I am very interested. Having built and run turbo charged cars with stand alone ECU's, Anti-Lag, air-air and air-fluid intercoolers...........all in 100+ degree California summers I may also be able to help with development. That said these guys have been successful with their other superchargers. I would actually suggest one person take point for us all on the board and that we not bug them.

The last thing we want to do is give them the impression that we are a difficult bunch to deal with. If they feel they will burn a lot of time support our chargers because we seem difficult they could drop the whole thing. I know cause I have been on another forum where just something happened.
Regarding the warm weather folk, the biggest mistake I have seen is where people do not listen to their knock sensors (i.e. watch the light or read the ECU code), get greedy and turn up the boost. In my rally car I could run 25psi during the winter. Before I got my stand alone ECU , when the temps got above about 85 degrees I backed down to 22psi, if it was over 100 I backed down to 17psi. Each PSI was worth about 10HP and lots of torque and yes is sucked to loose the power (25psi-17psi= ~80HP). But while other around me were blowing up motors with less than 30k miles on them mine went 192k miles without ever having the head off or the bottom end out. Once I got my stand alone ECU I simply told it to add fuel, pul timing and if needed pull boost if it heard knock. This worked great because I could just drive the car. I was conservative with my settings and never had an issue. Sometimes though, on very hot days, I would not get more than 15psi, price I paid for bad CA gas and summer weather.
As for intercoolers the best street setup I have seen is one that used fluid (not water) and is hooked into the A/C system. It uses the A/C system to cool the fluid to REALLY cool temps, then pumps that fluid into the intercooler where it REALLY chills the intake charge. The up side here is that it provides the most cooling to the intake charge possible (like using icewater, but it stays cool as long as your cars A/C works) and it permits very short intake plumbing, especially vs. air-air setups. The down side is you loose about 10hp turn the a/c compressor at low speeds (more than made up for with the cool intake charge). At high speed and large throttle openings the ECU shuts off the a/c compressor on al new cars automatically, so that 10HP loss vanishes. The another down side is you need to tap into the a/c lines (pretty easy) and you need a fluid tank to be mounted somewhere. The last downside I see is that someone here or at URD would need to make their own plumbing for the air intakes.