Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
Hey Dudes, Sean and I did a brake fluid flush on Sean's rig. The FSM does say to immerse your drain tube into some brake fluid and I've also seen other videos like from Chris Fix and Eric the Car Guy who say this step is necessary. I had never heard of this before doing the flush on Sean's rig and I honestly don't think it's necessary. If you do everything correctly, you should not pull any air into your brake system. My thinking is this, if it were actually crucial to do this step, than you would technically have to start off with your drain tube evacuated of air as well.
Anyway, I would like to hear some comments regarding the whole drain tube immersed in brake fluid. I've never done this and I've always had good results with my brake bleeds so I'm taking the position it's not necessary. Maybe it's more of a back-up in case the person doing the brake pedal pumping lifts up on the pedal before you had a chance to close the bleeder.
Enjoy the show!
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Wow, I didn't realize you had so many videos up now. Well done, if I had the time and patience to record the repairs I've done I could add to this... but I don't lol.
If I could add a suggestion to this, you can also bleed the brakes with the engine on and running. I do have a 98, which has a different brake booster than yours though. The pump does not run at On, only after starting the engine. However, once it's on you can press the brake and then, keeping pressure on the pedal, pump it continually and it will cause a constant flow of fluid that does NOT suck in air or old fluid. I can bleed one line in about 10 seconds this way, all 4 goes super fast. I agree completely on the video and even more so if you do it the way I do, keep the master cylinder reservoir full or else!
I do understand the submersing the other end in oil to keep it from sucking in air part, but at least on Toyotas it has never been an issue for me so I also do not do it.
