Home Menu

Site Navigation


View Single Post
Old 04-24-2016, 09:46 PM
Randyman...'s Avatar
Randyman... Randyman... is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 695
Randyman... is on a distinguished road
Randyman... Randyman... is offline
Member
Randyman...'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 695
Randyman... is on a distinguished road
I never even tried to use the stock radio (any stock radio for that matter!) to drive the system - but I know the LC7i will give you a very good chance for success.

If the JL 3.5"s will fit in the dash (they should - please baffle them properly into the dash openings) - I'd go with a true 6x9" midbass in the front doors - quite a few descent ones to look at. You will have substantially more cone area and superior extension compared to a 6.5" in the front doors (and you really don't want the doors to run as full-range with a tweeter if you are getting that portion of your soundstage from the 3.5" coax dash speakers).

I'd also nix the rear-hatch speakers IMNSHO (wasted money). TBH - the ONLY time my rear-door speakers are faded on is when someone is in the rear seats and really wants to hear the system. Otherwise the rear door speakers (and especially the rear-hatch speakers) only distract and confuse the real soundstage that propagates from the front...

This brings into question your crossover strategy and quantity of discrete amplifier channels. I'd consider a passive DIY crossover from the 6x9"s in the front doors (a simple inductor will do in a pinch) to the 3.5"s in the dash (a simple 12dB/Octave L/C circuit to help with power-handling) - and let those share amplifier channels accordingly (2 channels drive all 4 speakers up front). Use the extra 2 channels for the rear doors so you can fade them (mute them ) as needed. Otherwise - go active for the front (using all 4 primary channels on that amp), and look for a tiny 2-channel amp for the rear doors (the rear doors should really be where you skimp if needed IMO).

Having every driver location on its own amp channel is advantageous for a number of reasons (time-alignment possibilities and crossover tweak-ability) assuming you can splurge for the DSP to allow it. 6-8 Channel DSP's start to get a bit pricey - but not out of the realm of sanity IMO.

Subs are a little light for my tastes - but I'm known to be a bit over the top with my SPL/SQL requirements. I'm sure they will be a nice balanced match for your front stage...

__________________
Randy V
2013 4Runner * SR5 * 4x4 * Leather * Convenience Package * Black-on-Black *
* BFG KO LT265/70R17/C * SR5 Wheels + SpiderTrax * 5100's @ .85" * GrillCraft Grill Mods & TOYOTA Emblem * H9 & H9011 Headlight Swap *
* Alpine W910 DVD/NAV + H800 DSP * ARC Audio * JBL * JL * Morel * DieHard Platinum 31M * Total system power = 4,048 Watts RMS ! *

Last edited by Randyman...; 04-24-2016 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Spelling sucks!
Randyman... is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
 
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:53 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020