension.


Last edited by smkd13; 03-24-2013 at 05:45 AM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:35 AM #90
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It will take about one full turn to get them loose enough to be able to remove them. just lightly tap and it will turn. Place the adjuster rings and the outer races to the side Again keep the sides separated



Now with the carrier out, not all carriers will have this but it is a good way to remember how to put this thing back together.



there will be two rows of bolts behind the ring gear. The ones that we need to loosen are the ones on the inner circle. There are 8 - 14mm bolts to remove. To remove these I used an impact, I only use impacts to remove bolts, Not to put them back in



this is what your shop towel should look like now:



Flip over the carrier over, remove the now what is top piece (ring gear half should be on bottom. (You dont have to remove the side gear, I just did for this tutorial)



here is a close up of the spider gears. To remove them, just lift up on the "X" - center pin, and slide the spiders off. here how the carrier should look now:



here is a picture of the side gears, thrust washers, and center pin.



Now, lets get this locker installed This is everything that comes in the Lock-Right box:



First you place one side in face down, make sure the valleys line up and the teeth mesh. Then place the gray spring in the blue spring, drop them in the slots that dont have holes going all the way through if you do the silver spring will fall all the way through and place the posts into the slots with the holes.



Then place the spacer in like so:




Place the center pin in like this:



Put the pins and springs in the other side. I used a little bit of grease to hold the springs and pin in were as you have to turn it upside down to put it on. Place the spacer in the same position. I will look something like this:



Now put the other half of the carrier on. make sure that the marks (if there) align and holding the whole thing together, flip it over so that you can see the bolt holes again. Place and hand tighten the bolts down, then torque in a star pattern. FSM does not have any torque requirements. I torqued them down as much as I felt comfortable with.



Place the Outer Bearing Race's on each side and slide it back into the carrier, place the adjustment rings in place and put the bearing caps on. Hand tighten the bolds down so they are snug. Line up your marks on each side. (I then turned the adjuster cap on the ring gear side one full turn and lined up the markings. MAKE SURE THAT THE THREAD LINE UP!!!




Torque the bearing cap mounts down to 63 ft/lbs. install the adjuster ring retainers and torque to 9 ft/lbs. And then you are ready to reinstall the third


Last edited by smkd13; 03-24-2013 at 05:21 AM.
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