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Old 05-28-2015, 11:53 PM
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absalom absalom is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 17
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Real Name: Jordan
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absalom absalom is offline
Senior Member
absalom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 17
Posts: 2,049
Real Name: Jordan
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Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:
  • Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
  • Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
  • Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
  • I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
  • Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!

The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up.
  • New OEM lower ball joints
    ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
  • New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
  • Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
    • Brake fluid
    • Engine oil
    • Power steering fluid
    • Differential fluid
    • Coolant flush
  • New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
  • New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
  • New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
  • New OME 906 rear springs
  • New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
  • New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
  • Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
  • Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)




The Maverick - Brand New!!

The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits.
  • New OEM lower ball joints
    ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
  • New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
  • Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
    • Brake fluid
    • Engine oil
    • Power steering fluid
    • Differential fluid
    • Coolant flush
  • New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
  • New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
  • New Durobump bumpstops
  • New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
  • New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
  • New OME 906 rear springs
  • New Bilstein 6112's up front
  • New Bilstein 5160's out back
  • New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo Open Country AT3's for this build, in B-rating)
  • Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
  • Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
  • HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

Last edited by absalom; 06-11-2020 at 01:44 PM.
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