Quote:
Originally Posted by JRZEE2000TR4LTD
A few strange things here looking at the readouts.
First, in the before measurements the left wheel is showing at of spec with 2.6 degrees. Factory specs are 1.5-1.7 to 3.5-3.7 degrees so that wheel should show green like the other side showing 2.2 degrees. I can barely see the specs but it looks like it's showing different specs side to side which I have never seen before with our trucks. As mentioned, you should either make caster less or camber more on the drivers side or the opposite on the passenger side to compensate for road crown (most people use caster to accomplish this) but I've never seen it speced like that before. Me thinks someone has entered some custom specs to get it it "green". Green doesn't make it right.
Secondly, if the tech were able to get that much caster on the left there should be enough to dial it back and also dial back the camber too because when you change caster you change camber. You may have a frozen cam but I would think a tech would see that and obviously since you have new OEM LCAs you should have full adjust ability, because the LCAs should have come with new OEM bushings. Me thinks the technician is doing something wrong here. Maybe they are not loosening both cams before doing the adjustments. You have to loosen both front and back to make proper adjustments.
You may find you'll need aftermarket UCAs. I have 32s (275 70 17) When I adjusted mine, when I got my camber in spec my caster ended up around 1 degree which is out of spec. Get the SPC LR UCAs and get your full range of adjust ability back and stop the shop from throwing parts at the problem and emptying your wallet.
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Sadly I have aftermarket UCA’s which is why I’m so confused. They are adjustable with 2 degrees of camber and 4 degrees of caster. At this point I’m wondering if it’s simply the alignment shop not being very good at their job and considering Going to toyota or a dedicated 4 Wheel Parts store for an alignment at either of those places