Hi Andrew,

I've been through it... trust me on this one! My dashboard notification center lit up like it was Chinese New Year on the 4TH of July in Times Square; not good! Not only did my Speed-o-meter and Tach-o-meter stop working, but on occasion, I'd be taking my sweety out on a date and all of my dashboard back-lighting would just shut-off while driving at night... couldn't see the instrument cluster at all! What made matters worst was no one was willing to work on it; Toyota wouldn't touch it cuz they saw that I had a few aftermarket "amenities" on the truck e.g., Fog-lights, LED on the bull-bar, DC Power Engineering 270-XP under the hood...etc!

And none of the independent diagnostic shops in the area knew how to trouble-shoot an ECU problem where the ECU wasn't communicating, meaning that the ECU 'itself' was the problem! As it turned out... I was on my own! So I understand where you are right now. And if you haven't found out what it means to have even the dealerships shut their bay doors on you when you're still under warranty... you'll find out lol! Okay, here's what has likely happened. Your Main Body ECU COMPU Network has lost one of it's power sources, meaning, one of the two 10A ECU fuses in the Driver-side junction/fusebox or the 10A ECU-B fuse in the Engine Room, Main Relay/Fusebox under the hood has become blown or (more than likely) dislodged to the point where the contacts aren't making proper connection with the prongs on the fuses or the Short Pin in the main Relay/fusebox is not making proper connection with the contacts that secure it in it's slot; hence, a power supply loss!

Okay, here's what you do: Try pulling out each ECU fuse from the driver-side fusebox. Check it for an OPENED CIRCUIT. If it checks out, return it to it's slot and move to the next one; I could have sworn that there were three ECU fuses in the D/S fuse box alone, but I just checked it before posting and I saw only two, but... it's been a long day! Next, move to the Main fusebox under the hood. Remove the cover and find the '10A Fuse labeled ECU-B'; that's the HOT AT ALL TIMES fuse that keeps the Main Body ECU COMPU Network energized so that it is capable of storing temporary files/history logs and trouble codes for future reference! Test the fuse and if it checks out, return it to it's slot, making certain that it's pushed firmly in it's slot...

Now do the same with the 'SHORT PIN'; it's not a fuse but just an electrical buss bar, joining two different sections of the main box, so you don't need to check it for an opened circuit like you would with a fuse, but only that it's pushed securely into it's contact slot! PS: Please double check that there aren't any other fuses marked ECU before closing the two boxes up! Once you're certain that you've checked that all ECU fuses are not blown and are pushed securely into their contact slots, you're done, now button it up! Start it up and those instrument cluster notification icons should be gone. Also, your OBD-ll portal should be communicating as it was prior to this system failure! Please be sure to let us know if this did or did not resolve your problem(s), but I'm sure that the MB-ECU has lost a portion of it's power supply. If this procedure hasn't resolved the trouble then we'll need to approach this a different way, so "don't be discouraged"..., Best to you,

rig