04-25-2013, 02:28 PM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NORTH...
Posts: 90
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NORTH...
Posts: 90
|
How hot can your brake rotor be after drive?
after about 30 mins of city driving (stop and go), I found that my rotors ( especially front) were extremely hot. Pour some water and it dryout very fast.
The wheels are just warm tho.
Should I suspect a seized caliper?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 03:08 PM
|
#2
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Glendale, Ca
Age: 41
Posts: 638
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Glendale, Ca
Age: 41
Posts: 638
|
no...
lots of heat will be made to stop a 6000lb rig...
it's normal.
__________________
2006 4wd v8 sport, functional hood scoop, OME 896 886 and OME shocks, icon billet UCA, icon rear UCA, two frogs racing rear lower control arms, spidertraxx, in channel window visor, volant intake, magnaflow catback, dual battery, HID roof lights, PIAA back up lights
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 03:30 PM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Truckee
Age: 38
Posts: 2,580
Real Name: Chris
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Truckee
Age: 38
Posts: 2,580
Real Name: Chris
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mole177
no...
lots of heat will be made to stop a 6000lb rig...
it's normal.
|
Last time I checked we don't have 3 ton rigs. On second thought, Thejosh might.
__________________
2007 SE V8
HID's, interior LED mod, sweet floor mats, awesome tunes and some more stuff...
...more stuff
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 04:02 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Near Framingham, MA
Posts: 2,674
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Near Framingham, MA
Posts: 2,674
|
Rotors are supposed to get very hot.
__________________
If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Current: 2013 Land Cruiser
Gone: 2003 4Runner V8 Limited 4WD
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 04:12 PM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greenville, SC
Age: 44
Posts: 1,297
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greenville, SC
Age: 44
Posts: 1,297
Real Name: Mike
|
You're totally fine. Even a couple of minutes of driving will have them hot, let a alone 30 minutes of stop and go. Rotors will get hot no matter what after a drive. Spritz some water on them and they boil off instantly.
When they smell like they're burning is when you have a problem.
__________________
SOLD2007 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4X4 - Natural White - Perf: Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers | 4.56 Gears ARB Front / TrueTrac Rear Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MT ICON Long Travel | JBA UCAs | VTX Rogue 17x8.5 -10 | GY Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod | 1" Toytec Body Lift | Custom Cut Axle Joints ICE: Auto Pumpkin 10.1" Android | 3.5" Tweeter Mod Exterior: Quad Bi-Xenon HID Retrofit
2019 4Runner Limited 4x4 - MGM - Hers | Ironman4x4 FCP's & UCA | Fuel Rebel 20x9+1 | GY Duratrac 275/60R20 | Victory 4x4 FLRR
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 05:08 PM
|
#6
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike07SE
You're totally fine. Even a couple of minutes of driving will have them hot, let a alone 30 minutes of stop and go. Rotors will get hot no matter what after a drive. Spritz some water on them and they boil off instantly.
When they smell like they're burning is when you have a problem.
|
Yeah, well almost every itty bitty sedan, domestic truck, and similar vehicles I test drive up and down a hill near our dealership (fair steep, curvy, great for loading up a car on a test drive) burns the brakes by the time I get to the bottom of the hill, they're usually smoking and I heavily engine brake (to test the trans and load the engine up.)
That being said, your brakes will easily surpass 400*F (I don't remember what the actual temp is, but I know they get hotter than that) under normal sustained braking. I would refrain from quenching the brakes when their hot, cast iron isn't too happy when you do that. Unless your brakes are excessively smoking/burning and or you are experiencing brake fade I would not worry about how hot the brakes get.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 05:21 PM
|
#7
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Spotswood, NJ
Age: 46
Posts: 120
Real Name: Brian
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Spotswood, NJ
Age: 46
Posts: 120
Real Name: Brian
|
I have been using one of those point and shoot thermometers to check my brakes over the past 2 weeks, I just replaced the pads and front rotors and want to make sure i dont need calipers too. I know, its backwards. I have been getting readings of about 210*-250*, this is just driving around the city here, rarely over 40mph on drives of 30 mins or more.
Back brakes are usually a little warmer 250ish , fronts are 210- 220ish, my passenger side is usually a little cooler too I assume this is due to me and the gas tank adding more weight to the drivers side.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 05:47 PM
|
#8
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tresvn
I have been using one of those point and shoot thermometers to check my brakes over the past 2 weeks, I just replaced the pads and front rotors and want to make sure i dont need calipers too. I know, its backwards. I have been getting readings of about 210*-250*, this is just driving around the city here, rarely over 40mph on drives of 30 mins or more.
Back brakes are usually a little warmer 250ish , fronts are 210- 220ish, my passenger side is usually a little cooler too I assume this is due to me and the gas tank adding more weight to the drivers side.
|
That sounds about right, you have to remember that when you brake all that momentum and force is transfered to the front of the vehicle. This is why the rear brakes are often smaller as they don't normally handle as much weight when braking. I also could be off on my temperature, I could have sworn it was higher than 400*F but looking at some stuff in Google (haven't read any of the NTHSA or DOT studies) seems like that is average temp for normal driving.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 06:02 PM
|
#9
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
Age: 36
Posts: 5,066
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
Age: 36
Posts: 5,066
|
i would avoid putting water on hot brakes, u can warp the rotors.
__________________
Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
04-25-2013, 09:54 PM
|
#10
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: neither here nor there
Posts: 129
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: neither here nor there
Posts: 129
|
I race cars and without cooling on the track the front rotors can get over 800. Easily. They literally start to glow red.
On the street, I've checked them (looking for a frozen caliper) and the fronts of my t4r run about 150-200. The rears slightly less. That's with essentially "normal" street driving. Not towing. Not driving hard. I think most of my cars run in that range on the street. I did catch a frozen caliper on another car and it was running off the scale (888+)
If you're running >300 on the street and you're driving "normally", I'd be looking for a dragging caliper.
Last edited by emoore924; 04-25-2013 at 09:56 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-09-2014, 02:47 PM
|
#11
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
Rotor Temps
I've been reading about the stuck caliper issues on this forum. I decided to use a laser temp gauge to measure the temp of my rotors. After driving about 30 minutes in 30 degree F temp. Here are my average temps per tire from taking the temp from several spots on each rotor.
Front Left: 80-100F
Front Right: 80-100F
Rear Left: 300-350F
Rear Right: 100-115F
Curious to hear what you'd do next. And don't recommend moving to a warmer climate
__________________
Black 2004 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V8 (born again Aug 2014)
DIY: spark plugs, servos for vent and airmix, fender splash shield, seafoam, rear axle seal & parking brake, exhaust muffler tailpipe, rear brakes, hood struts, a/c recharge, front brakes, front struts, rear shocks, ATF exchange, smartphone holder.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-09-2014, 02:50 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 67
Posts: 1,833
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 67
Posts: 1,833
|
Quote:
Here are my average temps per tire from taking the temp from several spots on each rotor.
Front Left: 80-100F
Front Right: 80-100F
Rear Left: 300-350F
Rear Right: 100-115F
|
Looks like the left-rear caliper is sticking.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-09-2014, 03:57 PM
|
#13
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 748
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 748
|
I had a frozen rear caliper that I replaced this summer...in addition to the front two having at least one piston frozen. It happens.
__________________
2004 SR5 V8 4WD White - Full LED Swap - Pioneer BT Stereo - Lite Racing UCAs - Toytec Bilstein 5100 Front 3"
Superflex Rear 2"- Spidertrax 1.5" - 255/75r17 Destination AT - SS Brake Lines - Prothane Bushings - SE Brake Upgrade - Full Synthetic
1994 SR5 V6 4WD Black - Bilstein HDs - OME 900 - 31" Destination AT
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-09-2014, 05:40 PM
|
#14
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan
I had a frozen rear caliper that I replaced this summer...in addition to the front two having at least one piston frozen. It happens.
|
Dylan, did you have to replace rotor and pads too? I was planning to just swap out the caliper. I also don't know how long its been like this. When I rotated my tires 2 months ago, the pads looked good all around.
__________________
Black 2004 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V8 (born again Aug 2014)
DIY: spark plugs, servos for vent and airmix, fender splash shield, seafoam, rear axle seal & parking brake, exhaust muffler tailpipe, rear brakes, hood struts, a/c recharge, front brakes, front struts, rear shocks, ATF exchange, smartphone holder.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-13-2014, 09:12 PM
|
#15
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 260
|
rear brake job
I planned to just replace the rear left caliper but ended up doing rotor/caliper/pads on both rears. Napa parts. Rotor temps: Rears: ~85F, Fronts: 95-105F. Feeling good.
__________________
Black 2004 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V8 (born again Aug 2014)
DIY: spark plugs, servos for vent and airmix, fender splash shield, seafoam, rear axle seal & parking brake, exhaust muffler tailpipe, rear brakes, hood struts, a/c recharge, front brakes, front struts, rear shocks, ATF exchange, smartphone holder.
Last edited by 46runner; 12-14-2014 at 11:49 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|