power locks - Toyota 4Runner Forum

bwv7131 · 04-26-2018, 03:42 AM

I'm having issues with my power locks for my 1998 T4R SR5 5sp. I can only unlock/lock driver or passenger door with key in outside key hole (won't lock/unlock all locks if turned either side twice). Power locks inside don't work and no noise made from locks when I try the power lock button. I do not have a key fob.

I tried replacing the 30A fuse under the steering wheel, the driver's side actuator and the master switch with no luck.

Am I looking at a wiring issue here?

sleepydad · 04-26-2018, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwv7131

I'm having issues with my power locks for my 1998 T4R SR5 5sp. I can only unlock/lock driver or passenger door with key in outside key hole (won't lock/unlock all locks if turned either side twice). Power locks inside don't work and no noise made from locks when I try the power lock button. I do not have a key fob.

I tried replacing the 30A fuse under the steering wheel, the driver's side actuator and the master switch with no luck.

Am I looking at a wiring issue here?

It’s most likely the drivers side fuse block. The fuse you replaced is in the drivers side block. It has relays in it that are a known issue on these trucks and a bunch of other Toyota models. It’s not a cheap part and it’s a pain to replace but it’s not hard to do.

82730-35260 My 2000 used this part.

IBallEngineer · 04-26-2018, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwv7131

I'm having issues with my power locks for my 1998 T4R SR5 5sp. I can only unlock/lock driver or passenger door with key in outside key hole (won't lock/unlock all locks if turned either side twice). Power locks inside don't work and no noise made from locks when I try the power lock button. I do not have a key fob.

I tried replacing the 30A fuse under the steering wheel, the driver's side actuator and the master switch with no luck.

Am I looking at a wiring issue here?

Unfortunately the highest probability is the Body ECU. However the possibility of a wiring failure, especially between the driver's door and the body, is also a valid idea to follow. If you have some jumper wires and a multimeter the body ECU can be tested fairly easily. But it does involve some disassembly and patience. If you search here on this forum it is well documented, otherwise it is a lot of back and forth to explain it.

I should put together a tutorial, right after that one thing, and those other things.

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