07-13-2016, 04:47 PM
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#46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada
...ideally, for a very stuck fastener, a 6pt is the way to go...
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I agree. I generally try to stick with 6pt when possible but most of my ratcheting box end wrenches are 12pt because the 6pt ones I've seen were usually from some off brand & I'd rather go with a good quality brand 12pt ratcheting box end then a lesser quality 6pt.
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1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz: Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
2. Black 2001 SR5 4x4 5vz: stock
3. Black 2018 TRD Pro (wife’s): Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (U-bolts)
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07-13-2016, 05:18 PM
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#47
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It's been a slow day at work so I've been researching the 6pt vs 12pt availability thing. I guess the reason 12pt is become more prevalent for hand tools at least is because materials and patterns have gotten a lot better in the past few decades. I can believe that actually, so I'm not going to fight it too hard. I'm going to keep hunting for used pro grade tools like MAC, but I'm not going to fret if I can't find 6pt stuff. Seems like most of the die-hard 6pt'ers are older guys (like my Dad) who were around when early 12pt'ers were crap. So, I get it.
I think the reason I've had crap luck with 12pts is just because the quality of the 12pts I was using. After rounding these bolts off, I'm now a firm believer in quality tools. I'm going to basically chuck this tool set I've been using since high-school into the truck for emergencies as I slowly build out a better garage set.
Eventually I'll figure out all of the possible sizes of wrenches needed for the T4R, and just carry a small satellite set of those in the truck to get rid of the crap ones. My Dad said that I'd be getting his tools when he croaks (his words), but it was also his way of saying "From my cold dead hands"! I don't blame him either!
Oh, and turns out Advanced has the nuts I'm looking for! $3.50 for a set of 4 from Dorman. I keep forgetting to check them out because they've only been open near me for a year or so.
Cheers!
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-13-2016, 05:22 PM
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#48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
I agree. I generally try to stick with 6pt when possible but most of my ratcheting box end wrenches are 12pt because the 6pt ones I've seen were usually from some off brand & I'd rather go with a good quality brand 12pt ratcheting box end then a lesser quality 6pt.
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i don't really understand why, but in sockets, 6pt are easy to come by. but in wrenches, 12pt is standard, 6pt is much harder to find. odd.
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1985 pickup : EFI 331/4r70W-Dana 300-42 TSL SXII's/raceline beadlocks-30spl longs-5.29's-spools-sky Hi steer-OBA/4g tank-10.5k RR winch-dual blue tops-200 amp alt-flatbed.
1985 4runner sr5 : 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
2006 4runner v8 limited : stock. Build Thread YouTube Channel
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07-13-2016, 08:27 PM
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#49
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Done! 12mm head m8x1.25 flanged nuts available at advanced for 3.50 for four.
Last question; I basically had to yard on these as I was tightening them so I could access the next nut. I can tell they're going to be a pain to remove again if I have to for some reason down the road, as I could feel the metal being bitten into.
Soooo, do I remove them real quick before they get settled and put some anti seize on there, or just heave hoe with the right tools next time and they'll probably come off without too much of a fight?
I'm realizing I could have used my pry bar to turn the thing to access the next stud to nut on (PHRASING!).
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-13-2016, 08:40 PM
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#50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
Last question; I basically had to yard on these as I was tightening them so I could access the next nut. I can tell they're going to be a pain to remove again if I have to for some reason down the road, as I could feel the metal being bitten into.
Soooo, do I remove them real quick before they get settled and put some anti seize on there, or just heave hoe with the right tools next time and they'll probably come off without too much of a fight?
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Glad you got it worked out! It seems like it was the combination of letting those nuts soak for a while in penetrating oil and having the right tools that led to your success. I would leave it unless this is a part that people typically use anti seize on or if you had some serious rust issues which that doesnt look to be the case.
I never know when to use anti seize and when it's not advisible. I generally just use it if i see it recommended during certain jobs like on my cam bolts when i replaced my front lca bushings.
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1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz: Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
2. Black 2001 SR5 4x4 5vz: stock
3. Black 2018 TRD Pro (wife’s): Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (U-bolts)
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07-13-2016, 08:45 PM
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#51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
Glad you got it worked out! It seems like it was the combination of letting those nuts soak for a while in penetrating oil and having the right tools that led to your success. I would leave it unless this is a part that people typically use anti seize on or if you had some serious rust issues which that doesnt look to be the case.
I never know when to use anti seize and when it's not advisible. I generally just use it if i see it recommended during certain jobs like on my cam bolts when i replaced my front lca bushings.
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Thanks! I agree. Little penetrating oil, the right tools, and a whole lot of gritting of teeth, and I could do it again if I had to.
Im in the same boat with anti seize usually! On the other hand, I could imagine it being pretty ugly if the fan clutch worked itself loose, and it does probably vibrate a lot. That might be why the nuts have those teeth to bite into the metal with .
Since it's done, and everything is back together, I'll leave it. Someone let me know if should go back around though and loosen them a little.
Cheers all!
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-13-2016, 10:30 PM
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#52
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Quick update after a 20 minute drive...woah! She's a different car! Quieter, there's more power from the throttle, and the idle is calmer. I had no idea how bad the old clutch was! Can't wait to go off-roading/camping this weekend...because 4Runner!
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-13-2016, 11:36 PM
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#53
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If it drives well then congrats. Hopefully you learned quite a bit in this thread, with the main point of learning being to always steer clear of Caddys in the Sears parking lot.
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07-14-2016, 01:04 PM
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#54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
If it drives well then congrats. Hopefully you learned quite a bit in this thread, with the main point of learning being to always steer clear of Caddys in the Sears parking lot.
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Yeaaaah, pretty much! I'm going to be hunting for some craigslist/ebay used MAC or better wrench sets so I don't have to bother with Sears parking lots again. If I do, I'm taking the 4Runner and double parking like a boss. =p
"Oh, you scratched my paint!? Hardly noticed, but allow me to return the favor!"
(not mine, just pretty much how the paint on mine looks though)
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2004 Sport Edition V8. 3" OME lift. 5th Gen Brakes. 285/70 Duratracs. JBA UCAs. SCS Ray10s. DT Headers.
1997 4-Runner Limited w/ factory locker. Totaled in February 2018. Still miss it.
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07-15-2016, 11:55 AM
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#55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
So in another wtf sigh moment...I'm super happy to learn about Fastenal. However, they only have 13mm head m8-1.25 nuts! W.t.f. I'm still going to check out a couple hardware stores before sucking it up and pay $1-3/ea at the dealership, but, yeah, just thought I'd let you all know in case you need to replace yours in the future.
Oh, also, I want to try to find something with a longer head, but I know the threads were barely poking out on these ones, so maybe I should just stick with the same? Also, I'm guessing I'll want something zinc plated or stainless for corrosion resistance, right?
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Do you happen to know the part number for the Flange nuts? My local hardware store doesn't have any metric stuff in Stock right now. When I go to toyota they wanted a part number and I'm having a difficult time finding it on the toyota parts sites. Also I noticed that 1 of my Bolts is missing, so the clutch has been hanging in to the pulley with only 3 bolt the entire time I've owned it. Any idea how long those M8 bolts are? Or maybe a part number?
Thanks, -z
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07-15-2016, 12:29 PM
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#56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada
i don't really understand why, but in sockets, 6pt are easy to come by. but in wrenches, 12pt is standard, 6pt is much harder to find. odd.
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Yeah, I've never came around to get 6 points wrench, since every single hardware stores accessible here only have 12 points. I never had problem with 12 points but I know that one day I'll need it and not have it.
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07-15-2016, 02:31 PM
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#57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZionXIX
Do you happen to know the part number for the Flange nuts? My local hardware store doesn't have any metric stuff in Stock right now. When I go to toyota they wanted a part number and I'm having a difficult time finding it on the toyota parts sites. Also I noticed that 1 of my Bolts is missing, so the clutch has been hanging in to the pulley with only 3 bolt the entire time I've owned it. Any idea how long those M8 bolts are? Or maybe a part number?
Thanks, -z
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Ok, I answered part of my own question by looking at a better site. The Hex flange nuts are part number: 9017908123. They show up as Front wiper arm setting nut. However I am unsure what length of bolt to get for the fan clutch and pulley. I know it's an M8x1.25, but how long do they have to be? Are they just regular Hex head bolts?
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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07-15-2016, 02:41 PM
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#58
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It's not a bolt, it's a stud. That means it's threaded on both ends. I can't find the p/n either, but you can unscrew one of the others to see how long it is. Don't mangle it when taking it out, put two nuts on back to back and tighten them to each other and then you can use one of the them to turn the stud out.
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07-15-2016, 02:45 PM
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#59
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If your stealer can't figure out what the part number is, you should be able to get a stud from a good auto parts store. Try a NAPA store. Worst case, you can get some metric all-thread and just make your own. Fastenal will have the all-thread and they might even have metric studs.
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07-15-2016, 02:46 PM
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#60
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If you're really on St. Kitts, finding parts may not be so easy.
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