6. Cover gaps - You need something to span the large gaps so you can apply filler. Many people use fiberglass and such, but I was determined to find an alternative, and I found two. The one I used, which didn't work too well, and the one you can use that will be much easier.

I wondered why none of the Satoshi information I found online suggested using this metal mesh backing material. Seemed perfect for the job.



Yeah, no. I was able to make it work but it’s too flexible to make a solid backing for the body filler. The part at the top in the pic wants to bend out as pressure is applied.



As things often go, I figured out afterwards what would work perfectly: sheet styrene plastic, which is available at hobby supply stores.



My best guess as to thickness is around .030 to .040 but you’ll be able to judge it for yourself. It must be solid enough for a good base surface to fill over, but flexible enough to wrap around curves. Cut it (scissors usually work) to fit the openings with a couple of inches of overlap on each side. Apply Automotive Goop according to the directions, clamp in place, and allow to dry before proceeding.

Moving on, here’s what it should look like with the gaps covered and ready for filler:



7. Fill and sand - The next step is the toughest and most time-consuming (sand, sand, sand...). Use your choice of body filler to cover the backing material in the gaps and any other imperfections on the inside surface. I didn’t get many pics of this because of time constraints, the mess made by sanding the filler, and the urgency of starting to lose the daylight.

This is also where inexperience caused a lot of undue frustration. One of my biggest lessons was that this is a two-product process: first the filler, then the Glazing and Spot Putty. I couldn’t figure out why all my sanding, even using the finest paper, wasn't leaving a good, smooth paintable surface. Some Google time and a trip to buy the putty solved the problem. It fills the small imperfections and sands down smooth.

Here’s the result, ready for (more) paint. The black areas are from painting then realizing the surface wasn’t smooth enough to look right.



Remember it doesn't have to be perfect; if it looks good from 3 or 4 feet, you're good to go. Few people are going to stick their faces in there and really examine it. Which is funny for me to say because I'm usually a perfectionist about this stuff. But a colleague who noticed that trait gave me some wise advice that came in handy here: sometimes done is better than perfect. Not that it looks crappy, not at all. It's just not factory-quality smooth, which would normally be my goal.