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Old 10-31-2011, 12:00 AM #1
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How to install new CV Axles

Here it goes. This is my first write up and unfortunately I don't have any pics and Don't want to do it again anytime soon. From me having to do it 5 times in the last 2 weeks I hope this will help those so you don't have my problems...

Tools
1 21mm socket
1 19mm socket
1 17mm socket
1 35mm socket
1 10mm hex head socket
BFH (big effing hammer)
Also a rubber mallet is a plus...or just hit the old axle with the big one as it's coming out anyways.
1 short prybar (12 inches)
1 long prybar (36 inches)
little screwdriver and little hammer to pop off the dust cover

Materials
1 new/remanned axle
1 cotter pin
1.5 quarts of gear lube 80/90 or 75/90


Removal

1. Jack up the truck, take off the tire.
2. Take off the two 19mm bolts under the bottom of the rotor that attach it to the control arm.
3. Take off the sway bar endlink from the knuckle 17mm nut.
4. Get a screw driver and pound it in to pop off the outside black dust cover. (be gentle and patient don't deform it just go slow and work your way around the cover.)
5. Take out the cotter pin that hold on the little thingy around the big hub nut.
6. Take a 35mm socket to the hub nut. (I used an air impact and it came right off....good luck with a big bar ;)
7. Take a rubber mallet and hit the center threads of the old axle to loosen it from the hub...make sure it starts moving a bit. A few good whacks should loosen it up.
8. Have a buddy swing out the rotor a bit while you push the threads through the hub (possibly some light taps with the hammer to get it through) Also, DON'T pry on the inside of the hub...could screw up some bearings.
9. Now you got the outside out...use a slide hammer (who has one of those?) Or a pry bar and a huge hammer...HUGE being the keyword. I used a 10 lb sledge. But just light swings on it. The weight is the key. You can't wind up anyways...just some light/medium taps with the huge hammer and it should start coming out. Keep the taps coming until you can wiggle it... (good to have a buddy on the other end supporting the axle some.)
10. Get a bucket, the gear oil will start dripping out (smells worse than death)

Install

1. lube up the new axle with grease. Make sure C-clip opening is facing up.
2. Set it in place and push it in as far as you can with your hands.
3. Get a really big pry bar (~36 inches) and thread it in there to get on the lip of the axle.
4. Use said HUGE hammer...and some gentle taps and it will go in.
5. Move the rotor out a bit and thread in the other end into the hub (easy)
6. Put the hub nut back on. along with the sway bar nut and the bottom control arm bolt and voila all done. and the tire...

BTW refill with oil using 10mm hex socket

The reason I did it 5 times is because my seals were leaking oil like crazy afterwards so after getting it all together I've had to redo each side seal (PITA).

The Side seals are Toyota part number
90311-47013 for the PASSENGER side
and I believe 90311-47012 for the DRIVER side...still waiting to get the right one. (WHY oh WHY are they different sizes???)

The 12 is smaller than the 13.

~10 bucks for the 47012 and 18 bucks for the 47013

I recommend replacing these seals too while you're at it so you don't have to do it again like me.

Just use your little pry bar and pry them out of the end (be mean to it). To install just set them in flush with the outside...and let the axle push it back in when you hammer it in. That way you don't have to deal with more leaking.


Notes: You don't need to take sensors or upper ball joint or hub or anything else out. This is literally 2 bolts and 2 nuts...that's it. Trust me i've done it like 5 times now and with air tools I can get it out and back in in about 45 minutes...Before I figured out the HUGE hammer with light/medium taps I spent an hour and a half trying to get the new axle in and out. but just go BIG on the hammer and light on the hits and you're golden.

I haven't seen any good CV axle right-ups on this forum seen a taco one and an FJ writeup but they took way more off than needed. Hope this helps everyone and if anyone is doing this and wants to add pics...much appreciated.

Last edited by settytb; 10-31-2011 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:50 AM #2
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I'll buy the your stock ones that you replaced. PM me and let me know
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:54 PM #3
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Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:39 PM #4
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Just glad I could help...after doing it a few times over the course of a week I figured I would share my experience so you guys don't have to.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:30 PM #5
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Great write up! Got a question for you, If I need to replace the inner CV boot is it necessary to remove the whole axle or can I just remove the wheel end and stretch it over?

Thanks!

Jeff
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:06 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstutz101 View Post
Great write up! Got a question for you, If I need to replace the inner CV boot is it necessary to remove the whole axle or can I just remove the wheel end and stretch it over?

Thanks!

Jeff
Haven't done just the boot but you should just need to remove the wheel end.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:03 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by settytb View Post
The Side seals are Toyota part number
90311-47013 for the PASSENGER side
and I believe 90311-47012 for the DRIVER side...still waiting to get the right one. (WHY oh WHY are they different sizes???)

The 12 is smaller than the 13.

~10 bucks for the 47012 and 18 bucks for the 47013

I recommend replacing these seals too while you're at it so you don't have to do it again like me.

Just use your little pry bar and pry them out of the end (be mean to it). To install just set them in flush with the outside...and let the axle push it back in when you hammer it in. That way you don't have to deal with more leaking.


sorry to bring up an old thread hope someone chimes in asap. but is it really that easy? and it shouldnt leak anymore? took everything apart my seal was ate up really bad. just trying to figure out how to get in back in.. this is the drivers side im working with
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:40 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangers Runner View Post
sorry to bring up an old thread hope someone chimes in asap. but is it really that easy? and it shouldnt leak anymore? took everything apart my seal was ate up really bad. just trying to figure out how to get in back in.. this is the drivers side im working with
I have never tried it that way and that would be the incorrect way to install the new seals. You will want to find a socket or a seal driver large enough to get around the outside of the new seal, then tap it in evenly till it is flush with the housing, or where the old seal sat.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:33 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 762x51 View Post
I have never tried it that way and that would be the incorrect way to install the new seals. You will want to find a socket or a seal driver large enough to get around the outside of the new seal, then tap it in evenly till it is flush with the housing, or where the old seal sat.
ok seems simple enough.. im just trying to get all of the old seal out first because it doesnt want to come out nicely its in pieces
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:24 AM #10
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My old one came out pretty easy with a little pry bar. And no doing it my way isn't the "proper way" but I don't have the exact seal driver or a socket that huge. But my way stopped it from leaking and i've had no problems for about 5-10k miles now...Good luck!
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:45 AM #11
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can someone please post a pic of where the seal should be seated, flush with the housing. I assume that this means the body of the seal, and not the "lip" part that sticks out more. But I am confused about whether its flush with the inside portion of the housing, or the outside part that sticks out more.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:21 PM #12
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Flush with the casing of the transmission. That thing is not holding the ship together, it is simply holding oil in the casing. Just make sure it is straight.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:05 PM #13
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settytb... thanks for the concise write-up! I just bought two new Cardone CV axle shafts and plan to install them soon. I think that I'll go get the new seals as well.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:00 PM #14
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Anytime, I recommend the seal just because my first time taking them out and putting in the new one i think i moved the original seal and that's why it leaked... But it's good to change them anyways.

-Seth
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:41 PM #15
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The seal is a friction fit...and like the hub dust cover it can be a pain to get all 360 degrees of the circle started.

Patience and perseverance will get you there. I did it with my fingers and then it fully seated with the axle.

Before I tried to seat the new seal I cleaned the area with a flat blade screw driver and lubed the entire rim with Gear oil...it was a rusty crusty ring.

I did ensure it was fully started on all sides, I didn't want to have to redo it cause I screwed up a new seal.

You don't have to worry about it going too far because there is a lip inside that will stop the depth seating of the seal.
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