Scored rotors or a stamp looking burnt mark on the rotors.

Also, the wheel and the wheel well will get really hot.

When mine went yesterday, the wheel well was so hot when I got my face close, it was easy to tell. And I smelled burnt brake pads and saw smoke, too. Worst one like this I ever saw. What a joke.

The last time it happened I found it by accident, and saw the deep score the metal that was left under the pad material was leaving.

I have an infrared thermometer gun I got from harbor freight. If one wheel is significantly warmer than the others, it's happening.

Also, you can pull the wheels and look for uneven wear on the pads.

Also, if one of your tires wears substantially more than the others, then you probably have it. On my old 4R, one tire had much less tread than the other three. I asked my mechanic to swap the worn tire out and put the spare in service. When he checked it, that's when he told me the caliper was seized, so I needed a new caliper, rotor and pads.

They also said that it was very hot after a test drive.

Search online for the part numbers. You will find several links.

I found that partstrain.com had awesome prices, so I ordered from there.

I'm guessing that the fronts might be in short supply, because everything came within two days, except for the front calipers, which took four days because they were shipped from a warehouse in AZ... and I'm in VA. All the other parts came from warehouses that were much closer to VA.

Here is my old siezed 4th Gen rear caliper (only 7 months of use before it froze up so badly it smoked) and the new 5th Gen caliper side by side.

5th = TOP

4th = BOTTOM

Notice the 2.5mm wider caliper on the 5th Gen.

It bolted on directly with no problem. I reused my 4th Gen rotors.

I'm just amazed that the rebuilt 4th Gen caliper only lasted 7 months.

Pathetic.

I'm hopeful that this new, larger 5th Gen caliper will be better, but I'm not so sure this is the solution to all of these siezed calipers.

Fingers crossed.

Who refurb'ed your 4th gen???? Centric? I'd blame 7 months to shit refurb not the caliper.... Don't most calipers last 10 years before some us see these problems? Spoke with mechanic, he says he gets about 1 4runner a year with a seized caliper... its not good, but other acura's he usually sees 10 times more. I think a lot of these second time seizing has to be something the refurb company is missing. My mechanic gave me the name of what he claims to be the OEM/OE maker for calipers for toyota. He said Advics. Is the who toyota gets their parts from. checking out their site it does like they could be.
Just replaced rear rotor with centric 5th gen. lets see how long it lasts ...

Just replaced my front calipers and rotors with 5th gen with the parts you originally posted up and they are working great. Had to bend the dust shield a bit to get it to fit since it was a little bit bigger.

Thanks

I thought the exact same thing. I bet you are right.

No, they are crapola Duralast (Autozone). I was grinding metal on metal when I found the seized pair of rear calipers back in March of this year, and was travelling 600 miles a week minimum for work. So I slapped those turds on there in desperation.

Good news is I'm only out a bit of my time and a half bottle of brake fluid.

But I was pissed when I smelled that burnt brake smell Fri morning and saw smoke. I just couldn't believe it.

But this is a known nightmare issue with 4th Gen 4runners. I hope we get it sorted one day.

My pedal bounced or pulsated when I hit the brakes. More so at higher speeds. I had Toyota check it out and just a quick look at the calipers, you can see the pistons and see if they look rusty.

Hey guys....so I had a shop do my brakes since I didnt have time about a week ago.

Everything seems good but it feels a bit soft when stepping on the pedal. Anyone else's 4Runner feel like this or is it firm?

I'm trying to get them to bleed it again. He told me well all Toyota's feel soft (even though my original brakes were firm), then he says since I have larger 2010 parts on the front and 2003 on the rear and something with the ABS wont work correct now.

He's full of crap. Your brake pedal should feel as good or better than what it was. For me, I upgraded my lines and the pedal got firmer than what it was. Either take it back to them to rebleed (if they know how to do it properly) or take it elsewhere.

I'm saying he's full of crap, also.

Should be firm. Mine are.

That guy didn't pay attention to detail, most likely.

Firm!!!!!

I just thoight of this: They might improve.

My apologies if you did this already.

Take her out on the interstate and get the brakes hot by dragging them (ie: heat up the rotors and pads till they're glowing, smoking hot).

Then let up for a few miles, and let them cool.

Do this cycle a couple times.

You want some of the pad material to be deposited on the rotor. The heating does this. It lets your pad grip the hell out of your rotor (a lot of crap mechanics skip this step; a lack of attention to detail!).

Then let the brakes cool for 10 minutes by driving (if you do come to a complete stop with the brakes hot like that, it will leave a stamp looking deposit. You don't want that. It'll make the braking uneven slightly. This cooling prevents that).

Bedding in the new pads is important. Over time, this process will happen gradually as you drive it, if the mechanic skips it. This just speeds up the process, and is how a lot of guys go about it.

There are different methods, but this is a fast, easy way I learned from a great mechanic.

If they're still mushy, bleed em and forget it.

Been running my 5th. Gen calipers - rotors for 2 months now. I smile every time I use the brakes. I still have my 4th gen calipers. Even rebuilt them myself then gave up later. They started sticking again soon afterwards... Used 5th Gen calipers from a junkyard, all new Toyota hardware otherwise. I couldn't be happier.

if they weren't properly bleed, and have air in the system no amount of petal will get it it out...