I would have to look to be sure, but I believe it's at 60,000 miles for the first service if towing, but for sure it's every 30,000 miles from then on, and since my T4R had over 60,000 miles on it when bought it and from what I saw when I changed the fluid I doubt it had ever been done before, I do the complete fluid exchange every 30,000 miles from when I bought it and will continue, I plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off, then I gonna jack it up and put new wheels on it and drive it until forever or the wheels fall off agian, then rise and repeat until....etc., etc., I only paid $5900 for it so I can't go wrong with it no matter how much I put into it to keep it road worthy, I can't imagine anything on it would cost me more than a year or two of car payments to keep it going on down the road, unless it get wrecked, and if that happens I will then sell it for parts and or scrap.

All the money I save from not making car payments will be going into a saving account for what the future holds or another good used T4R on down the road, I WILL NEVER BUY A NEW VEHICLE, never have and never will, you lose so much money just driving them off the lot and paying interest, I pay cash for any vehicle I buy.

Do you do the flush yourself via the oil lines that go into the radiator? For me the oil seems to look new by just doing a drain and fill every year after I did a 13ish quart flush.

Yeah, I also got mine used in 2010. However, it was just recently I heavily modded it so now it's not allowed to die.

Yes, I do all of my own mechanical work, even if I ever have to rebuild the engine or trasmission, etc.

If I didn't tow I would be fine doing a drain and fill periodically, but as mentioned, I do and I want this baby to last as long as possible, I have yet to do the second fluid replacement so I may change my interval upon inspection of how the fluid looks, but since I'm only looking at doing it approx. every 4 years I don't might doing a complete fluid replacement even if the fluid looks to be fine, I look at it as cheap insurance.

Well 10 months and 12k miles after my dealership full fluid replacement, and the shudder is back. It’s pretty slight, but definitely there. Looks like it’s Shuddrr Fixx for me. I may end up going with Maxlife for a little more viscosity after another couple years.

Lot of good info here.
Can anyone help me define:
1) Drain & Fill
2) Flush
3) Fluid Change
4) Drop the pan

I tried to read most of the 20 pages, but this is my

1) Drain & Fill = is this just that and less invasive......just let it drain out and put new TF in there.
or
2) Flush = is more of a push of new TF fluid through.
3) Fluid Change = same thing as a Drain & Fill???

From what i read, a drain and fill seems harmless and could solve the issue while a Flush could solve the problem but has a higher risk of creating more problems while stirring up some particles.


2006 Toyota 4runner limited
155,000 miles
4WD - all time
Shudder comes around the 35 - 45mph range.
Stops when foot taken off gas.

No previous record of transmission work done since I purchased in 2012.
In 2015, my regular mechanic found the transmission line fitting in radiator was loose and was leaking and he just tightened.

Shudder recently started.....took to my regular mechanic.
Regular mechanic recommended adding the SF.
It was added to to the transmission (no change, drain, refill, flush, etc)....just added.
Drove it around some more and shudder continued.
I have taken to a transmission specialist for a diagnostic.
Transmission mech. plugged in the computer and drove around.....
Said he got some coding errors, one being the Anti- Brake Sensor or something.
Said it could be a number of things.....torque converter or "Lock Up" in the clutch.
Said he doesn't really know what the issue is until he takes a closer look by "dropping the pan".
From what i gathered, dropping the pan is when he would take off the bottom part of the transmission to see what kind of material has collected.
Is that correct??
I assume that would mean just a drain and re-fill.....where he would fill it back with TF.
Said the cost would be about $380 for dropping the pan & diagnostic.

Just want to take the next step that has the least risk/consequences.

Thanks,

RON

I got the Toyota shutter in my tranny. It would start shaking the vehicle around 30-40 mph. I flushed the trans and replaced the filter. Never felt it again.

2007 4runner sport v6 145,000 miles.

filter ?

For those of you who added shudder fixx without flushing or draining your fluid how did you do it? I can't figure out an easy way to get the tube through the fill hole.

I just had my transmission serviced about 5k miles ago before I found this thread thinking it would fix my rumble strip issue (didn't help at all). I would like to avoid having to pay to have it flushed again...

So update on my transmission flush. I have 1200 miles on the new fluid. I only did a flush of 12 quarts and the shaking is completely gone.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

I believe that I may have the shudder beginning to occur. Had the fluid drained and refilled 2 times 20k miles ago when first bought.

Going to try and drain/refill again. Is there a difference between the Lubegard Platinum vs the Lubegard Shudder Fixx? From what I gather the Platinum has this "shudder fixx" formula included in it?

Not sure what the difference is between the 2 but this is what they says about the Platinum and the shudder issue on their website.....

"Contains patented Synergol® TMS Technology, a synthetic molecule that tightens the shift cycle without losing the friction modification at lockup, which eliminates shudder
Eliminates torque converter shudders"

I didn't have time to drain mine and all that before a trip so I just add the shudder fix stuff and after a short while it almost stopped. After a week or two it was gone. It's been a few thousand miles and so far so good. I don't usually go for miracle cures, but this has worked so far.

Had this same issue on my 08 at around 125k. By chance, I decided to clean my MAF, swap out plugs, replace belts and whatnot at that time so I disconnected the battery and did my thing. I also removed and reinstalled the ECU fuses just for general purpose. After the initial stumbling the car does after startup when resetting all that, I noticed the shudder was gone when driving around. I'm at 173K now and it has never returned.

I've read that this remedy worked for some in previous threads, it worked for me.

When you say serviced, what does that entail? I did a 12 quart flush all at once, after the new Castrol ATF got a chance to wash all the clutch packs inside, everything is now working like new. This should have been the same for you. If you look at my previous post you'll see that my fluid was black. The Toyota Type WS transmission fluid is absolute garbage. They say its "lifetime" fluid but that actually means the length of their powertrain warranty. Then when you dig further we all basically fall under the "severe" standards of the warranty length. So that means that you're not good for 100k with that fluid you're more like 60k if you are in a cool environment and don't town. Also the stock fluid breaks down very fast when it gets hot and then creates deposits that stick to your clutch packs making your transmission slip. Think about it as a perfectly good piece of sandpaper that is clogged with paint, the grip is still there but it needs to be cleaned. That's what this crappy stock fluid does. I would suggest a 12 quart flush and then add the shudder fix if you want. I never added shudder fix the new tranny fluid did the job. I have 3,000 miles on new fluid and I drive the thing like I stole it, I also will down shift to use the engine to help slow me down. Everything has been working very nice. I will be changing the fluid to AMSOIL at 5,000 miles. If you need AMSOIL let me know, I'm an authorized dealer.

My V8/Sport 4wd still has a torque converter shudder. Had the driveshaft balanced, tried shudder fix too. We have 148k miles on it and currently planning to get a couple quotes. The first shop, which comes highly recommended said $3600-$3800 for a rebuilt trans. I’m sorry, I’m not dumping 4 grand into a truck that’s maybe worth 6-7 grand. I’m hoping I can get this problem resolved for less than 3 grand. My other issue is, what’s next? I know it needs a power steering pump. This is where my husband and I disagree. He doesn’t see anything wrong with dumping thousands into a car that is 14 years old as long as we don’t have a payment. We do tow with it and need 4wd. My feeling is, if the problem can be fixed for a few grand, fine. However, are we putting off the inevitable? At some point, we’re going to have to do something.
I work for Nissan (ironic? Isn’t it?) and I can get a titan for dealer cost with zero percent 60mo financing. I don’t want a car payment. Nobody does. But I don’t want to dump thousands into a 14, almost 15 year old car. Does anyone have a thought? Keep your fingers crossed as in a couple weeks, I should know what our options are.