Quantum's Manual-Swapped 2000 Build

Quantumkiwi

Quantumkiwi

New member
Quantum's 2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5

I bought my 4Runner in August 2017 in great condition with 180k miles on the clock, it had spent its whole life in California and New Mexico. It was well maintained by its previous owner and is mostly rust free. I spent the past year with it completely stock and after lurking the forums for a few months, I can finally start working on it. As someone who has never worked on cars before, I know this will be a great learning experience.

Specs when purchased:
2000 SR5 4x4 5VZ-FE Automatic
2 owner with 180k miles
No elocker
Condition: interior 9/10, exterior 6/10




Upgrades and Modifications - (As of 2/2019)

Wheels & Tires:
Tundra Brake Mod
Procomp 7069 16 inch alloy wheels
285/75/16 BFG KO2s


Suspension:
1in Body Lift
SS 1.2 Lift
SPC UCA's (set at 'D')

Engine/Drive Train:
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve

Armor
4xInnovations Front Skid Plate
4xInnovations Transmission Skid Plate
4xInnovations Rock Sliders
Front Coastal Offroad Bumper
Rear Coastal Offroad Bumper with swingout

Interior:
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X501
Ultragauge MX1.3

Exterior:
Tacoma Whip Mod
Wotefusi Hilux Snorkel


Current:
uGckXXf.jpg




As I bought it:
tLIJD83.jpg


Maintenance:
188853 - Oil Change, Transmission Fluid change, New rear brake pads
190700 - New Front Brake Pads and rotors, Power steering flush and reservoir cleaned
191000 - Replaced LBJs with OEM
192668 - Oil Change, Replaced PCV and Gasket
198000 - Oil Change
203207 - Oil Change
​
 
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Last week, did the Tacoma Whip mod, finally put a new stereo in, and installed a Hilux Snorkel. I would highly recommend using a sufficiently sized hole saw to cut the intake hole in the fender. You can do it with a drill, jigsaw, and file, but it takes about 3 times as long and isn't that fun.

Gave the throttle body its first cleaning in 18 years, and decided to go on a road trip on one of my favorite roads up to Colorado. Was very surprised to average about 24 mpg on the way back. Must have been the extra air pressure from the forward facing snorkel and the cleaner intake.

dzBoKnV.jpg


Next on the list are 1.25in spacers and the Tundra brake upgrade.
 
I'm excited for this build thread especially since we share stomping grounds! However, I'll be moving up to Fort Collins next year. Anyways, love the plans for the truck. By the way, pictures aren't showing up for me.
 
Charlene said:
I'm excited for this build thread especially since we share stomping grounds! However, I'll be moving up to Fort Collins next year. Anyways, love the plans for the truck. By the way, pictures aren't showing up for me.
Click to expand...

Hey, its always great to see someone from NM! I've been running around the dirt roads in the Carson for the past few weekends, and managed to get my buddy's Jeep in a bit of a tight spot on an old "road." Love the area there, don't see many people.

Hmm, I even tried a few different browsers and the pictures worked for me. I did initially mess up the links so hopefully it should work now.
 
Been a bit lazy with keeping this updated, so I'll try to do better from here on out.

Let me preface this by mentioning it was my first time ever touching a car's brakes.

Finished with the TBU and put 1.25 in spacers on to clear the calipers.

zWrjR18.jpg


I also replaced the flexible brake lines with stainless steel lines from Wheeler's. I was a bit surprised at the tension in the new lines at full droop, but I don't plan on going long travel (yet) so I reckon its fine for now.

It was a bit of a struggle to plug the lines, so I ended up using some vise grips and rubber hose I had lying around. I leaked a lot of fluid while I tried to figure this out (as I'm sure you can see in the 2nd pic)
Then I ended up stripping both hardlines closest to the caliper on the driver's side, I didn't even overtorque them, but it did require a bit of effort to get them off. I was initially concerned about getting air in my master cylinder, but after a whole liter of brake fluid, I ended up getting a good stiff brake feel.

V4AvuMz.jpg


Next episode will be finishing up my compressor setup and installing a gas tank skid.
If anyone could direct me to resources for plumbing a compressor hardline (or softline, not opposed) so I could relocate my air connect, that would be much appreciated. I honestly don't even know what to search for (i.e. what the fittings or tube type is called.)
 
Recently replaced my passenger side window switch thingy, looks like the PO broke the clip holding it in place, and then proceeded to use Elmer's glue (or something completely worthless) to "try" and hold it in place. What a mess.
Well, I was at a conference in Dallas last week, and seeing as they actually have junkyards there within 3 hours drive, I decided to pick up a replacement.

bOlN5Dw.jpg



Also, threw on a gas tank skid from Lil' Skips. Thing is pretty meaty. No complaints there.

91uBDVE.jpg
 
Well, turns out this build is not all success.
After spending all last weekend putting my lift in, I found out that I put the UBJ fitting thing for my SPC UCAs in upside down. According to the instructions, I believe that they should be installed with the flared base down and the snap-ring on top.

SJqymhk.jpg


I don't think I will make too big of a difference, but I might as well do things properly the first time around.

Also, I will start tacking some steel for bumpers together this weekend, hopefully it will turn out ok. Don't have too much experience with mig, and would prefer to do this with tig, but I'm only gonna learn one way.
 
Jon88 said:
Let’s see how it’s looking now! Is that the toy tech/boss lift?
Click to expand...



Its the SS1.2 lift, with the SPC UCAs. I'll see if I can post some pics tomorrow, I've got to drive 1 hr each way to get my tires mounted (gotta love small towns.)

It looks a bit silly right now, since I need to weld up both my bumpers, so the lift is sitting very high, about 5inches back and 3.5 front.
 
Last edited:
Thing looks awesome.

I would suggest doing LBJ’s and either a new radiator or a trans cooler.

We know those are the two weak point in these trucks.


Just talked to my brother in-law who has a 2002. His trans randomly blew on a small road trip. Cost him $3,500 to get a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Collkid said:
I would suggest doing LBJ’s and either a new radiator or a trans cooler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Those are high up on my TODO list. I'm trying to get through the backlog of what I think are necessary maintenance items. They are a bit expensive, so I'll probably get around to them in the next month or so. I ordered some steering rack bushings yesterday, since my rack was moving about an inch from side to side when the steering wheel was wiggled back and forth. It's nice to know I probably won't have to shell out for a new rack.
 
Jon88 said:
Let’s see how it’s looking now!
Click to expand...

Promised photos, will deliver.

I tried to fix my UBJ steering knuckle sleeve mixup, but couldn't get the UBJ bolt out of it and didn't want to destroy my UBJ. I'll probably just run it and see how it goes, it seemed relatively solid anyway.

I got some new tires this weekend, KO2 in 285/75/16's with Procomp 7069 wheels. Kinda wanted the 295's or 315's but they were out of stock nationwide, and I haven't re-geared yet, so decided to run what was available for a bit.
Had to drive both ways twice since when I got home and unloaded the tires, the wheel weights all fell off. The service manager at Discount Tire told me that its more likely to happen when they put them on when it's cold, and assured me he would use a heat gun the second time around. Not confidence inspiring, but I guess its another thing to keep my eye on. For future reference, the wheels had 4.25, 3.5, 2.75, 1.75, and 1oz of weights on them.

And finally, a picture:

voSuIYZ.jpg
 
Quantumkiwi said:
Promised photos, will deliver.

I tried to fix my UBJ steering knuckle sleeve mixup, but couldn't get the UBJ bolt out of it and didn't want to destroy my UBJ. I'll probably just run it and see how it goes, it seemed relatively solid anyway.

I got some new tires this weekend, KO2 in 285/75/16's with Procomp 7069 wheels. Kinda wanted the 295's or 315's but they were out of stock nationwide, and I haven't re-geared yet, so decided to run what was available for a bit.
Had to drive both ways twice since when I got home and unloaded the tires, the wheel weights all fell off. The service manager at Discount Tire told me that its more likely to happen when they put them on when it's cold, and assured me he would use a heat gun the second time around. Not confidence inspiring, but I guess its another thing to keep my eye on. For future reference, the wheels had 4.25, 3.5, 2.75, 1.75, and 1oz of weights on them.

And finally, a picture:

voSuIYZ.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks nice man! Yea those stick on weights never stay on, I see a lot of people put gorilla duct tape on them to secure them lol. I always try to get the weights that snap on the edge of the rim.
 
T4topher said:
Looks nice man! Yea those stick on weights never stay on, I see a lot of people put gorilla duct tape on them to secure them lol. I always try to get the weights that snap on the edge of the rim.
Click to expand...

I've got a roll of 3M double sided tape that I used to stick my snorkel to my A-pillar, its strong enough to strip paint off, I think I will use that if anything seems questionable. On the other hand, I might just stick some duct tape over it now, so I don't have to take the wheels off.
 
Looking great, that paint looks rly good too!

Quantumkiwi said:
Promised photos, will deliver.

I tried to fix my UBJ steering knuckle sleeve mixup, but couldn't get the UBJ bolt out of it and didn't want to destroy my UBJ. I'll probably just run it and see how it goes, it seemed relatively solid anyway.

I got some new tires this weekend, KO2 in 285/75/16's with Procomp 7069 wheels. Kinda wanted the 295's or 315's but they were out of stock nationwide, and I haven't re-geared yet, so decided to run what was available for a bit.
Had to drive both ways twice since when I got home and unloaded the tires, the wheel weights all fell off. The service manager at Discount Tire told me that its more likely to happen when they put them on when it's cold, and assured me he would use a heat gun the second time around. Not confidence inspiring, but I guess its another thing to keep my eye on. For future reference, the wheels had 4.25, 3.5, 2.75, 1.75, and 1oz of weights on them.

And finally, a picture:

voSuIYZ.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Finished tacking bumpers today. Goal for tonight is to finish LBJ's, then drive it to town tomorrow for an alignment and to pick up some hardware for the rear swingout.

ZArYZef.jpg


cFZ0gFX.jpg
 
Out with the old, in with the new. Replaced LBJ's

Part Number Part Description Quantity Core Price Price Total
4333039585 JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL 1 $0.00 $110.28 $110.28
4334039465 JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL 1 $0.00 $110.28 $110.28
9008010066 BOLT, FLANGE 8 $0.00 $1.18 $9.44
Sub Total $230.00
Shipping method - Free Fed Ex Ground S Shipping $0.00
Handling Fee $3.00
Tax $0.00
Total $233.00


Also, wasn't able to torque up the lower LBJ nut, since I thought it was a 22mm (according to the LBJ "Official Thread"), then went out to buy a 22mm socket right before the shops closed, and found it didn't fit. So I just torqued it down with a big adjustable wrench for now and will get a proper socket in the morning.

And pics:
x4vkEO8.jpg



Also, reckon I need new tie rods. But its kinda expensive, so its gonna have to wait a bit. Afaik tie rods aren't really known to fail catastrophically while driving on the road.

They just flop down when you drop the end, I heard that's a sign its shot. Also, I think there might be some paly, but I will ahve to see how much when I get the wheels back on and jack it up again.
https://i.imgur.com/XpqjykN.mp4

Plan for tomorrow is to finish welding both bumpers, get an alignment, and grab some steel stock for a tire carrier
 
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