Ok just an update. The switch and controller arrived today. My Wet Okole heated seat covers are still a few weeks out.

The main controller looks easy enough to hook up (8 wires) and connectors large enough to use standard sta-con's to connect to. The switch has 6 points but to hook it up the right way I think I am going to need the correct connector or wiring harness.

Can anyone with heated seats see where the wiring harness goes from the switch? (i.e. Directly from the console to the seat or from the console to the dash then to the seat?)

The wires coming from the controller are Green, Red with Silver dash, Black with Silver dash, and Brown with Silver dash.

The end goal is to use the Toyota switch and controller to power my Wet Okole heated seats. Depending on how this setup works I may be able to get it to work with other heated seat brands.

As soon as I figure out how to wire up the switch and controller I plan to begin test the controller's output voltage and switch settings.

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I don't know why you bought the seat heaters..... the wet okoles are hot enough by themselves.....

I'll sell mine to someone for $500.

I am confused, what do you mean?

My truck didn't have heated seats. I am getting Wet Okole's seat covers that have heating elements in them. I want to use the Toyota switch to power the Wet Okoles.

wvanstone - I am going to take the liberty and speak for IAMSAM. I believe her thoughts are the same as mine. My experience with the Wet Okoles (I installed a set on my Bronco about six weeks ago) is that they fit nicely, install fairly easily, and look good. However, they do not breathe. After a short drive, I find that my back side is hot and sweaty. In all fairness, I have not had a chance to experience the Okoles in cool or cold weather.

Now, this is just my experience with my Bronco and Wet Okoles covering my leather upholstery.

Cheers
4BYTOY

Ok I just need one more part. I need the f2 connector part number. once I have this I can order these parts and begin testing the controller.

I have found all the other parts, connectors, repair wires and where to buy them at also.

I've been looking into this for a little while as well...

T4R's without seat heaters have part #82223-35050 you need to swap that part for part# 82223-35060

The part number for the piece of the wiring harness that connects the factory switches to the rest of the harness is 82223-35060. Once you install this harness part and the switches, they (the switches) will have back lighting when the headlights are on and the on/off LED on each switch will work properly.

Part #82223-35050 only connects the rear window switch to the main harness.
Part #82223-35060 has 2 added pigtails for the 2 seat heater switches.

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One more note, www.toyotapartszone.com has cheaper prices on the parts listed in the post above.

The OP listed part #87501-60030 for $89.20
www.toyotapartszone it's listed at $72.71

How are the sub controller connected? Is their another harness to connect them or do you need to make up a harness ? Some of my parts are on back order but as soon as they come in I plan to begin testing.

I found the part because I was also looking at adding some aftermarket seat heaters and I wanted to use the stock OEM switches. So I pulled my TE apart and found the little pigtail in mine only connected the window switch.

My little pigtail had the part number label still on it, so I started looking at the wiring diagram and noticed 2 part numbers for the same thing. One of them matched mine, with no switches, so the other part number had to be for the harness that connected to the switches.

For the $20 the part cost I was willing to order it and take a chance. It was exactly what I needed.

I installed it (new pigtail) and the switches and it works perfectly. They light up at night with the headlights, the on off light works.....but I still have not figured out how the seat heaters connect to the rest of the system...I tried a few ideas to get them wired in, but so far no luck.

I didn't see the sub controllers on the wiring diagram, so i never messed with them. My guess is that it will just plug right in someplace or we will need to order another pigtail of some kind to make it work.

I haven't had any time to get back to it since my initial try and when i saw your post, I thought I would try to help out. I just ordered the sub controller so when mine arrives i will take another crack at it.

I have begun testing the switch and sub-controller.

What I can tell so far is the switch and the thermistor work together to balance the voltage applied to the heating element.

It appears that when the thermistor's resistance reaches a value equal to (or a power of) the heating element the sub-controller shuts off. when the heating element cools down the thermistor's resistance changes and turns the sub-controller back on.

Depending on where you set the switch, full voltage (12VDC) is applied to the heating element. When the heating element heats up and changes the resistance of the thermistor the sub-controller is shut off.

So you set the switch position and the thermistor controls when the voltage is applied to the heating element in an on and off manner.

I am not 100% sure of this but this is my first pass. I am still waiting on my Wet Okole's to arrive.

Sorry for the crappy pictures, but it's getting late.

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Ok my Wet Okole seat covers arrived today.

I installed the driver seat cover and want to do some testing with the stock setup from Okole. (i.e. controller temp settings and heat/temp output.

A Quick test on high and the WO unit heated up to 130 Deg F. This unit has 3 settings.

I have the passenger cover setup in my basement and began some testing on it tonight. I had some good results. The resistance values from the WO heating elements are very close to the stock Toyota heater element, this is good from a current (Amps) point of view because the controller will carry the same amount of amps. I plugged the WO heating element into the Toyota sub controller and was running the unit. I currently only have on/off control but once I hook up a thermistor I should be able to get variable control. The real question is how much variation.

I bought 2 different 10K thermistor to start with. I should have them in a few days.

Once I get the Toyota controller working with Wet Okole's I hope to roll it out to other brands of heating elements.

great work so far...looking forward to the final results.

Ok it works!

I need to work out a few minor details but I am able to get the Toyota switch and sub controller to work with the Wet Okole's (WO) heating elements. I will be doing a full write up as soon as I can finish all the loose ends.

The Toyota controller works better then the WO controller. Even tho the WO seat heater has 3 settings on their controller there is very little temperature difference / change between the settings.

Using the Toyota switch I took measurements at Low, Medium and High (appox) settings on the switch.

This data may change but here is what I have so far.

Toyota Switch settings
Low (just clicked on) = 98 - 102 Deg F
Med (mid way) = 116 - 121 Deg F
High (max) = 130 - 136 Deg F

More to come.

Ok, I am done with the Driver side. The system is working but I plan to test the "installed" setup for a few day to make sure everything is working.

The key to the Toyota switch and sub-controller is the thermistor.

Using a 20K Thermistor (Digi-key part # 490-4668-ND) you will get the following values per switch setting.

Switch Setting = Temp

Min = 95 Deg F
25% = 99.5 Deg F
50% = 104 Deg F
75% = 122 Deg F
Max = 145 Deg F

What this means is using this thermistor the sub-controller will turn on and off at these temperatures. (I ended up testing around 10 different thermistors until I found one that worked in the temperature range I wanted)

Thermistor info

Digi-Key - 490-4668-ND (Manufacturer - NTSD1WB203FPB50)

It looks like the Toyota switch, sub-controller (and Digi-key Thermistor) can easily be use with other seat heater. the only issue you need to keep an eye on is how much current your heating elements will draw. The Wet Okole's only draw around 4 amps per seat.

When I have time I will do a full write-up until then if you want to do this project PM me and I can help you out.

One last note, I have confirmed that the TE and SR5 "DO NOT" have the same "base" harness setup and if you plan to do this mod on a SR5 you will need to create your own harness (only a few wires). The Part #82223-35060 will not work as a plug and play but you can use it for the connectors as it is much cheaper then buying the parts alone.

Some info on the thermistor

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