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Old 05-03-2014, 12:40 AM
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 36
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Real Name: Shane
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nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 36
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road

For the time being you need to leave the rag joint disconnected so there is no stress on it while jacking the body up off the frame. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**

Step 4 - Installing spacers and new body bolts

This step is where I didn't really take as many pictures because the sun was going down, the instructions SUCKED, and I wanted to finish. I started with the drivers side front and worked my way to the back. All the body mount bolts are 17mm inside the car and 14mm outside the car with the exception being the front mount bolts. They are 14mm on the top and bottom. *Only take one side of the vehicle apart at a time! Make sure to remove all the body bolts for one side before attempting to jack the body up. *Make sure to not mix up the bolts and their locations or their assembly order.* I took one body mount off at a time and reassembled it off the car. Until I was ready to reinstall that particular one I left it directly beneath the mount location it belongs with. Once the 5 body mounts for the drivers side are removed, switch out the hardware to the new bolts of correct length.
-The front body mounts use the longest bolts supplied.
-The drivers and passenger kick panel bolts get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
-The body bolts behind the drivers/passenger seat and underneath the rear seat both get replaced with the middle length bolts supplied.
-The rear body mounts in the cargo area get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.

I used a 27mm socket and a sand filled rubber mallet to remove the built on washers from the original bolts. I put the socket over the head of the bolt and gave it a few good smacks and the washer came right off each bolt.

Washer removal



After switching out the washers and hardware jack up the body in the middle of the side of the vehicle so it goes up evenly front to rear about an inch or slightly more to allow the pucks to be inserted in between the body mounts and the body. One at a time insert a puck and reassemble its body bolt and hand tighten them. *Important: There are two spacer pucks that are smaller in diameter, they are the front body mounts and shouldn't be confused and used elsewhere. After all 5 of the drivers side mounts have been switched and hand tightened lower the body back down.

Drivers side done

Repeat the same exact procedure for the passenger side.

-The new body bolts and nuts are 14mm for both the bolt and the nylon lock nut.

Once both sides are completed you can go around the vehicle and snug up all the nuts and bolts for the body mounts. Then reinstall the interior panels in reverse order.

Driver front body mount - Top


Bottom


Drivers kick panel mount


Mount behind drivers seat


Mount next to rear passenger seat - drivers side


Rear drivers side mount


Rear passenger mount


Mount next to rear passenger seat - passenger side


Mount behind passenger seat


Passenger kick panel mount


Both front mounts





Step 5A - Reinstall the bumper
Bumper installs in reverse order, but make sure to align the fender bolts on the bumper to go into the fender mounts. They need to be angled up a bit in order to make it to the raised body. *The body is now 1" higher than the front bumper, so the bumper will be angled slightly downward now. The bumper bolts to the frame should be torqued with a torque wrench to 32ft-lbs. The fender bolts can be hand tightened to snug fit.

*If you want to avoid the nose dive and gapped bumper skip to step 5B*

Gapped bumper with downward angle
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Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-04-2014 at 12:35 AM.
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