05-25-2017, 04:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt
Based on other peoples input (and looking at the bushings) it seems like for some reason only the very front 2 bushings get compressed. The rest didn't look to be saggy at all, looking at the ridges on them and how close together they are compared to pictures of new. I opted to replace my front two bushings only at time of body lift install. Install took maybe 3 hours with the help of a buddy. It was really pretty simple.
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Any hints to ease the install? (I am guessing Buddy + Beer is a good start)
Any negatives or headaches develop post body lift?
I may end up doing this mod after looking through your post.
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2005 4WD V8 SportEdition MY BUILD
ICON 2.5 resi-Stage 3, K&N CAI, Gibson Exhaust, Ash Tray Kit, Husky Cargo Liner, Husky Floor mats, Rear Diff Breather Extension, Driver side grab handles, 285/70R17 BF T/A K02, RIGID Hyper Spots in Scoop, Grill, Pillar, Rack front and back, Wilson 5000 magnetic, Stryker 490 CB Radio, Gamber Johnson Floor Mount, WILCO rear tire Carrier, Gobi Rack, StopTech Drilled and Slotted Cryo Brake Rotors, RPM Front Bumper, DT Headers (Not installed)
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05-25-2017, 09:42 PM
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#17
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiVel-JR
Yes the original body mount bushings. They probably and more than likely do not need to be replaced, but I figured why not. I am there pulling the car apart and replacing the bolt already... why not swap out the OEM bushings..., and yes they are expensive and you have to open up the "parts" book and look up the part numbers.
I am still on the fence with the whole project. Not sure i really want to spend a day and the money messing with it. I think BlackWorksInc has a build with the part numbers and the costs too.
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The front two body mounts (the ones next to the firewall and radiator support) seemed to be the most worn out when I changed mine out. I don't remember if I took pictures. Basically the No.1 Body Mounts were just trashed, torn and barely together. The No. 2 Body Mounts were worn and you could tell they had been allowing stuff to work it's way under the rubber between the frame and bushing.
It's probably not a bad idea to replace them all (as pricey as it is) if you're doing a body lift on a 10yr/100k+ vehicle.
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05-26-2017, 12:24 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc
It's probably not a bad idea to replace them all (as pricey as it is) if you're doing a body lift on a 10yr/100k+ vehicle.
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I had a feeling you would say that. Ha! : )
AND have no arguments.
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2005 4WD V8 SportEdition MY BUILD
ICON 2.5 resi-Stage 3, K&N CAI, Gibson Exhaust, Ash Tray Kit, Husky Cargo Liner, Husky Floor mats, Rear Diff Breather Extension, Driver side grab handles, 285/70R17 BF T/A K02, RIGID Hyper Spots in Scoop, Grill, Pillar, Rack front and back, Wilson 5000 magnetic, Stryker 490 CB Radio, Gamber Johnson Floor Mount, WILCO rear tire Carrier, Gobi Rack, StopTech Drilled and Slotted Cryo Brake Rotors, RPM Front Bumper, DT Headers (Not installed)
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05-26-2017, 08:40 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Southern IN
Posts: 1,545
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Southern IN
Posts: 1,545
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Hints are: Buy a good kit, I got mine from a 3rd gen member on here who said he made a 4th gen kit but it was for sure not optimized bolt size/length for 4th gen nor for my 1" lift height. He was also not cooperative at all in helping me figure that out. Luckily I was able to drill out his front two blocks and use his bolts cut down for those, stock bolts for the rest. Edit: now I remember you have the toytec kit already, you're golden.
Hardest parts of the install were literally getting the grocery bag hooks off to pry aside the rear cargo interior panels, and releasing clips on the front bumper. Bumpers stretched over the 1" body lift no problem. Radiator shroud pushed down as far as it can and no contact with the fan, no mounting adapters needed. No steering shaft extension needed, only issue I have there is one of the bolt heads rubbing on the Doug Thorley header so I had to use a different headed bolt and grind it down but that's a personal problem. Basically it's as easy as a job can get once you get all the interior removed to get down to the bolts. PB blaster and an impact gun makes quick work of the actual body lift install. You only do one side at a time so just be careful and it'll all line right back up with where you removed it. I followed the write up on toyota120, it was pretty solid other than they did more work to fit the larger blocks.
As far as body mounts go, I can see the argument to replace them all on our "old" vehicles. I'm cheap and only "fixed what was broken" /worn with the front ones, so take a look at yours. If you don't wheel it hard or have terrible roads they might be fine. I also think I saved a couple cents with Febest brand over OEM. 20k miles and they still look new.
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05-26-2017, 02:26 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 1,076
Real Name: Billy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt
Hints are:
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Appreciate the time spent on your post. That does help me.
What i really want to do is get my Doug Thorley Headers installed....
(you mentioned yours)
So far they just sit under my workbench collecting dust.
Thanks again, Billy
__________________
2005 4WD V8 SportEdition MY BUILD
ICON 2.5 resi-Stage 3, K&N CAI, Gibson Exhaust, Ash Tray Kit, Husky Cargo Liner, Husky Floor mats, Rear Diff Breather Extension, Driver side grab handles, 285/70R17 BF T/A K02, RIGID Hyper Spots in Scoop, Grill, Pillar, Rack front and back, Wilson 5000 magnetic, Stryker 490 CB Radio, Gamber Johnson Floor Mount, WILCO rear tire Carrier, Gobi Rack, StopTech Drilled and Slotted Cryo Brake Rotors, RPM Front Bumper, DT Headers (Not installed)
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05-27-2017, 11:53 AM
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#21
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: carrollton,TX/SMU
Age: 28
Posts: 590
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: carrollton,TX/SMU
Age: 28
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassmacka
Any rubbing? did you body mount chop? What is the exact tire size 285/75/17?
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No rubbing anymore. I hardly have a body mount anymore and I cut a ton of the front fenders and bumper cover. and they are big boy tires, 35x12.50r17
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2004 white Limited v8 NOW WITH 35s Build Thread -toytec BOSS front set at 1.5" with 2" spacer and Metaltech LT rear -1" 4crawler BL. -Nitro 4.56 gears. -35x12.50r17 treadwright Guarddog MTs. -swaybars removed. -Ebay uniball UCAs. -RCI skids. -E-locker retrofit with 12voltguy panel and harness. -Shrockworks sliders. - body damage and the such
1989 DLX 4runner SAS BUILD
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11-12-2018, 08:23 AM
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#22
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Canton, Ga
Age: 46
Posts: 47
Real Name: Mike
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Canton, Ga
Age: 46
Posts: 47
Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc
Well, here's my 4th gen after I threw a 1.5" Body Lift to give you an idea:
That's before I installed a new bracket for the front bumper to bring it up an inch.
The rear Bumper will stretch some, so the grey plastic "shelf" at the end will tilt towards the ground rather than look perpendicular.
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Is this with no Suspension lift?
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11-12-2018, 09:26 PM
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#23
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neokhz
Is this with no Suspension lift?
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That's a 3" Suspension lift with a 1.5" body lift and 33" tires in that picture.
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11-13-2018, 03:03 PM
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#24
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 23
Posts: 98
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 23
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Where are you guys getting brackets to lift up your aftermarket bumpers to accommodate a body lift?
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11-18-2018, 01:47 AM
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#25
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NW Arkansas
Age: 26
Posts: 226
Real Name: Cole
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NW Arkansas
Age: 26
Posts: 226
Real Name: Cole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-D-Runner
Where are you guys getting brackets to lift up your aftermarket bumpers to accommodate a body lift?
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Some bumpers come with the option when ordering while some don’t. You can’t buy any brackets that I know of
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03 V8 2WD converted to 4x4 | 3/2” sus lift | 1” BL | 34” Falkens | first Coastal Offroad hybrid bumper | FiberwerX fenders | JBA UCAs | VVTI intake/fuel rail/TB swap | white/green cluster swap
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11-20-2018, 11:00 PM
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#26
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Member
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Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 90
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I personally believe the toytec lift kit is pure shit. It’s under engineered and way to expensive for what they gave me. I put in a 1” last week and am just itching to get to work on my own version and get the toytec out. Their radiator lowering brackets could have been way better. Wait till you put them on and see.
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12-29-2018, 07:26 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Merritt Island, Florida
Posts: 1,603
Real Name: Brett
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Real Name: Brett
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Need to bump this old thread again. Getting ready to do a 1" BL. A question for you guys that installed a 1" without a steering spacer. Do you have to loosen the steering slide clamp to allow for the body to move up? If not where does the "stretch" come from?
Thank you in advance!
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1988 DLX 22RE AUTO BLACK- "Granny" - SOLD
2003 SR5 SPORT V8- Build- "Pearl" You Tube 2UZ 120
2012 LIMITED V6 "LE Mae" 5TH GEN BUILD THREAD
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12-29-2018, 11:24 PM
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#28
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 163
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Idaho
Posts: 163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport
Need to bump this old thread again. Getting ready to do a 1" BL. A question for you guys that installed a 1" without a steering spacer. Do you have to loosen the steering slide clamp to allow for the body to move up? If not where does the "stretch" come from?
Thank you in advance!
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Yes you do need to losen the clamp,there was no other "stretch" in my 04 steering shaft.
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04-19-2020, 03:56 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas City
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Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
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Senior Member
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Location: Kansas City
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Real Name: Howard J. Turkstra
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Reviving an old thread. I have the Toytec 1” body lift kit ready to install when it gets warmer outside (Chicago area).
Is the steering slide clamp the nut under the hood or the joint on the driver’s side of the firewall where the steering spacer normally goes?
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04-19-2020, 04:36 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Merritt Island, Florida
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Real Name: Brett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ads2539
Reviving an old thread. I have the Toytec 1” body lift kit ready to install when it gets warmer outside (Chicago area).
Is the steering slide clamp the nut under the hood or the joint on the driver’s side of the firewall where the steering spacer normally goes?
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This is the steering slide clamp, there was just enough stretch for mine.
__________________
1988 DLX 22RE AUTO BLACK- "Granny" - SOLD
2003 SR5 SPORT V8- Build- "Pearl" You Tube 2UZ 120
2012 LIMITED V6 "LE Mae" 5TH GEN BUILD THREAD
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