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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 683
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
I was hesitant to reply to this topic because I didn't trust myself to post a serious reply...but my reply would have been..."my wife" she's eeerr a mechanic as well...yes that's right and she can torque my nuts!!
Unfortunately not, the heads have to be installed as well as the cams, timming belt, etc., etc., basically the engine needs to be totally put back together, then all the valve clearances have to be checked, any that aren't within tolerance will have to be "adjusted" and that's when the fun parts starts, the valves have a cap/cup on top of each valve, the cam lobes run in these cups to open the valves, and in between the cup and the valve stem there's a specific size shim, this shim is what sets the proper valve clearance, any valve that's doesn't have the proper clearance will need the shim replaced thusly "adjusting" the valve clearance, unfortunately to replace the shim for one that corrects the clearance the cup needs to be removed and to do that the cam needs to be removed, pull the cup/s and replace the shim/s with a thicker or thinner shim/s to achieve the proper valve clearance....so you check all the clearances make very accurate notes on which valves needs "adjustment" and by how much +/- and then starts the fun of taking the cam/s off pull the cup/ss, swap out shim/s and then install the cams check the clearances again and hope you took good notes and got it all right so you don't have to do it all again!
Also when the heads are removed to be reworked make sure you keep all the cups and shims organized so they go back exactly where they came off, you may get lucky and the valves when reassembled are not that far off and needs no "adjustment" but again unfortunately I doubt that will happen after the work is done on the heads/valves.
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What?? I'm not sure where you are getting this information. If you take your heads to a Racing engine shop where they build Racing engines, they have all the equipment available to completely build the heads with all clearances on all valves completely set up to bolt onto the engine with proper seat pressure having never seen the block or the car at all. I do understand that there are very few shops that can do this, in Sacramento CA there are 2 shops that can do it. You could even take a random basket of head parts to them completely out of order and they will deliver to you an assembled head ready to bolt onto the engine. (That last scenario would cost you a lot of $$$$)
I have already had this done with my own engine and it is running amazingly with better gas mileage and power than before it exploded. The shop never saw the engine or the car and rebuilt my heads after a catastrophic event where the valves hit the pistons. I put them back on the engine in my backyard by myself 2 years ago and the 2uz-fe is still running great.
It doesn't have to cost a zillion dollars to rebuild a 2uz. Granted its not as simple as a domestic engine, but there are some very good shops that can handle it.
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2005 Blue SR5 v8
3" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 315's, rear Elocker, on-board air system, slider air tanks, full skid plates, front Demello bumper, rear HMF plate/tube bumper, rear 9000lb hidden winch, front 10000lb winch, dual electric fans (in cab adjustable temp), rock lights, 25W LED projector lights.
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