I want to get my tent set up and getting an aftermarket rack just isn't in the budget right now. I know the factory rack will be fine (load limit is 132, tent is 120) for now but I'm not sure the hardware that I've been using/what came with the tent will work. The roof crossbars are 2-1/2" wide and about 2" from the top of the bar to the roof for clearance. the bolts that came with my tent are 2" and the steel plates that go under the crossbars are only 1-3/4" to the edges of the holes. So either the bolts will be hitting the bottom plate at an angle (not good) or the bolt ends could be touching the roof (really not good).
Anybody with a RTT on their factory rack: did you need new (shorter) bolts? Did you fab new (wider) plates? Give me some pics! I wanna go camping!

I am thinking of doing the same thing, there is not a perfect rack out yet . More options are starting to come out on our trucks, so hang in there.

Well perfect roof racks exist...but I'd have to sell a kidney to get one!

What tent do you have? I have a CVT Bachelor. I talked with them and they say they've had folks put the tents on the factory racks with no issue - just not sure how they got it up there in the first place!

I just got the okay to get one, I am getting in the group buy.

I have heard that also, I am taking the summer off for camping if I can so I don't have the time.

Factory crossbars are not something I'd use. Get a set of Thule or Yakima crossbars and you won't have either problem. You could even borrow some of you needed to. The factory ones are not rated for anything heavier than a Christmas tree.

Yakima RailGrab 8000140 Roof Rack Crossbar Package

Can you mount a (RTT) with factory rails and aftermarket cross bars?

I don't have the factory rack, but the Baja flat utility rack is actually shorter than the factory rails. I didn't have any issues with the ARB bolts touching the roof, but it was a real pain in the ass to thread the nyloc nuts with so little clearance. I replaced with shorter bolts (stainless) and used lock washers with regular nuts instead of nyloc. I can't remember the length of the bolts I ended up with but I just grabbed one each in a few different lengths, went out to the truck and eyeballed them against the rack, then went back and bought a bunch more in the right length.

I use the Thule cross bars on the factory rails. Works perfect, yes its a little higher than it could be, but its perfectly fine.

Thule 45058 is the part number I used.

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I agree with the above:

- get shorter bolts (or cut your current ones)
- get better cross bars so that the original mounting hardware still works

happy camping.

What group buy?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=194242

*sigh* thanks guys....

I was still holding out hope that I could use my factory rack but now I'm 99% sure I can't/won't. The RTT is 120lbs, the rails are stamped at a max load of 130lbs but the owners' manual says not to go above 120lbs. I really don't want to max out the rack so I've researched all options. You'd think they'd have engineered the rack a little better...
Anywho... I'm between getting some Thule crossbars (figured they'd be easy to resell once I can upgrade to a real rack) or just biting the bullet and getting a more permanent solution now. I think the Front Runner racks are my favorite - they seem to be the lowest profile which is what I want. That's the biggest downside to the Thule bars - the height - I wanted to keep things as low as possible. Gaah!

The Rocky-Road system which utilizes the factory roof rails may be the option you are looking for-

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So are we talking 120lbs on the factory crossbars or the front to back rails? I'm curious as to how a 130lb w.l.l. with a tent works once you put a human up there?