Quote:
Originally Posted by atalarico
Ok, I mean I get that the location specifics and using a hi-lift, but do you guys seriously carry every single tool needed?
There’s the huge axle nut socket, handful of other sockets, a torch for me to ever hope to get the lbj bolts off, crow bar to get leverage to get it out of the diff, Allen wrench to loosen and tighten the sway bar link, diff fluid to refill what you lose, one of those seals that goes against the hub, loctite, and a torque wrench to make sure shit doesn’t fall off on your way home. I’m sure I’m forgetting things too.
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First, I've never done it on the trails. That being said, with the exception of my breaker bar, torque wrench and "special tool" to help tap out the axle, and of course the axle itself, I can bring everything needed in my tool bag which is probably 12x12X10. The other stuff can easily fit in my drawers or my OEM storage compartment in the trunk.
As for the seals, the new/replacement axle usually has the outer seal already on it, so you don't need to worry about that. If you need to salvage a seal for some reason, then be careful and replace it when you're back in the comfort of your driveway. If you want to, carry an extra bottle of diff fluid, or, since you can now get off the trails, limp your way off the trail to an advanced auto and top it off.
Just my opinion, and the way I see things if I ever have to deal with a broken axle.
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'15 Mag Gray LE -- TOTALED 
| '14 TE wheels - dipped black, Falken AT3W 285/70/17 | SPC Adjustable UCAs | Daystar 2.5/1.5 top spacer lift | RCI Fuel Tank Skid (Steel) | Shrockworks Step Sliders (trimmed LE Rocker Trim) | SR5 front end conversion
'08 BP Urban Runner -- 5100 fronts at .85 with Toytec 620# springs | SPC Adjustable UCAs | Plastics Guy Front Bump Stops | ICON VS 2.0 Rear with Toytec Superflex 2 inch springs | RCI Transition, Front and Transmission Steel Skid | LT275/65/18 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W | 1.25 inch wheels spacers
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