This mod was prompted by some investigating I was trying as part of using the key fob to roll down all the windows. (See this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...threadid=40797.)

One thing that is annoying with the T4R is that the power windows don't operate after the ignition is off and the 45 second timer has elapsed or a door has been opened.

I was able to turn the power windows to be constantly on by removing a relay. Quite simple actually.

Sorry, no new pics but follow the directions in the constant 12V power outlet thread (see here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...threadid=11038) to get to the relays on the back of the inside fuse box. Remove the POWER relay (which is the next one forward.) Use a short wire to jumper the connector the same as was done for the 12V outlets relay.

Now an additional important step. After you have everything back together you need to reinitialize the drivers window and back window before this change will take effect. Now you're done.

Enjoy.

Excellent! I am inspired. I want to go in and have the windows power via the ACC position on the ignition key. I would like your mod but leaving the windows cracked makes it too easy for a criminal. Although I guess most criminals wouldn't even think to use a coat hangar on the window switch, they'd just go for the unlock button which I think 'fights' unlocking after the security turns on. I'll have to play with it

I also want one full time outlet in addition to my switched 12v outlet. The photos and instructions you provided are going to be a huge help!

CJ3Flyr,

I have the same concerns as you do too. But I think the 4Runner is a bit safer from the coat hanger attack, since the window switches are buried under the handle.

My friend one day on the way back from snowboarding (so it was cold and no reason to open the window) and says "Hey, out of curiousity, where are the window switches for the back windows? They don't put them in the back anymore?" I told him, it has them, they're not in the most convenient location under the handle. He says, "Ahh, I see. Thought it was some obscure reason to omit them from the back... cause of kids or something."

Very true... We've all seen and read the posts complaining about the window switches. Maybe Toyota was one step ahead of Kmvreter; they knew he'd come along

I think I may give it a go this weekend.

The other thing I'd love is for the radio to play until a door is opened or the factory supplied power delay has expired. (The one that currently powers the windows.)

I don't leave the windows open when I'm not around. What I can now do is turn the truck off and open or close the windows as needed without cycling the IGN ON. For instance, on a hot day on my way to the truck I hit the rear window button on the key fob to roll that down first. Then when I open the driver's door I can open some more windows with the switches before I even get in the hot truck. Also, if I'm dropping off a passenger (who opens a door and breaks the 45 second timer) I don't have to leave the truck turned on to open or close the windows. If I'm waiting in the truck I can turn the truck off and then set the windows depending on the temperature (it's usually not hot enough up here to keep the air on.)

This relay mod just gives me some options. I don't think I'll try the "roll all windows down" mod that inspired this in the first place.

I looked into this with the same concerns and found that if you use the AC 115V INV Relay to control the windows it will operate with the ignition switch in the ACC position. If you don't have the 115V option put a jumper across pins 1 & 2 in the AC 115V INV Relay position in the engine compartment. Then bend pin 1 up on the Power Relay (window control) located on the Driver Side J/B lower finish panel and connect a wire from pin 1 to Pin 41 (blue wire) in the 1C4 connector located in the drivers side kick panel. This wire comes from the AC 115V INV Relay. If you have the AC 115V option the jumper wire in the relay block is not needed. I haven't installed this yet and am assuming that the wiring for the AC 115V option is in all models. Have I overlooked anything that causes a problem or makes this impractical?

Good way to do it in theory. Who wants to try it?

I gave this some more thought and there may be a problem if you have the 115V option. I'm not sure there is enough current to operate both the 115V and Power relay for the windows with them in series. In this case you need to splice in to the J20 connector located behind the radio (pin H-yellow wire with red stripe) with a blue T-top splice connector instead of splicing the wire into the 1C4 connector. If you don't have the 115V option there should not be a problem.

I made this mod this weekend and my first comment is that it only works on the four main windows, not the sunroof or rear window. Still figuring out if I plan to keep this mod, but it's been helpful a few times.

bump, more people need to know about this (also moved to 4th gen section)

I did it and love, the only thing is the little "Auto" on the drive's switch stays on all the time. It is by no means bright so no big deal for me.

Thanks.