The Engine Is A Goner, Warped Head And Long Block!! - Page 3 - Toyota

riverider · #31 (**permalink**) 05-21-2009, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by eskimochaos
False, there is a GX owner on another forum whose engine hit the red line on the temp gauge more than once due to a dirty radiator.

There are no ill effects on the engine at all and has resumed normal operation after a through cleaning.

Well I bet the over heating did not do his engine any real good.

As time pass's the real truth will show up. It might not be a complete failure, but small thing like using more oil have happened to many others who have not heeded over heating items.

EH007 · #32 (**permalink**) 05-21-2009, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by eskimochaos
False, there is a GX owner on another forum whose engine hit the red line on the temp gauge more than once due to a dirty radiator.

There are no ill effects on the engine at all and has resumed normal operation after a through cleaning.

LOL

MAC4Runner · #33 (**permalink**) 05-22-2009, 11:47 AM

x3

Mods - Any chance we can clean up this thread. I'm looking forward to the write-up from the_josh.

peter78 · #34 (**permalink**) 05-22-2009, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by eskimochaos
I can tell your a salesman because of all the bull$hit that comes out of your mouth.

No personal attacks.

Quote:

Originally posted by MAC4Runner
x3

Mods - Any chance we can clean up this thread. I'm looking forward to the write-up from the_josh.

I was just going to warn members, but it has gotten a little out of hand. You are absolutely correct, let's stick to the write up & I will clean this thread up. Thanks.

the_josh · #35 (**permalink**) 05-27-2009, 11:18 PM

Before the work Started:

removed the drained the radiatior and removed it, along with the fan and fan shroud

removal of the serpentine belt and start un bolting the starter (not pictured)

unbolting of the power steering pump and just leave it connected

the_josh · #36 (**permalink**) 05-27-2009, 11:19 PM

unbolting the a/c compressor

next we removed the starter, and unbolted the flywheel from the transmission (it was too hard to get the angle for the camera, i will try to get it when we install the engine) then we unbolted the exhaust manifolds and pulled one out and left one on

the fuel needed for the day

it was a pretty simple process to remove the engine, next we are getting ready to pull it out, we forgot to disconnect the fuel lines just as we were hoisting the engine out!! no damage though

the_josh · #37 (**permalink**) 05-27-2009, 11:20 PM

its out!!!

notice the new wheels, only a day old and no chance to enjoy them yet haha, the clearance was low for pulling the engine out so we ended up deflatting the tires for a few extra inches

posin with the 4.0

almost out,

look at all that space!!!

hangin by a chain...

the_josh · #38 (**permalink**) 05-27-2009, 11:21 PM

thought i might relax and enjoy a beer

hoppin out

the new engine to be, freshly stripped

new water pump

the work area...

old engine...

new engine...

SecretAgent · #39 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 02:44 AM

dude, no offense, but your buddy is wrong about your engine being unrepairable. i'm nearly 99% sure all you did was blow a headgasket. if both the block and head were warped there would be no possible way the cylinder would be able to build 199psi when you did the compression test. and even still, i would NEVER diagnose a warped head and block without physically taking it out and MEASURING it. its the only surefire way to tell for sure. and when a headgasket is 70 bucks, opposed to a $1500 longblock, i'd always recommend checking the head and block before tossing it out.

the_josh · #40 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SecretAgent
dude, no offense, but your buddy is wrong about your engine being unrepairable. i'm nearly 99% sure all you did was blow a headgasket. if both the block and head were warped there would be no possible way the cylinder would be able to build 199psi when you did the compression test. and even still, i would NEVER diagnose a warped head and block without physically taking it out and MEASURING it. its the only surefire way to tell for sure. and when a headgasket is 70 bucks, opposed to a $1500 longblock, i'd always recommend checking the head and block before tossing it out.

the engine will be opened up and inspected and we'll find out for sure, how do you explained the compression leak down test blowing constant air out of the radiator?
and also when we pulled the engine there is also external leakage on the left cyclinder head in several places

eskimochaos · #41 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 05:57 AM

This is just awesome!! Keep up with the updates please!

Good luck!

riverider · #42 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 08:13 AM

Now that really looked like a lot of fun. NOT!!!

peter78 · #43 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by the_josh
thought i might relax and enjoy a beer

Man, great pictures. Just chilling out. Can't wait to see the install. Keep up the good work.

brucemoose2 · #44 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by the_josh
... how do you explained the compression leak down test blowing constant air out of the radiator?
and also when we pulled the engine there is also external leakage on the left cyclinder head in several places

A blown head gasket can cause both of those symptoms. The existence of an external leak doesn't necessarily imply that the block or head is warped. It's probably not fun hearing this, but I agree that it's totally plausible that you just had a blown head gasket. No one can say for sure but you since you're the guy with the engine in front of you.

Good luck with your project. Bottom line is that when you're done, your 4Runner should be working just fine.

the_josh · #45 (**permalink**) 05-28-2009, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by brucemoose2
A blown head gasket can cause both of those symptoms. The existence of an external leak doesn't necessarily imply that the block or head is warped. It's probably not fun hearing this, but I agree that it's totally plausible that you just had a blown head gasket. No one can say for sure but you since you're the guy with the engine in front of you.

Good luck with your project. Bottom line is that when you're done, your 4Runner should be working just fine.

you guys are pretty much preaching to the choir, i am aware it can just be the headgasket, but it really comes down to time, with the engine to access the head (unlike older models) you need to pull the timing chain cover which is the front half of the engine, remove the oil pan, oil sump (lower half of the engine) basically dismantling the whole complete engine and then we have to do the tests to see for sure and the have the pleasure of putting it all back together and since its a vvt-i its just makes it so much more complicated, as i mentioned earlier with the other cases in other cars- all the techs replaced the engine, the way i look at it is im paying 1400 for a young engine, not just repairing a 120k engine so its cost and time effective in this situation, believe me, we have thoroughly researched this whole process and spoke with many many people that have done the same thing personally- and the route we are taking was suggested being the best route so we'll see right?

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