[Okki]

Today my truck became a Facebook celebrity! LOL

Thanks for the kind words Kristina @High Tech!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater



Okki

[shallcallhimtim]

Originally Posted by Okki

INSTALLING THE GOBI RACK
I preassembled all the pieces as much as possible so I knew I had all the required pieces when working on a corner. On the passenger rear I included a ground point for the roof lights. If you include that now, you will not have to undo the bolt and break your seal later.


Next prep the corner you are working on. I used a liberal helping of silicone, but be sure NOT to block the drainage channel.


Repeat the above step for all factory mounting locations. Once completed grab a buddy and lift the rack in place. You can start bolting it down, but you will need some slack to align the front legs and you will want to make sure the rack sits straight on the truck.

For the far front support legs, determine where the support leg will contact the rain gutter and thoroughly clean the rubber cover. This way the double sided tape will take good hold. The downward force of the rack will also aid in keeping it in place.


At this point your roof rack is secured to the vehicle.

Before you install the fairing, affix some clear automotive protection film under where the bottom of the fairing touches the roof. This will prevent damage to the paint later on due to wind pressure and dirt that settles underneath the rubber weather strip (Tip courtesy of Antman).

You will be able to get the fairing to touch the roof for almost the entire length, but the edges will likely stick up a little.


If you are planning on installing some Rigid Industry lights, you may want to consider installing them under the fairing like Ducmonsta did on his vehicle. This reduces the overall height of the rack/light combination and eliminates the rubbing issue of the fairing. It also looks pretty darn awesome.

did you let the silicone cure before putting the rack on?

[Okki]

Originally Posted by shallcallhimtim

did you let the silicone cure before putting the rack on?

Nope; I laid the bead down and then installed the rack. I figured it would push appropriately between the parts and keep things sealed.

So far it has worked well for me; no leaks or problems.

Okki

[shallcallhimtim]

Originally Posted by Okki

Nope; I laid the bead down and then installed the rack. I figured it would push appropriately between the parts and keep things sealed.

So far it has worked well for me; no leaks or problems.

Okki

Thanks man! I just installed my rack and did the silicone and now I have a leak in the driver rear..

do you have any more pics with the lift? truck looks sick man

[Okki]

Thanks! ... Yeah.. I have some more pics and hope to have a full write up posted here by the weekend. Still need to take a new set of height measurements.

Okki

[Okki]

Icon Stage 6 Suspension
Icon Stage 6
1 x ICON-5-8550 03+ 4Runner, 05+ Tacoma, 07+ FJ Cruiser Billet Upper Control Arm Kit $ 1,192.01 Metal Tech
1 x Icon-5-8747 IVD 2010+ Icon remote reservoir front coil overs with IVD coating $ 1,399.00 Metal Tech
1 x ICON-5-2700 07+ FJ Cruiser Rear Spring kit one pair 22x14x6 26lb $ 219.45 Metal Tech
2 x ICON-5-7710 (1) 07-Up FJ Cruiser Rear 2.5" Diameter Piggy Back Reservoir Shock 27x12x6 25 lb $ 796.00 Metal Tech
1 x ICON-5-4000 07-Up FJ Cruiser Billet Aluminum Rear Trailing Arm Kit 30x8x4 30lb $ 693.26 Metal Tech
1 x ICON-5-4100 07-Up FJ Cruiser Billet Aluminum Upper Link Arm Kit 12x13x8 20lb $ 398.00 Metal Tech
1 x ICON-5-4200 07-Up FJ Cruiser Rear Adjustable Track Bar 4x4x40 12lb $ 248.38 Metal Tech
Total $ 5040.86 (Regular retail)

Icon Stage 6 Installation & Body Mount chop
ICON Stage 6 Installation $ 1254.45 High Tech Auto and Truck
Body Mount Chop $ 160.80 High Tech Auto and Truck
Total $ 1460.54 (Regular retail)

WHY:
The reason for my upgrade from the factory XREAS suspension to the ICON stage 6 is pretty straight forward. With the additional weight I’m planning on adding (full skids, front bumper, winch, dual battery, rear bumper w/ tire carrier), the stock suspension would simply not keep the truck handling in a safe manner and would lose some ground clearance due to spring compression.

WHAT:
I’m a big believer in doing things right the first time. After a good bit of time saving up I ordered my Icon Stage 6 from Metal Tech. I had talked to Brandon at the 2012 FJ Summit and when they offered a good discount, it was a great time to pull the trigger.

I selected to go with the full Stage 6 kit, as put together by Icon. It does everything I need it to do at this point and allows me to do more if I ever decide to push my truck’s capabilities.




INSTALLATION:
Since we were taking a trip towards the East coast, I contacted @Ducmonsta at High Tech Auto and Truck and was able to coordinate my travel schedule with an appointment to get everything installed. Since they were putting my truck on a lift to give it a lift, I also asked them to perform a body mount chop on it. While I’m still running the 265/70/17 tires it’s not needed, but once these wear out I’ll likely upsize and it’s nice to have the chop already done by a qualified shop.

So while I can’t tell you anything DIY installation specific, the crew at High Tech Auto and Truck did a great job. Bobby coordinating everything and getting me both the shop tour and loaner vehicle and Scott doing an amazing job on my truck.

Body Mount Chop
Passenger Side:






Driver Side:

[Okki]

Front Suspension:
Passenger Side:




Scott did a great job adjusting the Icon mounts for the reservoir so it creates more clearance with the washer bottle and positions the reservoir upright for a more pleasing look.


Driver Side:




Rear Suspension:
Passenger Side:


The picture below also shows the shin guards that I ordered for the rear. Ideally I would have painted them black, but since everything got shipped directly to High Tech, that didn’t happen. Since it requires the bolt that holds the shock to be removed and the shock disconnected to take them off, I’ll likely paint them at some point but I haven’t felt like masking everything off so far and not having any use of the vehicle until two coats of paint are dry.


Driver Side:




And a closeup of the shin guard from below.

[Okki]

THE MEASUREMENTS:
Variables:
Full tank of gas.
Tire Pressure: 42psi
Vehicle Weight: No additional weight in truck.

Passenger side:
Front: 22.5” (+3)
Rear: 24.5” (+3)
Top Roof Lights: 79” (+3)

Driver side:
Front: 21.5” (+2.25)
Rear: 24.5” (+3.25)
Top High-Lift: 80.5”



I was a bit in a hurry measuring the driver side so I’m remeasuring the driver side here shortly since the measurements seem a bit off. The interesting thing is that the coils are adjusted the same, so it may be that the extra weight on that corner of the vehicle (mainly the battery) is causing the difference.

Coil Measurements:
The passenger front: 1.4375


The driver front: 1.4375


Alignment data:


Okki

[Alex T4R]

Okki, where you measure from and too that you are getting 22.5" on passenger side from and about the same on drivers?
Thanks!

[Socalrugger]

Originally Posted by Okki

THE MEASUREMENTS:
Variables:
Full tank of gas.
Tire Pressure: 42psi
Vehicle Weight: No additional weight in truck.

Passenger side:
Front: 22.5” (+3)
Rear: 24.5” (+3)
Top Roof Lights: 79” (+3)

Driver side:
Front: 21.5” (+2.25)
Rear: 24.5” (+3.25)
Top High-Lift: 80.5”



I was a bit in a hurry measuring the driver side so I’m remeasuring the driver side here shortly since the measurements seem a bit off. The interesting thing is that the coils are adjusted the same, so it may be that the extra weight on that corner of the vehicle (mainly the battery) is causing the difference.

Coil Measurements:
The passenger front: 1.4375


The driver front: 1.4375


Alignment data:


Okki

Okki-- what are your initial impressions of stage 6?

[Canazes9]

Originally Posted by Okki

THE MEASUREMENTS:
Variables:
Full tank of gas.
Tire Pressure: 42psi
Vehicle Weight: No additional weight in truck.

Passenger side:
Front: 22.5” (+3)
Rear: 24.5” (+3)
Top Roof Lights: 79” (+3)

Driver side:
Front: 21.5” (+2.25)
Rear: 24.5” (+3.25)
Top High-Lift: 80.5”



I was a bit in a hurry measuring the driver side so I’m remeasuring the driver side here shortly since the measurements seem a bit off. The interesting thing is that the coils are adjusted the same, so it may be that the extra weight on that corner of the vehicle (mainly the battery) is causing the difference.

Coil Measurements:
The passenger front: 1.4375


The driver front: 1.4375


Alignment data:


Okki

Toyota Tacoma's driver side front coil springs are about 1/4" taller than passenger side to compensate for the "Taco Lean" that comes from having the battery on that side. If you replace the coil springs w/ aftermarket springs like the Eibach models I put on my '12 Tacoma you have to get a 1/4" trim spacer for the drivers side to keep it level.

I do NOT know for a fact that is the case w/ the 5th gen 4Runners, but it seems like it makes sense. In any case the part is listed with the 5th gen 4runners on Toytec's site:

Front Top Plate Spacer (One - 1/4")

With coil overs, obviously, you don't need a spacer. Adjust the coil over a little more...

David

[Icufltrn]

How about some pix of the truck all finished.

[Okki]

Originally Posted by Alex T4R

Okki, where you measure from and too that you are getting 22.5" on passenger side from and about the same on drivers?
Thanks!

Hi Alex,

I'm following the process as I've outlined here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...ml#post1335626

I cross-tape the rims from the lugs and use a plumb-line to determine the straight up line to the fender. I then use from the center of the cross-tape to the bottom of the fender.

Okki

[Okki]

Originally Posted by Canazes9

Toyota Tacoma's driver side front coil springs are about 1/4" taller than passenger side to compensate for the "Taco Lean" that comes from having the battery on that side. If you replace the coil springs w/ aftermarket springs like the Eibach models I put on my '12 Tacoma you have to get a 1/4" trim spacer for the drivers side to keep it level.

I do NOT know for a fact that is the case w/ the 5th gen 4Runners, but it seems like it makes sense. In any case the part is listed with the 5th gen 4runners on Toytec's site:

Front Top Plate Spacer (One - 1/4")

With coil overs, obviously, you don't need a spacer. Adjust the coil over a little more...

David

That would be an interesting question for @Ducmonsta to answer next time Scott has the suspension off a stock 4Runner. Which reminds me... Bobby, Did Scott ever register a username?

Originally Posted by Icufltrn

How about some pix of the truck all finished.

Hahahahaha you'll have to be patient for a coupe more years then, because my truck is far from done! LOL. But since it looks like a pig at the moment, I'll snap some pics later today and post them here.

Originally Posted by Socalrugger

Okki-- what are your initial impressions of stage 6?

So keep in mind this is comparing against the XREAS suspension of a Limited. I've been very happy with the XREAS and the main reason I switched is for the coming weight in bumpers, skids, battery, etc.

With the weight not yet having been added, there is a little bit of bounce when you get to a full stop (rocking back and forth). I knew this would be the case and I expect it to be gone once my Shrockworks skids are delivered and I install those.

That said, I'm digging it. Especially going over crappy surface at speed there is a noticeable difference where the stage 6 just handles it way nicer. Through corners the truck feels solid and stays pretty flat, but that does not feel very different from the XREAS.

Last but not least, the lifted stance just looks awesome and gives me some more room over the trails.

So it was a hefty chunk of change.. but I'm very happy with things and consider it money well spent.

Okki

[Alex T4R]

Originally Posted by Okki

Hi Alex,

I'm following the process as I've outlined here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...ml#post1335626

I cross-tape the rims from the lugs and use a plumb-line to determine the straight up line to the fender. I then use from the center of the cross-tape to the bottom of the fender.

Okki

Hey Okki! Thanks, i just wanted to double check because i measured from ground to the fender and got 39" and when i saw you only had 24.5". I was wondering why such a difference but now i know.