[enapa]

No way a strap/chain wrench would work?

[THESS]

I personally didnt use that tool. I used AJ aka Fotornr lol

[nb rob]

Great thread!!

Looking forward to more

[Bighead2001]

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by enapa

No way a strap/chain wrench would work?

Pulley will get messed up.....and the torque is simply way too high. They are locked on with red threadlocker and way over 200 ft/lbs. You need at least 800 to break it loose.

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by THESS

I personally didnt use that tool. I used AJ aka Fotornr lol

So how did you torque it to spec going back on. My guess is you just got it close enough with the impact.. which is probably fine....

[Trixx]

Originally Posted by LawnDart

Same about the indecisiveness. I plan to make mexico trips a lot more often, and a SC would be a poor choice for countries of lower grade octane.

How about the additives to increase the fuels octane? Would be a mild pain but also wouldn’t be a regular thing.

[wfo9]

A little more info on the kit and blower...

Attached is a picture of the meat of the blower. This includes the compressor itself and the charged air cooler/intake all in what is basically one piece.

The actuator with the yellow sticker on the front is the bypass valve. This closes to produce boost. Otherwise it just recirculates air back into the inlet side by opening a butterfly valve.

The blue tape on the front is where the throttle body goes.

The two ports with blue tape on the back are where coolant goes in and out of the water->air cooler.

It is a very well thought out compact design.

Some other interesting facts.
- The stock fuel injectors, MAF, and all sensors are retained
- The park splugs are replaced with a cooler plug and smaller gap
- The blower itself runs on it's own belt, tensioner... all existing accessories continue to run on the stock belt/pulley system...
- The pump that circulates coolant to and from the heat exchanger up front is electric, bosch
- The blower itself is oiled internally. No external oil source or oil change is needed (although I think there may be a way to service the compressor after about 90k miles that includes new oil.. I'm not clear on this yet)
- The blower crank pulley is slightly underdriven compared to the crank pulley
- The actual compressor pulley seems to be 2.4"

[enapa]

Originally Posted by wfo9

Pulley will get messed up.....and the torque is simply way too high. They are locked on with red threadlocker and way over 200 ft/lbs. You need at least 800 to break it loose.

Hm. Worked fine on my 3rd gen. Is the 5th gen torqued down that much more?

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by enapa

Hm. Worked fine on my 3rd gen. Is the 5th gen torqued down that much more?

IDK.. I just would not trust a chain wrench on my crank pulley (too much damage potential). It took almost everything I had with a 4ft cheater pipe... so it was on there... I think some monster impact guns could probably do it without something to lock it..., but holding with pure friction (like a chain wrench) just seems problematic to me.

The simplest way is usually the starter and a cheater bar on the frame. but I'm not sure I would try it on this one. .Might shatter something. However I do that on my 22re all the time with no issues.

I saw somewhere that is set at 290ft/lbs from the factory. Not sure how accurate that is, but it was on there good....A very strong electric impact would clearly be the place to start if you have access to one.... but it still has to go back on.

[6172crew]

If this setup adds an extra 100ft lbs of torque im going to step up. Wouldbe nice to see some numbers come in now that the kits are making it to customers. Thanks for taking the time to let us pekk at your setup.

[themuffinman619]

Originally Posted by wfo9

The next few steps in the install involve stripping off the intake system. Normally you just remove the plastic intake parts exposing the aluminum intake ports (which the blower charged air cooler box bolts directly to).. However, I found quite a bit of oily grime down in my intake runners/head ports and decided to pull that and give it a good cleaning also. It was not difficult to pull, but not fun job since some gas has to spill out of the fuel rails... To clarify, that step is not part of the normal install and it added quite a bit of time. I just had trouble not cleaning it up while I was in there.

The oil comes from the PCV and it is really not a big deal, but does kill octane and I wanted to start fresh and clean. My truck also spends a lot of time in very dusty conditions offroad, so it was extra nasty. I hope the snorkel will help with the dust ingestion. My guess is most would look bad in there...

I installed an oil catch can on my 4th gen and was surprised on how much oil it “caught”

Most places I read that N/A wouldn’t benefit from it. I guess the proof is in the pudding.

[Argyle Edison]

Originally Posted by themuffinman619

I installed an oil catch can on my 4th gen and was surprised on how much oil it “caught”

Most places I read that N/A wouldn’t benefit from it. I guess the proof is in the pudding.

I have a Moroso catch cam on my supercharged tundra. It’s a must do imho.

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by Argyle Edison

I have a Moroso catch cam on my supercharged tundra. It’s a must do imho.

I already have one on the truck I think you may be able to see it in a few of the pictures in the earlier posts over by the drivers side fender (which may need to move since that is where the intercooler reservoir mounts with the kit) .. It helps for sure.. but it can't get it all. I put it on about 10k miles ago. Truck has 70k on it.

Even with 0 blowby (which is impossible on a modern engine) you will still get circulation via the PCV. It is expected..The main downside of the oil in the intake is carbon buildup in the chamber and effective octane deterioration in high airflow scenarios where the oil gets pushed down into the cylinders and contaminates the fuel.

Attached is a picture of the actual head ports that I took before I cleaned them. The crud was not wet at all.. it was more sticky and stringy than anything else. Especially into the head vs up higher in the intake. Cleaned up pretty easy, but was also a bit glue like. A bit more baked on one side of each port (figured it was related to how the water jackets are configured or how the VVTI works).

[minorobsession]

Can't wait to see the outcome! I'd love more power in our 16 SR5. Great step by step. Thank you!