removal to get to door speakers!

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oksailor

New member
I have been gently trying to get to my door speakers for the past couple of days. Every time I try to take them off i feel like i am getting ready to break something.

Can anyone give me any pointers to get my doors off so I can put my new Focals in the doors?.......

If only I had a reputable install shop close to Annapolis, MD
 
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Moved it to the Audio and Electronics sub-forum. Hopefully, a member will have the link handy.
 
Clemson

Notice that you are an audiophile. I put 6.5 Focal components in the front doors. I recently took out my old set of Focal components out of my old 4Runner. Should I put them in the rear doors or would that be too many components?

Also trying to decide if I should move my amp to the new 4Runner or not.

Any input?
 
I probably wouldn't do comps in the back. Where would you put the tweeter?

I think a good two way would be fine.

Take the amp for sure. Don't leave it in the '98 4runner.
 
Not sure about a 2008 4Runner but $10 will get you a Crutchfield "Mastersheet" that details receiver mounting (console/dash disassembly) and front and rear speaker mounting (door panel disassembly).

Was a great help on my receiver and speaker install with my '01 SR5 4Runner. It had all the little tricks for disassembling the console, doors, panel fasteners etc.

Crutchfield Mastersheet
 
There is a spot in the rear pillars by the back hatch for tweeters. It is a good spot but kind of a distance from the midrange.

Just a bit frustrating that I am sitting on 3 pairs of bajillion$$$ components (2 Focal, 1 MB quart) that I can't really use.

Was also thinking about upgrading the Alpine V12 to the new Eclipse 100x4 amp
 
oksailor said:
There is a spot in the rear pillars by the back hatch for tweeters. It is a good spot but kind of a distance from the midrange.

Just a bit frustrating that I am sitting on 3 pairs of bajillion$$$ components (2 Focal, 1 MB quart) that I can't really use.

Was also thinking about upgrading the Alpine V12 to the new Eclipse 100x4 amp
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Pry up the top part of the armrest(it's held on by clips) with a screwdriver and remove the giant phillips head screw. Remove the curved piece of plastic inside the door handle and remove the phillips head screw. On the front doors there is a push pin at the forward top position(that round black thing). Pry that out carefully.Lower the window and carefully pry out the door panel releasing each clip. There is one more clip in the center of the panel so once you have the panel loose all the way around just reach under or from the side and support the panel as you pull it out. When it is all free lift the panel up off the door. You will see two cables at the top that go to the the door handle and lock. Release the plastic part of the cable from it's clip(both cables) and remove the ball end of the cables from the lock and handle. Now remove the wire going to the door pocket light by pressing the tab on the connector and pull out. Do the same for the plug going to the window switches. That's all I can remember but I think that will do it. Be careful not to let the cables support the weight of the door panel as the plastic will break and you will have to buy and install new cables. They are about $15.00 each but they are a bear to install in the door. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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drmorbius said:
Pry up the top part of the armrest(it's held on by clips) with a screwdriver and remove the giant phillips head screw. Remove the curved piece of plastic inside the door handle and remove the phillips head screw. On the front doors there is a push pin at the forward top position(that round black thing). Pry that out carefully.Lower the window and carefully pry out the door panel releasing each clip. There is one more clip in the center of the panel so once you have the panel loose all the way around just reach under or from the side and support the panel as you pull it out. When it is all free lift the panel up off the door. You will see two cables at the top that go to the the door handle and lock. Release the plastic part of the cable from it's clip(both cables) and remove the ball end of the cables from the lock and handle. Now remove the wire going to the door pocket light by pressing the tab on the connector and pull out. Do the same for the plug going to the window switches. That's all I can remember but I think that will do it. Be careful not to let the cables support the weight of the door panel as the plastic will break and you will have to buy and install new cables. They are about $15.00 each but they are a bear to install in the door. Don't ask me how I know.
Click to expand...
I have a PDF of this from the factory service manual but have forgotten how to post a pic. If you can send me an email adress I will send the PDF doc.
 
Got the door panes off today. As I figured they are going to take some modification to get the 6.5 Focal midranges in the doors.

Does anyone make an aftermarket piece that will welcome the Focals? Or should I just modify the current housing?
 
oksailor said:
Got the door panes off today. As I figured they are going to take some modification to get the 6.5 Focal midranges in the doors.

Does anyone make an aftermarket piece that will welcome the Focals? Or should I just modify the current housing?
Click to expand...
Are the Focals 6.5 round speakers? If so ebay vendors sell 6x9 to 6.5 round adaptors.
 
Got the front ones in. Now I am working on the rear speakers that are 6.5s. The factory speakers and housing appear to work only with eachother as i cannot get the Focals to mount flush to bracket
 
why dont u guys just cut new spacers out of mdf, it only takees less then 30 mins to do all 6 cut outs, 2 for the rears, 2 for the fronts and also 2 for the tweeter. so why focals u have? im running the focal tn52 tweeter, with my a/d/s/ 346is woofer and crossover for the front, and a/d/s/ 336im for the rears, have 2 jl 300/2 powering the doors and a 500/1 powering the 2 12w3v2 in ho box. 150watts for each speaker isnt overkill, just pure sq in my setup.
 
That is what i did with my front door focal 165 k2p's. For the rears should I get rid of the factory adapter and MDF straight to the door?

Also trying to decide if I should put the tweeters in the rear pillars or not.

Anyone heard the new Eclipse 125x4 amp? Looks to be an ideal amp now that I will not be putting a sub in this 4Runner
 
The Eclipse would probably work. I would check out Alpine if I were you. They are very solid amps and are really small. They often times put out more than rated RMS too. Check out the PDX 4.100
 
Clemsonfan15 said:
The Eclipse would probably work. I would check out Alpine if I were you. They are very solid amps and are really small. They often times put out more than rated RMS too. Check out the PDX 4.100
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking of going with the PDX-5 Five channel amp with some components in the front doors and co-axs in the rear doors. Then replacing the sub with an 8" Pioneer shallow sub. Are you guys replacing the speakers in the rear pillars and center channel area? I was planning to just leave the rear pillars disconnected and using the space the where the center channel was for antennas (sirius, future 8120 nav).

I know I posted another thread about this, but does anyone have the dimensions for the stock JBL Synthesis amp as I'd like to see if the PDX-5 would fit in that area.
 
for the rears, i would put the tweeter right under the window switch, also for an amp, dont get alpie, they are crap, i would suggest using something like the audison vrx amp. how many amps are u willing to put in ur truck? also go on ebay and buy some dynamat, the mega bulk pack is pretty cheap and with the whole box, u can dynamat all doors and tailgate and trunk floor, i did this and it sounds way better.
 
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