Quote:
Originally Posted by MAST4R
Thanks for this. This time last year there were 3 serious skid plate offerings after 8 years of 5th gen production. Suddenly, we are getting 3 more?
I think that what one expects with 6 vs 3 is a bit of a downward price adjustment.
If I were in your shoes, I would:
--try to reduce the prices, especially of easy skids like transmission skid.
--offer 3/16 steel we can drag over rocks plus aluminum and 1/8 steel that offers more coverage than stock. Only RCI offers affordable aluminum prices. Only BudBuild offers 1/8 steel which is what most need, actually.
--optimize front skid plate for minimum ground clearance loss under front edge
--ensure that front skid is even better supported than the good competition, for example, strengthen the crossmember were the middle supports of RCI or BudBuild plates attach.
--offer a tight fit rear differential skid that does not cost 300. 150 would be nice. It is not as essential, but needed to preserve drain plug and appearance.
--Offer rear LCA bracket skids that don't require drilling.
--Offer gas tank skid that has strong front and not just bottom and that attaches using the factory holes but not the gas tank strap holes!
--Offer a hitch skid plate/rear bumper skid plate that does not cost 160 like Skidmark and that does not interfere with the spare tire like the new one sold for 100 everywhere including 4WD parts.
Provide good info on the website about why the skids are better and provide pictures inside and out of each plus mounted.
Btw, I did not drill the hole for my pax side Shrock slider underneath the crossmemember and I have dragged that slider over rocks with no issues.
For sliders, Shrock offers superb powdercoating and cheap. That's about the one big difference between the models with sufficient strength. Also, most sliders are now pushing 1000 when finished, which is crazy.
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I think this is pretty much spot on.
The gas tank skid should be able to bolt to the OEM skid mounting points. I fabricated one for my 4Runner that does that. It wasn't particularly challenging to do. The front mounting point does need to be recessed a bit - but you can just use the OEM skid from a TRD OR/Pro to measure and make a jig. I think the skid from your SR5 is only a partial coverage skid unless they changed skids on the SR5.
My .02 is that sliders should not need drilled holes. There are so many mounting points on the frame rails that they should be designed to bolt on. Use the pinch weld as a support point and you can drop the weight and make them bolt on without drilling. Also if you don't already know - the Trail/TRDOR models come with KDSS as an optional feature. It's a hydraulic sway bar link system. What matters to you is that the engine skid is different between the two and also the KDSS accumulator (hydraulic manifold with reservoirs) is located on the frame rail and the sliders may not fit around that system without being engineered to do so. So it's most likely that your SR5 sliders do not fit KDSS equipped models. And for sure your engine skid will not fit.
You may or may not also know that the GX460 and Prado 150 share the same platform. So it would be worth test fitting your products on a GX and offering the parts that fit both in both markets. They share the same frame and suspension with the KDSS equipped 4Runners, but they have a v8 - so exhaust fitment is going to be different. And of course the body is different.
A better rear diff skid would be nice. I'm not sure if you have the manufacturing facilities to do the ideal design (few manufacturers I'm aware of do - or would spend the $ for the die set to do this, but since I'm daydreaming... - a stamped formed plate that fits very tight. The most important function of a rear diff skid would be to protect the pinion flange. A really good hit on the pinion flange can crush the crush-sleeve and end up with a loose pinion bearing preload that ultimately causes problems down the road.
I would try to modify the engine skid you have to protect the lower control arm cam bolts in the front. They get really hammered if you go play in the rocks. A LCA skid is unnecessary, but protection for the LCA cam bolts and flanges would be valuable. Otherwise I like your design. It fits tight and looks good!
If you do have the tooling to stamp 1/8" sheet - some stamped skids could cut the weight significantly and still be stronger than most of the formed plate options. No one is puncturing the steel plate. It's the rigidity that is the driver of thicker plate.
These fit and are already available, but not easy to get in the USA. If you could stamp them in 1/8" mild steel they'd be a great option.
The front winch bumper looks great BTW. My suggestion on that would simply be to offer without any cutout for the light bar. Should be easy to do. Also offer without the tow hoops. I think there is at least some market for one without those things for a cleaner look. And show pics of the structure on the backside. It's something most of us would want to see before buying - and as soon as the first person gets one, they're going to post pictures anyway.
As for new products:
A kaymar style rear tire carrier. Put the tire relatively low. Off to the side so you can see out the back. And keep the weight low. Like this:
Good luck!
