04-21-2016, 07:45 PM
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#76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
This wiring harness (above) is so well built! The relay is a 'standard' 12V spst sealed 30A unit. What I like about this is should the relay go bad, I can run into 'Auto-zone' on any day (even Sunday) and pick one up; no need to send it back to the company and wait for them to send another one back to me, it even came with a 30 amp 'In-line fuse' & holder!
@ Jeremy556
was right... the intensity of the small (8 inch) lamp is incredible! I hope that someone looking for a 'Rigid LED' alternative will at least consider the 'OPT7 C2 series'. There built 100% in the USA, cost is about 1/3 that of the BIG names, come with FREE S&H, 50,000 hrs life span, 5 star reviews, GREAT C/S and a comparable limited warranty! Amazon.com: opt7 c2 led light bar
Cheers!
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@ rigtec
, as I was shuffling through all of the old posts and finding different ways to hook up my led to AOB switch I found this post with the wiring harness I plan on using. When you hooked it up did you install the 1 amp diode that is recommended on the AOB diagram between the relay and AOB/Slee switches or are you able to just attach this relay directly to the AOB/Slee switch? Is it not necessary with this type of relay? Please excuse my ignorance I just want to make sure I have all of the things I need to get it done the right way.
I don't want this to happen (Great Thread by the way!).
To switch or not to switch...
The relay in question...
http://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Offroad-L...Q9FEK2STD6M751
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04-21-2016, 08:31 PM
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#77
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Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cymon
@ rigtec
, as I was shuffling through all of the old posts and finding different ways to hook up my led to AOB switch I found this post with the wiring harness I plan on using. When you hooked it up did you install the 1 amp diode that is recommended on the AOB diagram between the relay and AOB/Slee switches or are you able to just attach this relay directly to the AOB/Slee switch? Is it not necessary with this type of relay? Please excuse my ignorance I just want to make sure I have all of the things I need to get it done the right way.
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Hi Cymon,
You won't need to use anti-feedback diode unless you plan to integrate this new LED device into a stock factory system such as your bright-lights, to prevent creating a 'Shunting (alternative) electrical path' for current to travel backwards through when not intended to and causing light bulbs to light up when they shouldn't.
I didn't need to use any diodes because all of my aftermarket lighting systems are on their own independent circuits. They all have their own switches (AOB, slee off-road...), they have their own fuses and are powered directly by the main battery, so no feedback issues!
And don't worry about that write-up "To switch or not switch", I didn't burn my main body ECU, but because I didn't know then what I know now I felt I had somehow destroyed my own truck's computer... Just kill the power when working in the dash on the electrical system, and of course, check your work against a reliable wiring diagram; which I didn't have at the time that I did mine!
Nothing unusual about OPT7's relay or harness parts; never gave me one oz of trouble... Sometimes when I get too board I'll build my own relay harnesses cuz parts are so cheap and readily available online... you have no worries,
rig Cheers!
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2012 Limited (in bliz) Black leather interior.
Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
Last edited by rigtec; 04-23-2016 at 10:16 PM.
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04-21-2016, 08:37 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,889
Real Name: Chris
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,889
Real Name: Chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
Hi Cymon,
You won't need to use anti-feedback diode unless you plan to integrate this new LED device into a stock factory system such as your bright-lights, to prevent creating a 'Shunting (alternative) electrical path' for current to travel backwards through when not intended to and causing light bulbs to light up when they shouldn't.
I didn't need to use any diodes because all of my aftermarket lighting systems are on their own independent circuits. They all have their own switches (AOB, slee off-road...), they have their own fuses and are powered directly by the main battery, so no feedback issues!
And don't worry about that write-up "To switch or not switch", I didn't burn my main body ECU, but because I didn't know then what I know now I felt I had somehow destroyed my own truck's computer... Just kill the power when working in the dash on the electrical system, and of course, check your work against a reliable wiring diagram; which I didn't have at the time that I did mine!
Nothing unusual about OPT7's relay or harness parts; never gave my one oz of trouble... Sometimes when I get too board I'll build my own relay harnesses cuz parts are so cheap and readily available online... you have no worries,
rig Cheers!
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Thank you! Couldn't have asked for a better response! I'm not planning on integrating into any factory wiring, just straight plug and play (hopefully)
__________________
2015 SR5 Premium 4wd Magnetic Grey w/3rd row: Frontrunner Slimline II 3/4 Rack - Yakima Skybox 16 - Weathertech - 22" Behind Grill Light Bar - TRD Skid w/Full Aluminum RCI Skids - RCI Sliders - Falken AT3 265 SL - Lamin-X - Taxa Cricket
"If I Can Do it You Can" Light Bar Install
ARB Breather Mod
Cymon's Weekend Warrior/MFD Thread
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04-21-2016, 10:54 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cymon
Thank you! Couldn't have asked for a better response! I'm not planning on integrating into any factory wiring, just straight plug and play (hopefully)
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Then you'll be just fine, Rgds!
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2012 Limited (in bliz) Black leather interior.
Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
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04-22-2016, 08:45 AM
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#80
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I have the same lights, harness, and switch.
Looks like I need to hack up the opt7 harness a bit by chopping off the switch that comes with it and then connecting the AOB switch. Will be looking for an unused plug under the dash for the gray wire connection to illuminate the switch.
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04-23-2016, 06:40 PM
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#81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
I have the same lights, harness, and switch.
Looks like I need to hack up the opt7 harness a bit by chopping off the switch that comes with it and then connecting the AOB switch. Will be looking for an unused plug under the dash for the gray wire connection to illuminate the switch.
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In looking at the opt7 harness and figuring out how to use the AOB switch instead of the supplied one, it looks like the relay connection is backwards...pin 86 is connected to battery neg, while the blue switched hot goes to 85.
If it doesn't matter that the 85/86 can be backwards, it looks I connect as follows:
AOB green - opt7 white
AOB red - opt7 blue
AOB black - opt7 black
AOB blue - to auto illumination circuit grey
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
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04-23-2016, 10:25 PM
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#82
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bergenfield NJ.
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
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Real Name: Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
In looking at the opt7 harness and figuring out how to use the AOB switch instead of the supplied one, it looks like the relay connection is backwards...pin 86 is connected to battery neg, while the blue switched hot goes to 85.
If it doesn't matter that the 85/86 can be backwards, it looks I connect as follows:
AOB green - opt7 white
AOB red - opt7 blue
AOB black - opt7 black
AOB blue - to auto illumination circuit grey
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Hi cheeser,
No it doesn't matter whether you connect #85 or #86 to GND or HOT to trigger your relay coil. As long you remember that #30 and #87 are N/O (normally open) contacts, and #30 and #87A are N/C (normally closed) contacts you should be fine!
Cheers!
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2012 Limited (in bliz) Black leather interior.
Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
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04-24-2016, 10:40 AM
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#83
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New Hampshire
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Hey
@ rigtec
,
My 2 cents on the diode question, will a non diode relay work perfectly fine, absolutely. But, with modern automotive electronics, I prefer to use relays that incorporate a internal diode to prevent voltage spikes when relay disengages (turns off).
Relays without diodes you can A) solder diode to terminals on relay, or B) add diode to harness...........
I prefer internal opposed to external method because of corrosion issues.
Keep up the great work buddy!
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Last edited by barryhiram; 04-24-2016 at 05:24 PM.
Reason: wrong picture posted
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04-24-2016, 11:17 AM
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#84
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I am curious as to why opt7 wired their relay backwards across 85/86?
I assume I could easily switch them (small pick for the retainer). I don't think they used a diode based relay, but that could be easily switched as well after switching inputs.
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
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04-24-2016, 02:37 PM
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#85
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bergenfield NJ.
Posts: 2,606
Real Name: Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryhiram
Hey
@ rigtec
,
My 2 cents on the diode question, will a non diode relay work perfectly fine, absolutely. But, with modern automotive electronics, I prefer to use relays that incorporate a internal diode to prevent voltage spikes when relay disengages (turns off). ...I prefer internal opposed to external method because of corrosion issues.
Keep up the great work buddy!
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See... this is what i love about this forum, I learn something new here everyday, Thanks Barry!
...and of course Best to you!
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08-29-2016, 09:33 AM
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#86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
In looking at the opt7 harness and figuring out how to use the AOB switch instead of the supplied one, it looks like the relay connection is backwards...pin 86 is connected to battery neg, while the blue switched hot goes to 85.
If it doesn't matter that the 85/86 can be backwards, it looks I connect as follows:
AOB green - opt7 white
AOB red - opt7 blue
AOB black - opt7 black
AOB blue - to auto illumination circuit grey
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I followed the above AOB to Opt7 harness wiring combination. The AOB switch illumination stays on even with the key out. Did you have the same result and how did you fix it? TIA
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08-29-2016, 11:21 AM
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#87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimster716
I followed the above AOB to Opt7 harness wiring combination. The AOB switch illumination stays on even with the key out. Did you have the same result and how did you fix it? TIA
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Pretty sure you will need to switch your white and blue wires.
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08-29-2016, 11:47 AM
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#88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarey86
Pretty sure you will need to switch your white and blue wires.
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That's what it sounds like from a previous post I saw in another thread. Thanks you!
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08-29-2016, 01:22 PM
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#89
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"If I can do It You Can" Behind Grill Light Bar Install
Post #12 in the link above has the correct wiring for OPT7 harness to AOB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimster716
I followed the above AOB to Opt7 harness wiring combination. The AOB switch illumination stays on even with the key out. Did you have the same result and how did you fix it? TIA
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"If I Can Do it You Can" Light Bar Install
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Cymon's Weekend Warrior/MFD Thread
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08-29-2016, 01:36 PM
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#90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cymon
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Thank you, sir! Wish I would've seen this before I soldered the wires. But no big deal.
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