07-23-2016, 03:41 PM
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#76
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Hate to report
@ atalarico
but I found replacing the fan clutch to be very straight forward and quick to do. Had it replaced in around 30 minutes. Video coming out soon.
The nuts holding my fan clutch onto the pulley were very easy to break free. I'm guessing either your nuts were severely over-tightened like you surmised or they were corroded and rusted on there.
Anyway, hope your next project goes smoother.
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07-23-2016, 05:40 PM
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#77
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I always use anti-seize on ALL bolts whenever I assemble parts. You will never again suffer from rusted bolts if you do this. 
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07-16-2018, 10:06 AM
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#78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZionXIX
After discovering that my Fan assembly only has 3 bolts, I have been searching for an alternative to replacing the entire fan bracket assembly. I thought about cutting some threaded rod. Then I decided to just buy a long enough M8 bolt and cut the head off. However I was concerned with how the threaded rod portion of the bolt would sit in the bracket. How does the factory bolt dtay secure? Is it welded? Locktite? Maybe the bracket female threads stop at a wall in order to torque the threaded rods to a high enough value to prevent backing out?
Well however they chose to install it, the previous threaded rod came out, what's to stop this one from doing the same? It was at that point I thought, why cut the bolt at all? Why not buy a bolt of the appropriate length and just use the bolt as it was intended.....to bolt stuff together. I bought several lengths of M8 bolts since I did not know what size I would need.
I bought a 25, 20, 16, 12, and 10mm just to avoid a 2nd trip to the store. I ended up using a 20mm with a 5/16 lock nut washer to simulate the effect of the flange nut with the 'teeth' for digging into metal. I found that with the lock nut washer, the 20mm barely caught the threads. It was just enough so I could put a wrench on it to tighten down the lock nut washer. Had I used a flat washer, threading the bolt would have been no problem. I even think I could have gone down to the 16mm bolt with a flat washer as I had the fan contorted a little when trying to thread the bolt. I think it turned out pretty well. I might try swapping out the bolts when I change the belts.
The bolt that missing in the 1st picture is the 20mm
Attachment 212856Attachment 212857Attachment 212858
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Bringing old thread back due to the same issue as Zion. While doing some trails yesterday my fan blade broke (2 fins) and while replacing everything I noticed one of the bolts/nuts holding the clutch on is missing. One question is, should I be able to remove that broken stud and then put new one in (or 4 new bolts as shown here) or will I be needing a new pulley/bracket that actually houses the studs? In other words are the studs removable from the pulley? 2nd question is, what actually houses these studs... looks like the pulley is bolted onto the bracket then fan clutch onto the pulley?
Thanks
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07-16-2018, 11:18 AM
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#79
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The bracket holds the studs if that's what you are asking.
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07-16-2018, 01:05 PM
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#80
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Is it normal for the nuts to "loosen" as you tighten nuts on the other side of the flange? I had to do a few rounds to get them all tight. I don't understand why because it just looks like a round flange, not sure why there would be so much flex in it.
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07-16-2018, 02:45 PM
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#81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_BC
Is it normal for the nuts to "loosen" as you tighten nuts on the other side of the flange? I had to do a few rounds to get them all tight. I don't understand why because it just looks like a round flange, not sure why there would be so much flex in it.
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It's true of almost anything that you have to tighten multiple fasteners evenly. Very bad practice to tighten any fastener only once.
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07-16-2018, 03:06 PM
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#82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
It's true of almost anything that you have to tighten multiple fasteners evenly. Very bad practice to tighten any fastener only once.
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Yeah but they really loosened, like I could spin them freely with my fingers when I tightened the opposite side. Just wondering if maybe the flanges weren't mated properly like they hung up on something.
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07-16-2018, 09:16 PM
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#83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_BC
Yeah but they really loosened, like I could spin them freely with my fingers when I tightened the opposite side. Just wondering if maybe the flanges weren't mated properly like they hung up on something.
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As long as all four were torqued up when you were done (check all four at the end) and it spun without wobble, I would not worry. Things do get hung up as they tighten down and then get pressed into place. Try to tighten evenly and you should not have that issue.
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'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
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07-17-2018, 09:08 AM
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#84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
The bracket holds the studs if that's what you are asking.
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That’s it. Are those studs removable or do I need to buy the entire bracket if one is snapped?
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07-17-2018, 10:09 AM
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#85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivopivo
That’s it. Are those studs removable or do I need to buy the entire bracket if one is snapped?
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I would think so but not sure, I have a new one at home I am going to swap out when I do the timing belt, I will check it later tonight. I have to go by the dealer today and will ask the parts guy, one of the guys is pretty sharp, the others just read what the screen says.
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07-17-2018, 05:53 PM
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#86
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This is an aftermarket unit but I'm pretty sure it's the same spec as OEM
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07-19-2018, 01:19 AM
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#87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
This is an aftermarket unit but I'm pretty sure it's the same spec as OEM
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Perfect, thanks a lot. I ordered some new stuff so should be fixing it next week as soon as it comes in.
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09-11-2018, 01:02 AM
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#88
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Wedgy, do you by chance know the part number for those studs? Couldn’t find one at home depot.
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07-16-2019, 05:19 PM
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#89
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Hate to resurrect an old thread from the dead, but didn't want to start a brand new one when my situation is similar to the one in this thread.
Earlier this winter, came out to start our 4Runner and immediately hear and feel a clunk, a thunk and a clang, then a vibration through the steering wheel and pedal box. For a split second, I thought it threw a rod or at the very least blew off a belt. I immediately shut it down and then see the fluffy wisps of fur floating out from under my wheel wells. Pulled the hood latch and sure enough, a rabbit had crawled into the engine bay for warmth and was drawn into the serpentine belts and then into the clutch fan. After pulling the mangled carcass out and cleaning as best I could, I noticed a couple of blades on the fan had been cracked and broken. This was the cause of the vibration I was feeling. It's really only noticeable at idle, but now it's time for me to actually replace the fan.
Now onto the real question. I can see that the fan blade assembly is bolted to the fan clutch, but do I have to remove the entire fan blade/clutch assembly as a complete unit or is there a way to just remove and replace the fan blade? Clearance looks pretty tight between the radiator and fan.
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07-16-2019, 05:23 PM
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#90
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Yes you have to remove the whole thing. Not hard to do. Then u can remove the plastic fan from the clutch by loosening 4 more nuts.
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