04-27-2011, 09:06 PM
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#1
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Is thermostat hard to replace?
I think mine is bad, it has been overheating only when the weather is hot. I just replaced the water pump and rad cap. Is it easy to replace? How much is does it cost and what other parts do I need? I have no leaks and hoses are good head gasket good also.
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[1997 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x2 3.4L V6 @ 176,000k miles]
5000k HID's DDM kit. FOG lights. Reverse light mod.
2.5" Spacer front 890 rear coils. 31" BFG A/T KO's Airaid Drop in filter Deckplate mod
NEW [2010 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Prerunner TRD Sport fully loaded 2WD]
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04-27-2011, 10:07 PM
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#2
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Not hard at all. Drain radiator, remove bottom rad hose, remove the 3-12mm nuts, pop off the neck and install new Tstat and rubber gromet with the bypass port of the tstat @ 12 o'clock postion and install parts in reverse order!
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04-27-2011, 10:14 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atreyus
I think mine is bad, it has been overheating only when the weather is hot. I just replaced the water pump and rad cap. Is it easy to replace? How much is does it cost and what other parts do I need? I have no leaks and hoses are good head gasket good also.
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Agreed. Not hard at all. I had to replace mine on the return trip across the country from Pasadena to Alabama from the BCS National Championship game. I did it in an Autozone parking lot in Amarillo Texas, at night, in sub-freezing temperatures, with borrowed tools haha. Only a few bucks, a few bolts, and a few minutes later, we were back on the road.
Good luck!
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2003 Limited 4wd V6 94k miles - 5/15
Lifted 2000 2Runner Limited (SOLD)
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04-27-2011, 10:47 PM
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#4
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The FSM (page CO-12) says the jiggle valve should be down, not up. Correct torque is 14 foot-lbs. I would torque these carefully. These are three of the bolts that hold your new water pump on and you want that seal to hold for the next 90k+ miles. Over-torquing these (or under-torquing) is not a good idea.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
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04-27-2011, 10:56 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UARandy3
Agreed. Not hard at all. I had to replace mine on the return trip across the country from Pasadena to Alabama from the BCS National Championship game. I did it in an Autozone parking lot in Amarillo Texas, at night, in sub-freezing temperatures, with borrowed tools haha. Only a few bucks, a few bolts, and a few minutes later, we were back on the road.
Good luck!
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So you went to the BCS national championship game with the initials UA in the beginning of your username? What are you some kinda Auburn/Alabama fan hybrid? lol...just kidding. I bet you were a Duck fan
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Wheel converter,
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04-27-2011, 11:05 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj80cruiser
So you went to the BCS national championship game with the initials UA in the beginning of your username? What are you some kinda Auburn/Alabama fan hybrid? lol...just kidding. I bet you were a Duck fan
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No, no, no. You've got it all wrong. I went to LAST YEAR'S BCS championship in Pasadena haha. You know, the one where Alabama beat Texas.
RTR
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04-27-2011, 11:12 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UARandy3
No, no, no. You've got it all wrong. I went to LAST YEAR'S BCS championship in Pasadena haha. You know, the one where Alabama beat Texas.
RTR
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Oh, I missed that part. I'm an SEC fan no matter who they play.
Hijack over, um back to the thermostat.
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04-27-2011, 11:29 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
The FSM (page CO-12) says the jiggle valve should be down, not up. Correct torque is 14 foot-lbs. I would torque these carefully. These are three of the bolts that hold your new water pump on and you want that seal to hold for the next 90k+ miles. Over-torquing these (or under-torquing) is not a good idea.
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The valve goes at 12 o'clock. I used the FSM to do the timing belt/ water pump.
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1997 4runner Limited 4wd- Purchased new by family 12/96
Factory 4.30 e-locker conversion, 265/75 BFG AT, FX-R Hid Retrofit, Kenwood Nav, 231mm Tundra brakes, Grey FJZ80 Wheels, Deckplate mod, ARB Bumper, Hella 4000 compacts, Sonoran Steel 7.2a, Scangauge 2, Extended Diff Breather, Custom Sway Bar Endlinks, Black No Rust Rear Bumper
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04-28-2011, 12:42 AM
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#9
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Thanks a lot guys will be tackling this tomorrow morning. One more thing, once installed do I run the truck for awhile after I pour in the coolant? And also could i reuse the coolant I drain or is that not a good idea.
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[1997 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x2 3.4L V6 @ 176,000k miles]
5000k HID's DDM kit. FOG lights. Reverse light mod.
2.5" Spacer front 890 rear coils. 31" BFG A/T KO's Airaid Drop in filter Deckplate mod
NEW [2010 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Prerunner TRD Sport fully loaded 2WD]
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04-28-2011, 01:04 AM
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#10
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Cory J
Wheel converter,
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04-28-2011, 11:12 AM
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#11
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I picked up a Thermostat from the Yota dealership for $21 and the gasket was $7.
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04-28-2011, 11:45 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj80cruiser
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Thanks for the support. Now how do you cut and paste the individual pages out of a chapter? I can't seem to figure out how to do that out of a larger .pdf. Thanks.
MAD 69--Yes, you can reuse the coolant if you catch it in a clean container. I usually run the front wheels up a curb (that I have close to my garage) and let the engine warm until the thermostat opens. Then I keep adding as necessary while the system burps, until it doesn't seem to want to burp anymore. Check the reservoir after the first drive.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 04-28-2011 at 11:52 AM.
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04-28-2011, 12:55 PM
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#13
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TheDURK is right it goes at 6 o'clock. When I first started working on my 4runner I had a Haynes manual which states 12 o'clock. My current FSM says 6.
When you empty the coolant only open the valve at the radiator a few turns, do not remove the plug and it will flow easily into a bucket.
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1997 4runner Limited 4wd- Purchased new by family 12/96
Factory 4.30 e-locker conversion, 265/75 BFG AT, FX-R Hid Retrofit, Kenwood Nav, 231mm Tundra brakes, Grey FJZ80 Wheels, Deckplate mod, ARB Bumper, Hella 4000 compacts, Sonoran Steel 7.2a, Scangauge 2, Extended Diff Breather, Custom Sway Bar Endlinks, Black No Rust Rear Bumper
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04-29-2011, 01:38 AM
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#14
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So I installed the Thermostat today, everything is up and running again, thanks everyone for the help and insight!
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[1997 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x2 3.4L V6 @ 176,000k miles]
5000k HID's DDM kit. FOG lights. Reverse light mod.
2.5" Spacer front 890 rear coils. 31" BFG A/T KO's Airaid Drop in filter Deckplate mod
NEW [2010 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Prerunner TRD Sport fully loaded 2WD]
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04-29-2011, 02:40 AM
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#15
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Sorry to jack... where can I download the FSM? The links under the reference and tutorial sticky don't work.
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