I recently bought 4 Spidertrax wheel spacers, p/n WHS007 (thanks, @JONBOY345 ).

(Update - don’t waste your time painting these as it doesn’t last long.) Decided to paint them with Rustoleum High Heat paint as I like the black look better behind the wheels, however they are now available in black (p/n WHS007K) if you prefer that and plan to order some. Prep included:
- brush washing with Simple Green & Dawn
- scuffing with a sanding pad
- taping off the lugs
- wipedown with DupliColor Grease & Wax remover
- cloth dry
- blast of high pressure air to take care of any remaining moisture or dust.

Note - didn't prime since the high heat paint specifically recommended no primer.

Before


Back sides after painting


Finished


I then installed the spacers. Our forum member J.A. has an excellent write-up and I also highly recommend downloading Spidertrax's directions from this page. I used the version listed first as 4th Gens have M12 lugs. Torque for the Spidertrax nuts onto the wheel hub is 90 ft lbs with red thread locker. The instructions also call for a check using your torque wrench set to 80 ft lbs once you’ve driven 50 miles after installation.

You are (obviously) responsible for properly completing work on your vehicle, following the Spidertrax installation instructions, and observing all appropriate safety precautions.

It's pretty straightforward. For the fronts, you’ll need to keep the wheels from spinning (parking brake works for the rears). J.A. explains one method on his page; I just applied the brakes using a 23” board with a towel to protect the seat where it was wedged.


Tip: Because the nuts attaching the spacers to the hub are recessed, using a short extension with the 19mm socket makes it much easier to get the bolts started and spin them down to the surface during the initial install.

Today I did the 50-mile torque check & fender liner adjustments b/c the tires rubbed when backing up. Waiting to see whether I want to do the slight bumper edge trim as J.A. did. As expected, some of the paint has worn off the mating surface. Doesn't matter as this part won't be visible. Probably should have skipped painting the front.


Adjusting the fender liners is necessary in the front only. This is the passenger side front fender liner before adjustment, viewed from directly underneath. Note how the (really dirty) black liner overlaps the silver edge of the lower bumper.


Remove the screws (2 on the driver side, 3 on passenger side) and the nutserts (you do not reuse the nutserts). You will use the same holes in the bottom of the bumper. Push the liner forward, line it up with the existing hole, and drill a new hole in the liner for at least two of the screws (I did use the 3rd one on the PS too to prevent any movement or rattling.) Some kind of plastic or rubber washer is recommended.


Here's the same view from directly underneath and the liner no longer overlaps the bumper.


This is the adjusted liner from the wheel well, now a couple of inches forward of the bumper edge.


For a basis to compare how this might look on your truck, mine is close to leveled with a very mild lift (the small amount afforded by my new-to-me TRD Offroad setup). Tires are SE stock size (265/65/17) Michelin Defenders and obviously it’s on stock SE wheels. You wouldn’t think 2.5” of additional width would be that big a deal, but I really like both the look (this stance is how 4Rs should come from the factory) and the driving characteristics.