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Old 02-16-2018, 01:22 PM #61
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Rear spring swap

I was tired of the lean I had and realized the rear coils were specific to a driver's and passenger side. I didnt realize this when I installed them. so,

Before:
top of driver rear tire to fender: 6.5"
top of pass rear tire to fender: 7.5"

the cause: I had the tall spring on the passenger side.



After:
top of driver rear tire to fender: 6.75"
top of pass rear tire to fender: 7.25"

so its close but not yet perfect. Im blaming the panhard bar for the remaining half inch, my axle is offset to the passenger side about 1/2"-3/4" and causing a bit of "torque" on the suspension. hopefully that should fix it.

Ill be in the market for a cheap adjustable panhard bar now...
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:12 PM #62
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so its close but not yet perfect. Im blaming the panhard bar for the remaining half inch, my axle is offset to the passenger side about 1/2"-3/4" and causing a bit of "torque" on the suspension. hopefully that should fix it.

Ill be in the market for a cheap adjustable panhard bar now...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-s...its-%2486.html

That's what you really want...

-Charlie
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:22 PM #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-s...its-%2486.html

That's what you really want...

-Charlie
I pm'd him after I posted that entry! you think that will correct my 1/2" lean to the drivers side?
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:11 PM #64
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I pm'd him after I posted that entry! you think that will correct my 1/2" lean to the drivers side?
Probably not. A 1/4" top plate spacer on the driver's side front shock will though...

Remember the driver's side has the transfer case, front diff and gas tank. In that same space on the passenger side there is a lot of empty space and a little bit of exhaust.

-Charlie
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:35 AM #65
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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Probably not. A 1/4" top plate spacer on the driver's side front shock will though...

Remember the driver's side has the transfer case, front diff and gas tank. In that same space on the passenger side there is a lot of empty space and a little bit of exhaust.

-Charlie
why the front shock? my front is pretty dang close. its my rear that is off a little. was going to consider a spacer back there.
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:19 PM #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-s...its-%2486.html

That's what you really want...

-Charlie
ordered! going to weld the frame side only for now, I want to rebuild my new-to-me e-locked rear and then weld the axle bracket to that axle.
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:34 PM #67
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To Do List

Okay,

had some time to settle down and think about using/installing all of the things/parts I have in hand vs all of the things I want to do.

- discovered my upper ball joint is contacting the spring at full droop, so I will grind down the metal on the hub with my dremmel till it clears. if it looks like I have to take too much material ill have to pop the UBJ and rotate the coil...

- Battery terminals, picked up some this morning, need to get some covers though. current ones are small and worn.

- valve cover gaskets. need to do both of them, all the parts arrived this week. (the FIPG seal packing is not pictured)



- get my late model center console arm rest reupholstered to match the tan, and then install the new console.

- looks like the new suspension finally settled a bit and the sequel is now sitting pretty even side to side so ill order and install two 10mm trim spacers to give just a touch more rake,

- and finally when all of that is complete, I will begin breaking down my new-to-me e-locked axle and prepping it for install. plan on replacing all seals, gaskets and bearings and inspecting the 3rd member to make sure it has all its teeth, and bench testing the locker to make sure it works. Once I confirm the gearing I will wrap it up and store it till I can acquire some new front gears to match. and finally install the locker!...........then maybe 35's???

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Old 02-20-2018, 05:59 PM #68
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Quote:
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why the front shock? my front is pretty dang close. its my rear that is off a little. was going to consider a spacer back there.
A 10mm trim packer (slightly over 3/8") could help in the rear too.

Also, don't expect it to be perfect. It will change with fuel load, etc.

-Charlie
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:36 PM #69
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Late Model Center console

Today was a good day

started off with replacing the old worn vinyl on the console door, easy as pie, and I added a little design touch to the back...(the color match isnt perfect, but the vinyl material was free from a local upholstry shop so I wasnt complaining, and its close enough for me not to care)



next was removing the old e-brake handle, and installing the "new" one. as the new handle has the extended bracket to position it perfectly. "B" is the where the original bracket bent upward, "C" is where the late model bracket bends upwards...



The first issue that I found was the little metal tab that holds the cable in place was protruding too far and would hit the floor (see pic), so I cut the end off, and it fits like a glove. (second pic shows how much to cut)



next was the console bracket. the late model is much shorter as seen in the picture, but I had to make it even shorter! the distance between "A" to "B" is about how far I had to hammer and bend the bracket back in order for the console to line up with the bolt holes, (about 3/8"), apply the big ass wrench, and its there!



the second issue i found was that by bending the console bracket back the rear heater control bracket would be in the way, simple cut and its like a glove...



with that out of the way, the fitment was perfect. but I wasnt done there! I needed a place to put my rear window UP/DN switch, and my EDC switch. so naturally I canibalized my '96 center console switch plates and made my own!

cut out the usable switch plates (leaving enough material to play with...


remove as much material as possible between them, so they can fit side by side within the cubby hole of the late model console...and JB weld together


once dry, JB weld into the cubby hole (I didnt leave enough material on the outer edges to fill all gaps, I used more JB weld!!


and finally install your switches, fill the empty switch holes with the blanks and isntall the console! DONE.
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:38 PM #70
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Today was another good day!

Finally tackled my valve cover gaskets, no more leaky mess!!

both sides looked great, and went without issue

Driver's side


I did notice that these plastic wire covers are in shambles (one is missing completely, and this one is cracking into pieces just from looking at it. anyone have an idea what they are called? I cant find them online.



and finally, my buddies wrangler (that he never uses) the 4runner just looks much more agile and nimble!

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Old 02-26-2018, 01:07 AM #71
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I did notice that these plastic wire covers are in shambles (one is missing completely, and this one is cracking into pieces just from looking at it. anyone have an idea what they are called? I cant find them online.
Mine were already broken when I did my Valve Cover Gaskets. The PO had the Valve Gaskets replaced at the dealer in 2013, based upon multiple people's comments on other threads, these just turn brittle with age, regardless of mileage.

Looks like they are part of the entire loom. Just slap some aluminized duct tape on them and call it good.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:58 PM #72
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successfully confirmed my new-to-me e-locker axle is 4.30 geared.

unsuccessfully fucntioned the locking motor . I grabbed a 9v battery, some scrap wire i had laying around, and briefly touched the + and - to the two leads highlighted below. nothing. motor didn't even make a sound.


I am going to try and remove it from the diff, and disassemble it, hopefully cleaning and fixing the issue. otherwise ill grab a "verified good" used unit from ECGS for $250...

I also installed the 10mm trim spacer I got from @99problems . I'm now rolling perfectly level! thanks!

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Old 02-26-2018, 05:41 PM #73
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I did notice that these plastic wire covers are in shambles (one is missing completely, and this one is cracking into pieces just from looking at it. anyone have an idea what they are called? I cant find them online.
Not available separately from the whole engine harness...

-Charlie
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Old 02-27-2018, 02:19 PM #74
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E-locker motor refurb

this morning was a great success. I pulled my e-locker motor assembly out as it was not responding to a 9v battery in any way. removal was easy, a couple of 12mm nuts/bots and its out

picture of the inside for good measure. looks really good. will be pulling the entire 3rd out later this year to do a full inspection. but she turns fine so I dont suspect it to have any issues.



after reading plenty of sites and PDF's of how to carefully dissassemble this thing, I went for it. and it was much easier than expected. this sucker was clean as can be!



with the main gear set out, and cleaned motor contacts, I tested it again with the 9v battery. she turns!!!

(not my picture but this is what im talking about. the main gear set on the right comes out by unscrewing two srews. pulls straight out. easy peasy.)



I put the main gear set back in and made sure she turns still, she does not! the main gear set was just a little snug, broke free by hand. I put a little grease in there just to be sure. reassembled and she is good to go! Ill install it back on the 3rd today to keep everything sealed up. I also need to take the whole axle to the car wash and give it a scrub. its nasty!

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Old 03-01-2018, 07:48 PM #75
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well my SEM Trim Black arrived today and I was really excited to get to painting my center console and guage cluster plastic. but sadly I rushed and didnt clean everything well enough, (just wiped down with an old rag and paper towels), only did the gauge cluster plastic as a test

before -> after


BUT! this is what happens when you dont clean well enough


gonna have to take a bit more time and clean everything proporly before I try again. I did remove my fender flares and cleaned them with Simple Green in the bathtub in preparation for painting. hopefully that will come out better than the interior plastic

I quite like the look without the flares to be honest, but the paint is really chewed up where the flares used to be. ill probably keep them for now and ditch them when I switch to 255/85 tires.
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