I'm thinking the Dewalt won't fit but I'll soon find out. I bought that specialty Schley tool for $70 via Amazon. I knew there were homemade options, but like you, I love buying tools so I couldn't resist owing the special Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool. A 2x4 with 2 bolts sticking through it just didn't seem that sexy to me. But, I understand the MacGyver way of things and appreciate the American ingenuity that goes into these homemade tools.

I"m looking forward to this repair. This is the #1 requested video Sean and I have gotten. There are other timing belt videos out there for our engines. They're decent but we're going to take it to the next level. Like always, this video won't be short because we're going to make sure we cover all aspects of this repair and hopefully give confidence to a lot more DIY mechanics to tackle this job.

Thanks Sammy. Entertaining as always.

There are many tools that aid in this job but if you and Sean decide to change the cam and crank seals, this tool is a must along with a freezer:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S.../dp/B000FPYW4K

This one is handy for removing plastic clips, very handy, on my third one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-P...VS1C50RTN5NZWC

Hey, Sean. I use a Nikon d7100 with a 50mm lens. It's very limiting as there is no zoom but it gives good quality when things are in focus.

I already own that Lisle seal puller. Probably from a former recommendation from you. I also own a much fancier crank and camshaft seal puller kit. I plan on showcasing the Lisle tool as well as my fancy kit when we replace Sean's camshaft and crankshaft seals.

Thanks for the suggestion for the plastic fastener removal tool. I just ordered it.

Hey Dudes,

@infamousRNR and I finally did a timing belt job. This job got pushed back several times but we're stoked to finally publish this video. It's a long video but I think you'll find it very informative and will hopefully help you do your own timing belt job when the time comes.

**Please read the video description because I recently learned two optional techniques to get the timing belt on easier and I added them to the video description. Getting the belt on was a pain in the ass so a technique that would make the job easier is definitely worth exploring.

So, grab a couple beers and a bucket of popcorn and enjoy some Toyota Time with Timmy the Toolman and Sean. Enjoy the Show!

Thanks, good timing (pun intended). Tonight I was watching worsethanchiggers Youtube video on the head gasket job. I remember he said the thermostat should go in with the jiggle valve up at 12 o'clock so the air can get through. Is he wrong? I'd give you the location in his videos where he said this but I can't find it.

I may be doing this job along with my head gasket while I'm in there. The coolant lines to the rear seat heaters underneath the car rusted through and my mom ran out of coolant and overheated it (terrible design Toyota! What a way to ruin an engine!!!) This was a few years ago. It still runs OK but the exhaust is white and just smells like burning coolant. No bubbles in the radiator on turning over.

Edit: 20:50 of this video

I watched that guys video series on the head gasket repair. The guy did an excellent job. However, he was wrong about the jiggle valve position and I'm pretty sure somebody commented on the video and corrected him. The jiggle valve needs to be pointing downward in the 6 o'clock position. Having it in the 12 o'clock position will make you run around 10 degrees hotter.

Great vid. I think I'll tackle mine next time instead of paying to have it done. Thanks for doing these.

Thanks for all the content and information Tim and Sean, it is much appreciated!

Saying hello from Sacramento.

Can we please get this thread stickied?

You're welcome and Howdy back at you.

I don't think this thread or any other will ever be stickied because the mods for this 3rd Gen section of the forum have already determined how they want to organize it. All links to helpful threads like this one are listed in the stickied 3rd Gen Informational Thread above.

Sean and I have get-togethers every once in a while at my place in San Jose and we list these events on this thread: Official Bay Area MOD/MEET/GREET Thread

Subscribe to the thread and you'll be notified anytime somebody posts on it. Maybe you can make it to our next one which will probably be in the Spring when the weather gets warmer.

Also, I suggest you subscribe to our YouTube channel, "Timmy the Toolman". If you subscribe, you'll be notified every time we upload a new video. Here's a link to our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9E...y61kJ6hdXcbjxA

Part 2 to this job came about because Sean and I had to investigate a noise that surfaced 2 weeks after we finished his Timing Belt Replacement. To say the least, we weren't excited that we had to tear apart the front of his engine again but the good thing is we are now able to show you some things we didn't show in Part 1. https://youtu.be/vHC46ypHxWc

The Big One we're able to show you is an easier way to getting the timing belt on. In Part 1 we fought the belt and ended up using a plastic tire iron to lever the belt up onto the #1 idler pulley. In this video, we use the technique of backing off the tensioner bolts a little to make it much easier to slip the belt on. It worked great!

We also show you how you'd compress your tensioner in a vice so you can reuse it, a final way to confirm your timing belt is on correctly and share some advice when dealing with the aluminum oil pump body when pulling parts off and putting them back on.

Your guy's videos are great

I made a tool for the Chevy in my sig out of a long piece of 1/8" plate steel with 4 holes that you bolt to the balancer pulley-mounting holes then leverage against the front crossmember (in that truck) and tighten the crank bolt through the larger 4th hole in the center of the pattern.

In the past I've put grade 8 bolts in 2 of the pulley holes of the balancer and used a long wrench or bar leveraged between the bolts to keep the crank from turning - but I got tired of the wrench falling so I made the tool above.

It's amazing what you can do with too much time on your hands.

BTW, how do you guys open and close the 14mm bolts on the drive shaft to pinion flange on the 4runner?
I've been using 2 long box wrenches (and sometimes a jack stand) since a socket and breaker bar won't fit. I use torque wrench with a crow's foot to tighten the nuts to spec.

I use a long 14mm box end on the back side and a impact on the front side. I use a 3/8" impact gun, short extension, and a short 14mm socket. When it comes time to torque it down, I use the same long 14mm box end on the back side and a 3/8" torque wrench, short extension and short 14mm socket.

Now, for the driveshaft connection to the transfer case, I couldn't get a torque wrench on there so I just got them tight with a couple long 14mm box end wrenches.

Hey Dudes,

@infamousRNR (aka Sean) and I have a very cool video for you. Sean met @mikentosh at a PickNPull in San Jose, CA, and long story short, we found out Mikey was going to do a V8 Swap in his 3rd Gen 4runner. We expressed interest in filming the project and Mikey allowed us to join in on the fun. Mikey has a friend Wes that owns a custom hotrod shop in Santa Clara, CA and that's where most of the work happened. Wes was also cool with us filming at his shop, so to say the least, we were very excited we were getting to be a part of this.

We hope you like it.