Quote:
Originally Posted by ztphillips93
HA! yeah I noticed that. So a quick update, Got the AC compressor off and out of the way, got the bracket off and had easy access to the rear tensioner bolt. HOWEVER, the bolt is TOO tight and TOO stripped for removal. I re tried my bolt extractor, used strong vise grips, nothing.. just kept stripping it more. My plan now is to dremmel the head of the bolt off that way the tensioner will come off, that will leave me with about 1" - 1 1/2" of threads to grab onto with some vise grips and hopefully get out. My 3rd day on this timing project and no kidding have spend 24 hours dealing with a dang bolt. hope to get it off tomorrow. will keep yall updated. thanks!
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Do you have a torch? Heat is needed! You're plan of grinding the bolt head off, removing the tensioner and using vicegrips is a solid one. If you have access to an acetylene torch heat the bolt itself until it glows then spray it with PB or other penetrating oil while it cools, then remove it. If you only have propane then heat the aluminum the bolt threads into directly. (steel melts at 2700 degrees, aluminum at 1100, don't ever use an acetylene torch directly on aluminum) The bolts are 8mm-1.25 X around 40 or 50mm. The originals have 12mm heads, the replacements you buy at the hardware store will have 13mm heads.
I have to ask, I get the DIY factor, but is the 3 days of your time you spent on this so far worth more or less than the $500 in labor and parts mark up you would have paid someone like me to do this in 4 hours at a repair shop?
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98 SR5 4X4 5spd, desert dune metallic, Toytech Eibach 3" lift, 1" body lift, RAD Rubber Designs splash guards, 4XInnovations bumpers, Doug Thorely Headers, Magna-flow converter, JBA muffler & tail pipe, RCI skid plate, SPC UCA's & rear LCA's, front sway bar links on rear, gen II rear links on front, Tundra brakes, '02 headlights, tail lights & sidemarkers, BFG 255/85R16 Mud Terrain T/A's 241,000 miles.
