Ok, so this one isn't as simple to install as the LLS (but it's pretty straightforward, nonetheless.) It's a tight fit, that requires some tapping and clamping into position.

First, here's the problem with using upgraded joints in the stock upper link mount:



you can see that there is no room for it to articulate without binding the mount - which leads to a twisting/tearing failure.

You can see in the same photo where the reinforcement creates extra room for the joint to pivot without interference.

So, to install; first, tap the ULR into place and insert the factory bolt (it will be tight - make it go where it needs to to get the bolt installed.)












then, take a sharpie or paint pen, or something similar, and mark where the welds will be on the stock link mount, then remove the ULR.







then, remove the paint from those areas with whatever tool you're comfortable with, to prepare for welding.

now cut out this portion so that the big joints have room to move freely:



reinstall the ULR (I advise spraying the inside of the ULR with weld-through primer first, so that is has some corrosion protection), and clamp it front-to-back so that the rear face is tight against the stock mount.



- you'll know that it's tight when the "e" logo is centered in the factory hole:

(not tight)


(good to go)


tack the back at the base, then clamp the sides so that the flanges are tight to the original mount:



great; now weld it.

finish it up by positioning and welding in the supplied corner reinforcement (the little triangle) and paint it, and you're good to go!