LEO98

Took my 4Runner in to a local dealer here for a Toyota Quality Inspection. They said there was a recall on a "dampener" for the fuel line, something like that. I'll find out for sure when I pick it up.

Any one know of this?

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2007 4Runner SR5 4WD, V6, White - WeatherTech All-Weather Floor Mats, 265/65/17 GoodYear Wrangler Silent Armor.

Rollinthundr

I would like to put my current problems out there in case anyone can help me get my 4Runner back to well-functioning condition.


PROBLEM 1:

I have had my catalytic convertors replaced per the TSB, back last July 2004. Well, they fixed the sulfur smell.

2 days ago, after a check engine light, my dealer told me one of those catalytic convertors needed replacement.

Could the fix from Toyota be a shady convertor?

PROBLEM 2:

In extreme cold temps (0-16F) I was cheerfully driving along a highway, and all of a sudden, there is no power. the car never stalled, but it acted just like there was water in the gas. After about 15 minutes, the car goes back to normal.

Well, many bottles of dry gas later, and 3 more dangerous episodes of stalling, I have been told that Toyota recommends adding dry gas every 3 fill-ups in the winter. They say the car has a fine mesh Fuel Filter which has a tendancy to crystallize.

Does this sound reasonable?


PROBLEM 3:

Every so often, my radio volume becomes inoperable, at least until I turn the car off, then on again. The dealer has replaced the radio, the volume control, but does anyone know exactly what this is?

PROBLEM 4:

I have the seat issues too, they have replaced the seat frame, but it still cracks when I first acccellerate. I think the crack comes from somewhere on the seat tracks, but it could be from the lumbar.

hre814

the headliner rattle tsb: can someone tell me where the rattle for this one is usually located? I have one just above the drivers head somewhere between the end of the drivers window and the middle part in between windows. thanks!

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------ Herman ---------

2004 V8 Limited (Titanium)
265/70/17 BFG AT KOs
HannaQuality Sliders
Cornfed Lift (Spacers; 3" F / 2" R)

yabedude

Have them change the amp in the rear right panel. This worked for me.

saaggie

I had the same noise. I took out the screws inside caps where the drivers OS above head handle would be and wrapped them with teflon tape and tighten down. Its gone.

Hope this helps.

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SAT
93 Sport V8 4x4
265/70/17 YOKO Geolander A/TS
Voliant Cold Air Intake
Magnaflow Muffler

Avian

I am also having problems with the volume being inoperable with no sound on my 2003. Have had this almost from the beginning as well as intermittent navi problems. Dealer unable to replicate problem since when I have brought it in the sound was working again. Always seemed to occur after dealer hours or when I was out of the area. Yesterday I was in the vicinity of my local dealer when the sound stopped and all volume controls were inoperable so I was able to bring it in to show them what happens. Before the sound went out my navi was unresponsive but after a few tries I was able to use it again. Didn't have time to leave 4runner yesterday so I am bringing it in today. My extended warranty is close to expiration so I am hoping that they can figure something out. I think there must be a short or the unit in my vehicle is defective.

Does anyone know if there are problems with the navi/stereo combo? Haven't seen any TSBs about this.

yabedude

If you have an OEM amp in the right rear quarter panel, then that may be the source of your problem with the intermittent sound/controls.

Check out Radio Stopped working.
and my post dated 03-09-2004.

In summary, they change the original amp and the problem returned. They changed the amp to another model (don't ask specifics as I don't have any), and the problem stopped. Also know that I installed an aftermarket HU about a year later so can only comment for that time period.

kraftwerkauto

what was the proble with your rear gate latch not working ? mine trys to latch but won't, any help with this PLEASE ??

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I know all about the jeep thing , That's Why I Drive A Toyota

2004 4Runner 9/3/08 Stratosphere Mica - Limited 4x4 V8 - Tan Leather - XREAS - FJ Cruiser Steel Wheels - Moon Roof - Roof Rack - Rear Spoiler - Double Ceck Cargo - Driver Side Assist Handle - Michelin Cross Terrians - Aluminum Skid Plate - Tonneau Cover - Side Curtain Air Bags - JBL Stereo *
My first Toyota was a 1973 Hilux pick up that I bought in 1981 for $100.00

blueleezard

All: I was just going through some older postings and the one about the rear door not latching caught my eye. The rear door latch on the used 2003 V8 Sport purchased before Xmas [the one that had the driveshaft successfully replaced] began to do some weird things in January, apparently not weather dependent -- it would latch properly one time and not latch at all the next -- just hanging loose and "thunking" in position with no latching whatsoever. Dangerous and a big problem. On a few occasions while driving, the latched door decided to un-latch unexpectedly, difficult to know about while underway except the "door open" symbol would light up and, if this happened at night, it was possible to see the dome lights come on. But coming to a stop would push the door into the closed position so the "door open" and dome lights would go out again, but I could hear the latching motor whirring away as it tried unsuccessfully to pull the door completely shut. Pulling away from a light or stop sign would reverse the process -- the lights would come back on and the latch motor would be silent. Problem turned out to be muck and road grime inside the bottom of the door that slowly accumulated through the rear drain hole [makes me wonder if there is suction back up through the drain hole that would pull crap in even though it's designed to drain out -- unintended negative pressure maybe on account of seal misalignment I can't see, or perhaps it's a "design feature" that shouldn't be there -- if there is negative pressure wouldn't that also suck carbon monoxide from the exhaust into the vehicle??]. The accumulated muck had been built up with the previous owner having driven over muddy / dusty roads a lot [I drive exclusively on pavement except for snow / ice in Winter]. The dealer cleaned all out all the muck properly and completely, 100%, and the "no latch" problem has never returned. Best wishes to all / Cheers / Blueleezard

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(all vehicles listed here were / are 4WD except the Swede) [1] 1978 blue 4-sp FJ45 1-ton, new, 4-ton winch, bullet proof, perfect vertical mudder, my 1st love [gone but never forgotten]; [2] 1982 black Trekker 5-sp, used, solid axle, leaky back window, white spokes, lots of fun [sold]; [3] 1986 black T4R SR5 5-sp, used, IFS at last, no air [just not cool], totally loved it [sold]; [4] 1990 red T4R SR5 5-sp, new, air at last, 32" Michelins, air susp, synchro cones replaced 4x, also rear diff pinion gear, but never ever really fixed [sold]; [5] 1993 white Celica 5-sp AllTrac, pale blue leather [really weird -- I mean, what kind of animal was that?], but performance extraordinaire [sold]; [6] 1996 white T4R Ltd new, perfect, full load, very cool, head on totaled [100% other guy's fault -- what is "wit-nit"???] [sold]; [7] 1999 mica green T4R SR5 auto, new, bucket of bolts [transfer case death], good otherwise [sold]; [8] 2003 black T4R V8 Sport, new, perfect, lotsa miles [sold]; [9] mid-life crisis -- spectacular affair with red-hot Volvo 1998 high-pressure turbo T5 auto, it was sweaty, passionate and great, once in a lifetime, but really and truly, dear, I have repented, I'm better now, and I'm back home for good; [10] today: 2003 spotless mica grey metallic T4R V8 Sport, used, perfect, spectacular, better than best, finally in love all over again, this time forever, yassir youbetcha! New rear drive-shaft installed under warranty 08.02.08 -- part number 37110-6A480 -- OK so far [the dreaded 'clunk' is no longer (touch wood)].

yabedude

blueleezard ...


You have to show me where the collection of mud was cause I offroad in mud more than not, and I haven't had that issue at all.

blueleezard

Hey Yabadude: no pics are necessary ... just look along the middle of the bottom edge of your lift-up rear door and you'll find a drain hole. When the problem I described started happening, that little hole was jam-packed with thick, hardened grime / mud / dirt that hadn't been cleaned out before I bought the vehicle. Kind of like dried-out clay. You could pick out bits of that crap with an ice-pick but that would also shove more inside the door. The lower edge of the rear door that mates with the seal was also pretty dirty. The seal was [and still is] doing its job just fine from what I can tell, but you could see that a lot of muck and whatnot had regularly been flung up on the back of the vehicle just by looking at the outside of the seal strip. The dealership clean that was done just before I purchased was excellent, first-rate I'd say, but they didn't bother to ream out that little drain hole. And I never noticed or thought to look when I visited the shop and they were doing the "eager new owner detail". Anyway, after the problem started happening in January, the "fix" was opening the access panel in the door [where you can get at the latch motor] and really cleaning that sucker out [including the drain hole], drying it completely, then replacing the access panel. Bingo. No latch motor problems thereafter. I see you're from British Columbia. Given your request for pics, I thought you might be from Missouri! You know -- "The Show Me State"! But don't worry -- from what I've just described, you can't go wrong.

Cheers / Blueleezard

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(all vehicles listed here were / are 4WD except the Swede) [1] 1978 blue 4-sp FJ45 1-ton, new, 4-ton winch, bullet proof, perfect vertical mudder, my 1st love [gone but never forgotten]; [2] 1982 black Trekker 5-sp, used, solid axle, leaky back window, white spokes, lots of fun [sold]; [3] 1986 black T4R SR5 5-sp, used, IFS at last, no air [just not cool], totally loved it [sold]; [4] 1990 red T4R SR5 5-sp, new, air at last, 32" Michelins, air susp, synchro cones replaced 4x, also rear diff pinion gear, but never ever really fixed [sold]; [5] 1993 white Celica 5-sp AllTrac, pale blue leather [really weird -- I mean, what kind of animal was that?], but performance extraordinaire [sold]; [6] 1996 white T4R Ltd new, perfect, full load, very cool, head on totaled [100% other guy's fault -- what is "wit-nit"???] [sold]; [7] 1999 mica green T4R SR5 auto, new, bucket of bolts [transfer case death], good otherwise [sold]; [8] 2003 black T4R V8 Sport, new, perfect, lotsa miles [sold]; [9] mid-life crisis -- spectacular affair with red-hot Volvo 1998 high-pressure turbo T5 auto, it was sweaty, passionate and great, once in a lifetime, but really and truly, dear, I have repented, I'm better now, and I'm back home for good; [10] today: 2003 spotless mica grey metallic T4R V8 Sport, used, perfect, spectacular, better than best, finally in love all over again, this time forever, yassir youbetcha! New rear drive-shaft installed under warranty 08.02.08 -- part number 37110-6A480 -- OK so far [the dreaded 'clunk' is no longer (touch wood)].