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Old 06-08-2012, 07:54 PM #1
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Budbuilt sliders install - quick questions

I am trying to install some BB sliders on my TE, and I need some quick help from those that have done this:

1. How many bolts did you use per side? Bud sent 15 but I dont see how I could use that many.

2. On the passenger side, there is that bracket with the kdss line. Does the whole bracket come outside the slider? The bracket appears to have a notch that clips into the frame, so I cant tell. Does the slider go between the two parts of this bracket?

Note: this job is a pita solo. Hard to position the slider just so, and get the bolts to start threading correctly.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:20 PM #2
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Brackets for the KDSS, brake lines, and gas tank skid should be reattached to the sliders (brakes and gas tank skid for sure, i dont have kdss)
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:36 PM #3
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Passenger side is up fine, although i could only find use for 9 bolts. I had to use one of the longer BB bolts to reattach the kdss line bracket; the stock one was too short.

More issues on the drivers side. My brake lines are too tight against the frame to get the sliders in there. And in the front how to you work around those hard (brake?) lines? Thoughts?
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:31 PM #4
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Its been awhile since I did it.

I think it was:

pry bar

and balls

look at the pictures of my install in the link in my sig. that may help you. I had an install write up on the 120 forum also.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:45 PM #5
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Glad someone started this topic. I was part of the mass batch that Bud just sent out and I was going to start working on it today until I saw how many things I had to unbolt on the driver side on my TE with KDSS.

I was just unsure what needs to be unbolted. The pass side is seems easy enough. Going to wait for a friend help tomorrow and hopefully get it done within a few hours.

Thanks ahead of the time for all the responses.
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:03 AM #6
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You won't use all of the hardware he provides. Simply line-up the holes on the slider mounts as best you can with those on the frame and then put a bolt and washer into each hole on the frame that's threaded. Don't forget the bottom holes, too. All mounting brackets that are on the frame now need to be bolted on to the outside of the slider attachment points if they're in the way.
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:42 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalblock View Post
Glad someone started this topic. I was part of the mass batch that Bud just sent out and I was going to start working on it today until I saw how many things I had to unbolt on the driver side on my TE with KDSS.
Yes, the passenger side is pretty easy. There's just the one KDSS line to move out of the way. I think I used 9 bolts in total on the passenger side.

The brackets for all of the lines have little lips on them that grab into a hole in the frame. I bent those back with pliers. I also changed out most of the original bolts for the longer BB ones, since I had extras.

The drivers side is tough. Take the gas skid down, then unbolt everything else off of the side of the frame. The hard part is going to be getting the slider up around the hard lines in the front, where they angle under the frame. I finally got mine by laying the back end down, and a using bunch of force. Then put the front on a jack stand. Next start to bring the back up, but you'll need a long flathead screwdriver to pry the lines away from the frame while you lift the slider up against the frame.

Finally, it's best to get everything bolted up, and check the way it all lies before you tighten up the bolts for good. For the washers to lay flat around the welds, you might need to push it up or back a bit.

- - - - - -

Well, mine are up now. Only remaining issues are that two of my rear bottom bolts, that go thru the gas skid and then the slider, don't seem to want to thread straight. I tried some different bolts, but none of them will tighten up level. Maybe the holes weren't drilled straight?

Also one of the brackets on the hard lines got mangled during the prying and lifting, and doesn't want to go back together. There's not much room to work in there, so I might just replace that with a new one.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:07 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quetico View Post

The brackets for all of the lines have little lips on them that grab into a hole in the frame. I bent those back with pliers. I also changed out most of the original bolts for the longer BB ones, since I had extras.

The drivers side is tough. Take the gas skid down, then unbolt everything else off of the side of the frame. The hard part is going to be getting the slider up around the hard lines in the front, where they angle under the frame. I finally got mine by laying the back end down, and a using bunch of force. Then put the front on a jack stand. Next start to bring the back up, but you'll need a long flathead screwdriver to pry the lines away from the frame while you lift the slider up against the frame.

Finally, it's best to get everything bolted up, and check the way it all lies before you tighten up the bolts for good. For the washers to lay flat around the welds, you might need to push it up or back a bit.
So I tried to install the sliders this morning. I got all the bolts unbolted on the driver side and the lines would not come loose. It seems like they are almost glued on. I didn't want to keep on prying them and having them break all together. I am going to try to take it to my buddies shop and get the truck lifted and see if I can get them on that way.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:40 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mentalblock View Post
So I tried to install the sliders this morning. I got all the bolts unbolted on the driver side and the lines would not come loose. It seems like they are almost glued on. I didn't want to keep on prying them and having them break all together. I am going to try to take it to my buddies shop and get the truck lifted and see if I can get them on that way.
Those hard lines do not come off. Thats why the job is such a pita. You have to work the slider on over/around them.

I mentioned it above, but try to lift just the front and work the plate behind those lines. You'll need someone else to lift the back, once you get the front over. Good luck!
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:25 PM #10
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Angry Passenger side bolt PITA worst spot ever



Having a little difficulty getting to this top left bolt near the XRES line on the passenger side. All others are loosened and ready to go save for this little bugger.

Shout out to @Antman for excellent advice as usual in regards to trimming the rocker panels!!! You rock and I owe you many

 photo photo3_zps9dd45630.jpg

I can get a socket on the bolt, but not the wrench on the socket!

 photo photo2_zpsb21e525a.jpg

 photo photo1_zps947c3cb2.jpg


Thanks in advance all you cool cats rock as usual!!!
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Last edited by pobando; 02-15-2014 at 03:26 PM. Reason: mispelled word
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:44 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pobando View Post


Having a little difficulty getting to this top left bolt near the XRES line on the passenger side. All others are loosened and ready to go save for this little bugger.

Shout out to @Antman for excellent advice as usual in regards to trimming the rocker panels!!! You rock and I owe you many

 photo photo3_zps9dd45630.jpg

I can get a socket on the bolt, but not the wrench on the socket!

 photo photo2_zpsb21e525a.jpg

 photo photo1_zps947c3cb2.jpg


Thanks in advance all you cool cats rock as usual!!!
Just throw a box wrench behind there to break it loose. You only need to turn it a little and then you can turn it out by hand...

Glad the rockers worked out BTW.
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:52 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pobando View Post


Having a little difficulty getting to this top left bolt near the XRES line on the passenger side. All others are loosened and ready to go save for this little bugger.

Shout out to @Antman for excellent advice as usual in regards to trimming the rocker panels!!! You rock and I owe you many

I can get a socket on the bolt, but not the wrench on the socket!

Thanks in advance all you cool cats rock as usual!!!
Hard to tell from the pics how much clearance you really have to work with.... but maybe a swivel head ratcheting wrench to be able to swing out the body/grip?
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