Custom install of a pair of kicker 10's. Advice?

Got a pair of 4 ohm kicker 10's off a friend who has used them for less than 6 months. What I plan too do is make individual boxes for them on either side of my truck bed, utilizing the tool compartments. Like this:


First question: think I can just cut the front face from the box it came with in half? Then use new wood for the other sides? Or would that not be worth it?

2nd: what is a good stealth amp setup for this? I don't see them in that first picture but that is a clean look.

The unit I got looks identical too this:

Depending on the amp's size, you could place it under the driver or passenger seat. A bunch of guys, including myself, have done that.

If I understand you, I'm not sure of the benefit of "cutting off the face" of the box with sub versus building a new box....unless there's something I'm missing....
Also, how well you're able to "hide" the subs along the side of the trunk will depend on the depth of the subs.

Not sure how much power those subs can handle, or their other specs, but if you can't fit this amp anywhere to be stealth....you're doing something wrong

Massive Audio B2 - Mono Block Digital » Massive Audio

snowbrdr033 said:

If I understand you, I'm not sure of the benefit of "cutting off the face" of the box with sub versus building a new..
Also, how well you're able to "hide" the subs along the side of the trunk will depend on the depth of the subs.

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You misunderstood. I was thinking about cutting the extra long face panel of this box, in half. Then building the rest of the box around it. Only reason is that is looks like it is made too be the most ideal thing too mount the subs too ultimately.. Even if it means destroying the factory box.

Offroader5 said:

Not sure how much power those subs can handle, or their other specs, but if you can't fit this amp anywhere to be stealth....you're doing something wrong

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Offroader I am not sure about this "massive audio" but I am interested? Also. Since the subs will be seperate i assume I will need two 300 watt amps? Because the specs are as followed:
Maximum watts is 300 per kicker. It has a mounting depth of 5-1/8"

Vancouver93SR5-BLK said:

Offroader I am not sure about this "massive audio" but I am interested? Also. Since the subs will be seperate i assume I will need two 300 watt amps? Because the specs are as followed:
Maximum watts is 300 per kicker. It has a mounting depth of 5-1/8"

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Massive Audio is fine. Sounds like a cheap name, but they make decent stuff.

The "Nano Bit" amps are their new and smallest amp line. You'd be just as happy with the regular "Nano" amps, they just take up a tiny bit more room. You'll find much better pricing for the "Nano" amps than you will the "Nano Bit" line just because they are the new thing.

Which ever line you run, you could use ONE mono amp for both subs. If the subs are 4 ohm, wired together in parallel would net 2 ohms and you'd get about 400+ watts out of the B2 or N2 & around 700 if you went with the N3.

That 300 watt rating is the MAX though...so 200 per sub would be just about right. The RMS rating is more important than knowing the MAX. I don't know enough about Kicker to say whether they rate their subs correctly or how well they can take power above their RMS rating (if at all).

The Alpine 8's I run are rated RMS at 300 watts and peak at 900 but I run 900+ to 2 of them @ 1 ohm mono. That feeds each with about 450, and they take it and ask for more. Much of a subs power handling though can be attributed to the enclosure size & type.

Offroader5 said:

Massive Audio is fine. Sounds like a cheap name, but they make decent stuff.

Which ever line you run, you could use ONE mono amp for both subs. If the subs are 4 ohm, wired together in parallel would net 2 ohms and you'd get about 400+ watts out of the B2 or N2 & around 700 if you went with the N3.

That 300 watt rating is the MAX though...so 200 per sub would be just about right. The RMS rating is more important than knowing the MAX. I don't know enough about Kicker to say whether they rate their subs correctly or how well they can take power above their RMS rating (if at all).

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Thanks for the input! Sounds like massive might be a perfect compliment toot kickers. As from what I know about kicker is that they are relatively small name but have innovative designs and materials. Also, I know a few people with them and all have said they are very tough for the price.
The missing Rms specs are: 150rms. It was there, I just don't know too much about audio equipment. Here is a link too the sub on crutch tho:Kicker 10C104 10" 4-Ohm Component Subwoofer

I have a question about what you said about running one amp though: if I break up the stock box and make two individual boxes for these (like the first picture) would I still be able too run off one amp? They wouldn't be in parallel anymore, right? Anyways I am totally ok with running two I just want as good as it can. Like you said it's how it is set up that matters the most

Vancouver93SR5-BLK said:

The missing Rms specs are: 150rms. It was there, I just don't know too much about audio equipment. Here is a link too the sub on crutch tho:Kicker 10C104 10" 4-Ohm Component Subwoofer

I have a question about what you said about running one amp though: if I break up the stock box and make two individual boxes for these (like the first picture) would I still be able too run off one amp? They wouldn't be in parallel anymore, right? Anyways I am totally ok with running two I just want as good as it can. Like you said it's how it is set up that matters the most

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With that RMS, the 400 watts to both should work great. Doesn't matter that the subs are broke into two separate boxes. Only difference is that the wires connecting the subs together will be longer since they have to go from one side of the cargo area to the other.

When you wire up two subs in parallel, you will connect the positive & negative from the amp to one sub and then connect the positive of the first sub to the positive on the second sub and same goes for the negatives. Just like this:

Offroader5 said:

With that RMS, the 400 watts to both should work great. Doesn't matter that the subs are broke into two separate boxes. Only difference is that the wires connecting the subs together will be longer since they have to go from one side of the cargo area to the other.

When you wire up two subs in parallel, you will connect the positive & negative from the amp to one sub and then connect the positive of the first sub to the positive on the second sub and same goes for the negatives. Just like this:

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Thanks for the break down of that setup offroader. I'm curious tho what are the advantages and disadvantages of wiring one amp or two small. Because those massive audio amps that were mentioned before are extremely small.
Also, would wiring it in parallel be different if the amp was 4 channel?
Thanks again for the input everyone , looking too get more done this weekend so pics are a comin soon

Vancouver93SR5-BLK said:

Thanks for the break down of that setup offroader. I'm curious tho what are the advantages and disadvantages of wiring one amp or two small. Because those massive audio amps that were mentioned before are extremely small.
Also, would wiring it in parallel be different if the amp was 4 channel?
Thanks again for the input everyone , looking too get more done this weekend so pics are a comin soon

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An "ohm" is the resistance of the sub coil, and 2 ohms is half the resistance of 4 ohms...which is why many amplifiers will net more power in 2 ohms than they will in 4...they have less resistance, so they produce additional power.The downside to cutting the resistance is heat. The amp may get warmer since it's supplying more power.

If one amp is rated at 200 watts @ 4 ohms & 400 watts @ 2 ohms...by wiring up the two subs in parallel, you would net about 200 watts to each (400 watts supplied by amp in 2 ohms divided by two subs).

To get the same power to each sub using two amps (one per sub), you'd need two of those same amps since they only provide 200 watts to a 4 ohm load. You'd be getting the same 400 watts to the pair of subs, but you spent twice as much on amps. The only benefits are that you are running the amps at a more stable ohm load (4 vs. 2), and the THD (distortion) is technically lower. As long as you get a quality amp (especially if it's a class D--more efficient), there's no need to worry about heat at 2 ohms and the amp should be more than stable at that load. Those Massive amps are stable to 1 ohm I believe. In terms of distortion, whether it's .01% or .10% total harmonic distortion...it's inaudible (more so with a sub channel).

The downside on two amps is now you have an additional power, ground, remote, and signal cable to run to the second amp and, even though they are tiny...more room for the second one. The signal cable will require a Y connector to split the mono sub channel from your headunit into two connections. Plus, you've just paid for two of them when you really didn't need to.

Offroader5 said:

To get the same power to each sub using two amps (one per sub), you'd need two of those same amps since they only provide 200 watts to a 4 ohm load. You'd be getting the same 400 watts to the pair of subs, but you spent twice as much on amps. The only benefits are that you are running the amps at a more stable ohm load (4 vs. 2), and the THD (distortion) is technically lower. As long as you get a quality amp (especially if it's a class D--more efficient), there's no need to worry about heat at 2 ohms and the amp should be more than stable at that load. Those Massive amps are stable to 1 ohm I believe. In terms of distortion, whether it's .01% or .10% total harmonic distortion...it's inaudible (more so with a sub channel).

The downside on two amps is now you have an additional power, ground, remote, and signal cable to run to the second amp and, even though they are tiny...more room for the second one. The signal cable will require a Y connector to split the mono sub channel from your headunit into two connections. Plus, you've just paid for two of them when you really didn't need to.

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Thanks offroader. I completely understand now and totally see that I should just run one amp too the 2 subs. I have avert thing together and I am going too get started this weekend with building one box then the other. Here is a rough sketch I drew out after a few beers of what I think it should look like: Anyone think I should change or modify this design? Also, if anyone has suggestions too turn this into a ported installation. That would be great! As I am interested in a ported design...but do not know enough about how too calculate the dimensions needed.
Thanks in advance as any advice would be appreciated

Here's a link to a bunch of enclosure design calculators:
Enclosure Calculators | DB DYNAMIX AUDIO

The ports in the above calculators are all slot vents in lieu of round tube, but at least these will give you an idea of box size specifically for your woofer. Once you have all the numbers input and it's done the calculating, it's easy enough to take the "port area" number it gives you and convert it into what a round port would be.

Take your time with it though, it takes a bit of number tinkering to get the "optimum" enclosure. The key is to change the values in the white boxes so that the "recommended tuning" & "net volume" match as closely as possible to the unchanging "recommended alignment" numbers.

There's also this one:
LinearTeam

A bit less confusing looking and it has plotting so you can see what happens when you change values.

With both of these (or any other enclosure calculator) you will need the T/S (thiele/small) parameters for the sub. These are the specs that should be in the manual from the manufacturer. Things like FS, VAS, QTS, QES, QMS, SD etc... These numbers get plugged in to these calculators so they know the electrical/mechanical specs for the driver.

Offroader5 said:

The ports in the above calculators are all slot vents in should be in the manual from the manufacturer. Things like FS, VAS, QTS, QES, QMS, SD etc... These numbers get plugged in to these calculators so they know the electrical/mechanical specs for the driver.

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Yikes I don't have original manufacturer manuals. I bought these off a friend. I am going to google it and see if I can find some of these for my kickers.
So basically I run the numbers then just apply them too a port on a box like the one I sketched out? Or should I look at a different design?

Your overall design "shape" can still work, you just may need to adjust the dimensions to fit what the sub needs. The calculators are meant not only to tell you the specifics about what to make the port, but also what kind of internal air volume the enclosure should have. Once you know what volume that sub needs, you can use a bit of trial and error with different dimensions while keeping the shape of the final box you want.

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm wondering if you ever finished designing both boxes? I'm interested in going with a similar design.